Whos running Mobil 1 0w-40?

[e92zero]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Your radiator and cooler are probably getting quite a few bent fins and bugs/debris caught in them at this mileage, which on cumulative effect can really reduce their efficiency. Good idea to take a fin straightener to any radiator every 50k or so, I'm lazy but need to do this as I've noticed a lot of bugs and bent fins behind the lower grille opening in both the oil cooler and radiator. Unfortunately you really need to pull the bumper cover to do a good job. Not saying that's an issue, but it could be one reason for the change you've noticed

Thanks for the idea. I actually checked the fan is working perfectly fine and the coolant temp didn't really went up noticeably even if it did. I will double check the radiator and oil cooler just to make sure.

[W///]

Originally Posted by e92zero

Thanks. I checked the coolant level just the other day, it's right at the top so there is no leak. I don't think my radiator is block because the coolant temp never went pass the 210 mark on my water temp gauge and it move up and down between 170 to maybe 205 during my drive pretty much same as it has been since the day I put the gauge on so that part didn't change.

I know what you mean how the 0-40 runs cooler. I definitely agree and that has been the case for me as well up until the last few thousand miles. I don't think it's the 0-40 fault at all. My car is an early 2011 and I have seen this year model seem to have a higher number of rod bearing problems as the 2008 based on that small statistic pool. Something has definitely changed in my engine the last 5-7k miles. Maybe it's psychological but the engine sounds rougher too. I would like to find out what it is. I like to work on my car anyway so it's fun for me to take it apart. Maybe the bearing will be perfectly fine but at ~90k, I figure it will be good insurance to check. I will definitely report back what I find.

Well it certainly sounds like you've done your homework and know what you are talking about. If I were in your shoes, I'd do rod bearings too then.

[kawasaki00]

You sure there is not air in the system from when you changed the coolant? The only way it is possible for the oil temperature to be up is if the water temp is up also. If there is air in the system it can fool the thermostat and make the engine run hotter yet telling the gauge it is normal. Remember steam is colder than the liquid, thats what tricks the gauge. Just a thought.

Originally Posted by e92zero

Thanks. I checked the coolant level just the other day, it's right at the top so there is no leak. I don't think my radiator is block because the coolant temp never went pass the 210 mark on my water temp gauge and it move up and down between 170 to maybe 205 during my drive pretty much same as it has been since the day I put the gauge on so that part didn't change.

I know what you mean how the 0-40 runs cooler. I definitely agree and that has been the case for me as well up until the last few thousand miles. I don't think it's the 0-40 fault at all. My car is an early 2011 and I have seen this year model seem to have a higher number of rod bearing problems as the 2008 based on that small statistic pool. Something has definitely changed in my engine the last 5-7k miles. Maybe it's psychological but the engine sounds rougher too. I would like to find out what it is. I like to work on my car anyway so it's fun for me to take it apart. Maybe the bearing will be perfectly fine but at ~90k, I figure it will be good insurance to check. I will definitely report back what I find.

[e92zero]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

You sure there is not air in the system from when you changed the coolant? The only way it is possible for the oil temperature to be up is if the water temp is up also. If there is air in the system it can fool the thermostat and make the engine run hotter yet telling the gauge it is normal. Remember steam is colder than the liquid, thats what tricks the gauge. Just a thought.

Thanks. I am pretty sure there is no air in the system. I am confident I bled it pretty well. It's been 24k miles since I changed the coolant. I checked the coolant multiple times during this period and the coolant level never dropped. I only noticed the oil temp running higher in the last 5-7k miles. Most noticeable going up hill under load. I am not saying my water temp didn't went up at all when the oil temp goes up. It might very well have but it's not as noticeable and out of the norm for me to notice. Water temp usually hovers around 180-190 on my drive. When I see the oil temp getting 'hot', the water temp is usually around 205. I have seen the water temp getting up there just sitting in traffic so that's why I wasn't too concern about the water temp. My water temp never went over the 210 mark. It's the recent shift in my oil temp reading along with the low oil vis report together with the roughness of the engine and the drop of the oil pressure that spooked me. I can't think of anything else that would cause all these symptoms to show up in the last 5-7 miles.

I did a quick eyeball check on the radiators fins this morning and they all look good. I will take a closer look at them this weekend to make sure. Car still drives fine over all, just a bit louder/rougher than before so I don't think it's going to grenade on me in the next few hundred miles. Fingers crossed. I will do another oil change over Thanksgiving so will see what that report shows. I'll keep you guys posted.

[Killerfish2012]

Ok, so ambient temps around here have been averaging 19-33F. In May I put in Total 10W-50 for the track season. With this oil, at these temps, the engine behavior is radically different. Thank goodness I can start the motor in the morning without hearing any initial metal on metal grinding. So a 10W oil is pumpable at these temps, but the warm up is very slow, and there is like no power until 210F. Kind of hard to describe, it's like there's glue in the engine. When you get off the gas your speed drops really fast. I was going to wait till December to change this oil, at like 7-8K miles, but with this type of behavior I'm worried about damaging the engine, so Mobil 1 0W40 is going in tomorrow. I would love to use this oil year round because I have prior experience with this oil in my 335I which I also had to cold crank in temps well below 0F. At this temp BMW's recommended 5W30 had some initial metal on metal grinding, which M1 0W40 didn't. I would love to run this oil year round in the M3, since it's my daily/track car, and I have to start up in temps well below 0F, but I'm just still a bit worried about how M1 will hold up once track season comes. There still is no hard track data with this oil, at my preferred oil change interval of 8K miles, and the track guys can't be paid to touch this stuff, which sez a lot. I just am now convinced that BMW had the wrong oil weight for the S65, especially in cold temps, which they probably never tested. Running castrol 10W60, with winter temps ranging from -30 to 30F just doesn't even sound possible, let alone make sense.

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Ok, so ambient temps around here have been averaging 19-33F. In May I put in Total 10W-50 for the track season. With this oil, at these temps, the engine behavior is radically different. Thank goodness I can start the motor in the morning without hearing any initial metal on metal grinding. So a 10W oil is pumpable at these temps, but the warm up is very slow, and there is like no power until 210F. Kind of hard to describe, it's like there's glue in the engine. When you get off the gas your speed drops really fast. I was going to wait till December to change this oil, at like 7-8K miles, but with this type of behavior I'm worried about damaging the engine, so Mobil 1 0W40 is going in tomorrow. I would love to use this oil year round because I have prior experience with this oil in my 335I which I also had to cold crank in temps well below 0F. At this temp BMW's recommended 5W30 had some initial metal on metal grinding, which M1 0W40 didn't. I would love to run this oil year round in the M3, since it's my daily/track car, and I have to start up in temps well below 0F, but I'm just still a bit worried about how M1 will hold up once track season comes. There still is no hard track data with this oil, at my preferred oil change interval of 8K miles, and the track guys can't be paid to touch this stuff, which sez a lot. I just am now convinced that BMW had the wrong oil weight for the S65, especially in cold temps, which they probably never tested. Running castrol 10W60, with winter temps ranging from -30 to 30F just doesn't even sound possible, let alone make sense.

If it will make you feel a little more fluffy run a mix of 5qt 0-40 and 4qt 15-50 at the track. There is a monster supercharged car that has been running this mix at airstrip events for a long time and no issues. You can easily figure out who it is but that is all the info I can give.

[dereksM3]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

If it will make you feel a little more fluffy run a mix of 5qt 0-40 and 4qt 15-50 at the track. There is a monster supercharged car that has been running this mix at airstrip events for a long time and no issues. You can easily figure out who it is but that is all the info I can give.

Interesting...I think I know just who you are referring too.

[W///]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Ok, so ambient temps around here have been averaging 19-33F. In May I put in Total 10W-50 for the track season. With this oil, at these temps, the engine behavior is radically different. Thank goodness I can start the motor in the morning without hearing any initial metal on metal grinding. So a 10W oil is pumpable at these temps, but the warm up is very slow, and there is like no power until 210F. Kind of hard to describe, it's like there's glue in the engine. When you get off the gas your speed drops really fast. I was going to wait till December to change this oil, at like 7-8K miles, but with this type of behavior I'm worried about damaging the engine, so Mobil 1 0W40 is going in tomorrow. I would love to use this oil year round because I have prior experience with this oil in my 335I which I also had to cold crank in temps well below 0F. At this temp BMW's recommended 5W30 had some initial metal on metal grinding, which M1 0W40 didn't. I would love to run this oil year round in the M3, since it's my daily/track car, and I have to start up in temps well below 0F, but I'm just still a bit worried about how M1 will hold up once track season comes. There still is no hard track data with this oil, at my preferred oil change interval of 8K miles, and the track guys can't be paid to touch this stuff, which sez a lot. I just am now convinced that BMW had the wrong oil weight for the S65, especially in cold temps, which they probably never tested. Running castrol 10W60, with winter temps ranging from -30 to 30F just doesn't even sound possible, let alone make sense.

There are guys to that run 0W40 at the track. Hell I did one interval (5k), with one track day in pretty hot weather, and probably 3-4 mountains, and my Blackstone came back fine. Heck there are even supercharged guys running straight 0W40.

It was high 30F this morning in South Carolina. Even with 0W40, it takes what seems like forever for the oil to warm up. Absolutely glad I'm not running thicker oil.

[e92zero]

I think in colder climate, the 0-40 is great for this engine. Your engine will be much livelier. However, I would be hesitant with the 8k change interval with it. Everyone use is different. I would recommend giving it a try and then doing oil change at 5k and have a BS analysis to see where your vis, tan, tbn are. Readjust your interval the next time around to determine a good change interval for your use.

[Killerfish2012]

Thanks guys for all the helpful responses so far.

[whats77inaname]

Originally Posted by BrewRifle

So the verdict is still out on whether or not M1 0W40 is the right oil for our cars?

Any recommendations for a supercharged car in a warm climate where the lowest it gets is 35 degrees Fahrenheit?

Shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitttttttttttttt, it's going to be colder than that this weekend, player *lol* Are you DDing the M?

[BrewRifle]

I spoke too soon haha. I think it actually hit 24 the other night, which is crazy for Austin. I'm a huge fan of the cold though (why I live in Texas, I have no idea...)

[thekurgan]

Originally Posted by W///

There are guys to that run 0W40 at the track. Hell I did one interval (5k), with one track day in pretty hot weather, and probably 3-4 mountains, and my Blackstone came back fine. Heck there are even supercharged guys running straight 0W40.

It was high 30F this morning in South Carolina. Even with 0W40, it takes what seems like forever for the oil to warm up. Absolutely glad I'm not running thicker oil.

I think, no matter the weight, there is a LOT of oil to heat up at 30F. Wow, It seems the Carolinas are getting colder and colder each winter.

[Gumulri]

Originally Posted by e92zero

I thought of that but it doesn't explain the low viscosity and that my engine running hotter even when the weather started cooling down the last few months though. Now that the weather really cooled down, I still see my engine hitting 210 which never happened before. I also don't like how my engine sounds after long drives now, engine sounds rough. Not sure how to really describe this roughness.

I like working on my car anyway and I will be doing the rod bearing change myself. It will be ~88k by Christmas when I get to it. I figure it will be good insurance to see and check where my bearings are. I'll just think of it as a timing belt change I have done on other cars before. No biggie.

+1
that's why I did not like m1 0-40. I was just like your situation with m1.
now I am happy with tws.

[Killerfish2012]

Put in M1 0W40 yesterday, and the engine is much much livelier, and 1 cold start so far seemed ok. Will get down to near single digit (F) starts all this week. Should be smooth start ups.

[W///]

Originally Posted by Gumulri

+1
that's why I did not like m1 0-40. I was just like your situation with m1.
now I am happy with tws.

Not sure what that means? So did you have lower oil pressure as the oil got older?

[W///]

Originally Posted by thekurgan

I think, no matter the weight, there is a LOT of oil to heat up at 30F. Wow, It seems the Carolinas are getting colder and colder each winter.

Yea it was around 28F last night. But you are right though, the engine has got to try to warm up 9 quarts of oil, so it takes some doing for sure. Especially on commutes where you have to jump straight on the highway.

[Gumulri]

Originally Posted by W///

Not sure what that means? So did you have lower oil pressure as the oil got older?

yes, it did and remember I got too much consumption with m1.
I am not saying m1 is not good for our m3. I am just not happy with it.

[e92zero]

I didn't have any extra oil consumption at 5k with m1 compare to 7.5k with tws. At least oil level on the lovely electronic sensor didn't drop any. Always at full through out the oil change interval.

[MFKN3]

What are thoughts on mixing 0/10w40 with TWS?

[kawasaki00]

Originally Posted by MFKN3

What are thoughts on mixing 0/10w40 with TWS?

IMHO I wouldnt, different base stock.
Mix 0-40 with 15-50 if wanting thicker.

[Killerfish2012]

Started up and drove the M3 in 11F ambient weather this morning. Smooth as butter, with a lively response. I think I'll stick to M1 0W40 for now all year round, and just go with 5-6K oil change intervals. Again, I can't even imagine what it would be like to start up and drive with 10W 60 in these conditions. IMHO the oil weight recommendation from the factory should have been at least 5W 50 to accommodate those living in cold climates. The Total 10W 50 that was drained from my car looked fine at 6,700 miles. The color wasn't black, but brown, and it looked thick draining from the car.