100k on my stock rotors

[MMM3PWR]

Just hit 100k in my 08 sedan. Rotors still look like I may get another 25k outa them. Is this safe? Original clutch as well. Any other 100k things I should look for?

[lsmkr01]

Originally Posted by MMM3PWR

Just hit 100k in my 08 sedan. Rotors still look like I may get another 25k outa them. Is this safe? Original clutch as well. Any other 100k things I should look for?

Thats crazy! You bought the car new to ensure they are original? With BMW you generally replace the rotors every time you replace your pads. As far as clutch goes that really depends on your driving style. 100k on a clutch is common for a competent manual driver that doesn't beat up his car and launch it every chance he gets.

[SflBimmer8484]

Originally Posted by MMM3PWR

Just hit 100k in my 08 sedan. Rotors still look like I may get another 25k outa them. Is this safe? Original clutch as well. Any other 100k things I should look for?

[Richbot]

What was the rotor thickness at your last pad replacement?

[Longboarder]

Wow...impressive. You must drive very carefully.

My OEM rotors lasted only 2,500 miles...but repeatedly slamming on brakes at 160+ mph will do that. lol

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by lsmkr01

Thats crazy! You bought the car new to ensure they are original? With BMW you generally replace the rotors every time you replace your pads. As far as clutch goes that really depends on your driving style. 100k on a clutch is common for a competent manual driver that doesn't beat up his car and launch it every chance he gets.

You don't have to replace your rotors on every pad change. It all depends on the thickness of the rotor. I measured mine recently with over 60k miles on them and they are not even half way to the minimum thickness spec. I'm due for a pad change soon and I'll probably keep the rotors until the next pad change because it looks like there is a lot more life in them.

[lsmkr01]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

You don't have to replace your rotors on every pad change. It all depends on the thickness of the rotor. I measured mine recently with over 60k miles on them and they are not even half way to the minimum thickness spec. I'm due for a pad change soon and I'll probably keep the rotors until the next pad change because it looks like there is a lot more life in them.

That's good to know. My car is under full warranty until Aug 2014 but I will keep that in mind for when the bill will be addressed to me.

[surlynkid]

Originally Posted by lsmkr01

With BMW you generally replace the rotors every time you replace your pads. .

wrong. you don't replace rotors unless they are below minimum thickness. dealers have even moved away from turning them unless the runout is excessive or you have grooved them from not replacing pads in time. if you replace your pads before they cut the rotors and don't run agressive pad material, rotors can easily last 100K miles. turning your rotors for no reason just takes 5 thousandths off each side.

[lsmkr01]

Originally Posted by surlynkid

wrong. you don't replace rotors unless they are below minimum thickness. dealers have even moved away from turning them unless the run out is excessive or you have grooved them from not replacing pads in time. if you replace your pads before they cut the rotors and don't run aggressive pad material, rotors can easily last 100K miles. turning your rotors for no reason just takes 5 thousandths off each side.

Yeah man, I acknowledged I was mistaken in the post above yours. Learn something new everyday so thanks for the information. You have any pictures with the Varis diffuser on your car? It looks incredible but that price only makes sense if its a track car and actually gets put to use. With that said i'd take one in a second I the play money was available

[happos2]

How do you properly measure the thickness of the rotors?

[lsmkr01]

Originally Posted by happos2

How do you properly measure the thickness of the rotors?

Calipers are the easiest way. Digital ones are very accurate and not that expensive so its nice to invest in a pair for your tool box.

[happos2]

Originally Posted by lsmkr01

Calipers are the easiest way. Digital ones are very accurate and not that expensive so its nice to invest in a pair for your tool box.

Sorry, I meant what points to you measure across? Metal front to Metal back? If there is a lip, I don't see you measure it as you calipers would touch the lip and that is the measurement you would read... I must be missing something!!!

[lsmkr01]

Originally Posted by happos2

Sorry, I meant what points to you measure across? Metal front to Metal back? If there is a lip, I don't see you measure it as you calipers would touch the lip and that is the measurement you would read... I must be missing something!!!

The lip in the original thickness. You use the bottom of the caliper (little nub [far left in the image below] that sticks out as you open the calipers) to measure the depth between the lip and the new face. You can subtract that depth from the the original thickness.

[1MOREMOD]

i use a fulmer pointer style so you can measure anywhere on the face of the rotor and avoid just measuring the lip which is usually thicker.

[surlynkid]

Originally Posted by happos2

How do you properly measure the thickness of the rotors?

Mitutoyo is your friend. Good calipers. If you cannot read calipers, go digital.

Must measure at thinnest spot, so look for any groove anywhere on the face and measure there. When they turn it, they will keep making passes until they get that groove out. And remember that every .001" taken off one side is also taken off the other side, so you just because you put a groove in one side does not mean only that side gets turned. Both sides get turned the exact same amount. A little math on that groove versus the full thickness will tell if you can turn them and still be above minimum thickness.

[surlynkid]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

i use a fulmer pointer style so you can measure anywhere on the face of the rotor and avoid just measuring the lip which is usually thicker.

use this style, not the style in the post with the pictures.

[surlynkid]

Originally Posted by happos2

Sorry, I meant what points to you measure across? Metal front to Metal back? If there is a lip, I don't see you measure it as you calipers would touch the lip and that is the measurement you would read... I must be missing something!!!

they will turn the lip off, so you must measure on the worn faces. use the ones with pointed tips as mentiond by 1MoreMod

[happos2]

Good deal. Thanks for the help. Reading / using calipers is no problem.

[surlynkid]

Originally Posted by lsmkr01

You have any pictures with the Varis diffuser on your car? It looks incredible but that price only makes sense if its a track car and actually gets put to use. With that said i'd take one in a second I the play money was available

I need to wash the car and take some pics. I installed it two weeks ago, but then had to remove it and reinstall it last weekend as they did not give me all the correct fasteners the first time, and the directions were wrong. Now it is all set. It is headed to the track this weekend, so it is used. I do not have the aesthetic only upper skirt. I only have the functional big lower diffuser. There are pictures on the forum of one on an AW car with no skirt, but it has Ti AKRA tips. I have CF AKRA tips which contrasts nicely. The Yen has gotten weak. Now is the time to buy.

[1MOREMOD]

i have one similar to this.

[happos2]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

i have one similar to this.

That is ideal. I have the standard looking calipers. I could invest in a new set, been wanting one for a while...

[smmmurf]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

Wow...impressive. You must drive very carefully.

My OEM rotors lasted only 2,500 miles...but repeatedly slamming on brakes at 160+ mph will do that. lol

Wow, this has to be some kind of record