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01-04-2021, 05:27 AM | #23 |
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That method of tapping power doesnt look too pretty, you can take out the junction box and physically take it apart and inspect the board to see if its damaged. Its like 4 T20's, youll need 1/4 tools and maybe a ball swivel to get to the top left screw cause its burried in there.
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01-04-2021, 11:58 AM | #24 | |
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I'll clean the fuse box with electro flush as well and see what happens. I live in SF, so sunny warm days are like winning the lottery, it has been drizzling or raining here almost daily.... Although this has never happened otherwise in the rain, I'm definitely exploring this, thank you. Reprogramming the CAS/FRM may be difficult since the scanner, not DCAN cable can communicate with them (receive errors). Seems like a hardware issue. Is it possible to turn off the immobilizer without access to the OBD Port? |
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01-04-2021, 12:00 PM | #25 | |
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I've taken the JBB apart... Here are some photos. What am I looking for in terms of problems? |
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01-04-2021, 02:59 PM | #26 | |
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01-04-2021, 04:38 PM | #28 |
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Before I snip that kinked wire to soldier it back together to assure that it is not severed... Is there a way to test whether it is not severed after all?
If the power wire to the JBB was severed, would the engine have started? Is it okay to turn on the ignition to while the JBB is removed to get a reading off that wire? Or should I just assume that wire is severed and soldier it back together regardless? |
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01-05-2021, 01:43 AM | #29 |
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with no OBD reading its very hard to cnc the error.
1- I would stick a needle in the blue locations to see if the power is the same (using a voltmeter, negative cable to the ground and positive to the needle) a needle would not ruin the cable. I would not soldier the cable, rather put a new pin if i was in ur situation. 2- Yes you can remove the IBS cable (to see if thats the issue) and the car should start. just google IBSD cable e92 to see how to remove it. 3- What Amraz is referring to is the actual fuse box where it will be hard to remove the top left screw but its doable. Some relays are built into the fuse box and they might be dead (had an issue with the secondary air pump relay which is built in the fuse box before) 4- I would have checked all the fuses (Fuse 30 is the can control fuse) and please check the main R9 relay for terminal 15. (if you have another bmw use the relay from that car just to check if it resolves the issue) https://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-bo...bmw-3-e90.html Thats the information on top of my head, hope it helps!
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01-05-2021, 03:13 PM | #30 |
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Thank you for that info.
Okay, I verified that the power wire to the JBB is not severed after all... I have solid continuity between those to blue lines you drew in, as well as all the way down at the corresponding pin of that connector. I left the battery on a charger/maintainer all night, it was finally fully charged today. Tried starting with the IBS connected and disconnected, still just cranks, but no start. WTF. Is the R9 Terminal Fuse located behind the fuse box? Do I have to remove the fuse box to get to it? Last edited by SilverSlug; 01-05-2021 at 05:53 PM.. |
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03-08-2021, 04:47 PM | #31 |
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She starts!
Finally after several months of dealing with this issue, I tried swapping another JBB in there and managed to get it coded… My baby finally starts, although the engine does right away after starting. I can now actually read the codes too… throwing up CDA0, CDA8 and D904 Any idea of what this could be?? |
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03-09-2021, 09:05 AM | #32 |
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Guess you have one but leaving this here: https://bmwfault.codes/
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03-09-2021, 09:11 AM | #33 |
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Now that you have power and OBD functionality, I would use ISTA to do a deeper dive into the errors.
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03-11-2021, 01:10 PM | #34 |
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Ok, so took it to my buddy's shop, who dove into it deeper with ISTA, and he said he is 100% certain that it needs a new CAS module.
A new CAS comes with two new keys, and it comes coded to the VIN/car directly from the dealership. Hopefully this has fixed my issue. I'll update the thread of it is in case anyone else experiences this down the road. |
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03-14-2021, 12:13 PM | #35 | |
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03-15-2021, 12:10 PM | #36 | ||
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03-15-2021, 06:37 PM | #37 | |
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Please report back. When I was going to take my car to dealer for Foot well module I was told I would loose my tune. I wonder if that's the case with this.
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03-15-2021, 11:04 PM | #38 |
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Ok will do.
What type of tune do you have? I have a Dinan tune, but also have the OBD cable from Dinan, so I can just put the tune right back on if it gets wiped out with the CAS programming. |
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03-15-2021, 11:06 PM | #39 |
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Also, was your FRM covered under the extended warranty?
I spoke to BMW dealership tech advisor, who looked up my VIN, and said I have until end of June to potentially get the FRM fixed under the extended warranty (mine is a 2011). It was extended to 10yrs and 120k miles (I believe, could it have been 150k miles). |
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03-16-2021, 07:02 PM | #40 |
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I have a custom tune. I am SC'ed but I had a tuner start from scratch. My keys are starting to act stupid. I will try a new key first.
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03-16-2021, 07:04 PM | #41 | |
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11-21-2022, 08:27 AM | #43 |
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SilverSlug Not to revive an old thread for no reason, but did you ever get this issue fixed?
I'm sending my car in for the positive wire recall today as part of my troubleshooting. Went to drive the car on Saturday and got a whole bunch of errors pop up (ABS, start-off assist, DSC, service, CEL, cruise control, brake, and my wipers don't shut off). Cleared codes and pulled the wiper relay and didn't get any issue when I restarted the car, but my AWRON that taps into the JBE (JBB in your thread) doesn't power on. I wonder if mine is fried and needs to be replaced?
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