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      02-02-2014, 10:42 PM   #23
White 13
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Originally Posted by Billj747 View Post
Not really that surprised given stock camber. Insides of the tire had virtually no wear. Really need camber on the front of heavy strut cars.
What do you suggest for F Street AutoX? 1.5* seems to be about the max.
Thanks.
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      02-03-2014, 03:37 AM   #24
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PSS FTW
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      02-03-2014, 07:16 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by White 13 View Post
What do you suggest for F Street AutoX? 1.5* seems to be about the max.
Thanks.
BFG Rivals...275/35-18 all around on (of course) stock width wheels (make sure you stay within offset change rules if you go with a different 18" wheel). The Rivals are fantastic tires, especially on a heavy car where they really shine compared to the only other two competitors (ZII, RS3).
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      02-03-2014, 07:54 AM   #26
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What do you suggest for F Street AutoX? 1.5* seems to be about the max.
Thanks.
The max for what? Id probably go with a 275 square setup and run a minimum of -1.5* up front. Measuring your tire temps with a probe type pyrometer will tell you where your camber and tire pressures need to be. While more camber can cause more inside wear, running zero toe up front will reduce that wear and prevent you from destroying a set of tires in a day. Also if your car is under steering and you crank even more steering input, tire degradation will go downhill in a hurry.

I'm not familiar with AutoX but it seems like cars need more camber than road racing. I know a lot of people so daily drive 3*+ of front camber.
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      02-03-2014, 08:04 AM   #27
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You can't do any modifications in F-street stock class other than shocks and one of the sway bars (essentially), so you are left with the max negative camber you can get up front with the pins out -- which is in the range of -1.5. If the stock setup would allow it, -3.0 or so would be MUCH preferred, but we're stuck with the rules...
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      02-03-2014, 09:57 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSBM5 View Post
You can't do any modifications in F-street stock class other than shocks and one of the sway bars (essentially), so you are left with the max negative camber you can get up front with the pins out -- which is in the range of -1.5. If the stock setup would allow it, -3.0 or so would be MUCH preferred, but we're stuck with the rules...
Then -1.5 with a big front bar would greatly help. And brake out the dremel and oval those holes a little more.
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