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      07-18-2013, 10:02 PM   #309
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Wow, this thread has been going for five years and 306 posts. All for changing oil. Amusing, in many ways. Also, thanks, in many ways
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      08-24-2013, 10:37 AM   #310
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So are the drain plugs t40 or 6mm hex?

Tried to change mine but dealer over torqued it.
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      08-24-2013, 10:57 AM   #311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxed View Post
So are the drain plugs t40 or 6mm hex?

Tried to change mine but dealer over torqued it.
Dude, look two posts up. Its all laid out for you.
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      09-15-2013, 02:08 PM   #312
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I changed mine a few hours ago and I too agree, this is one of the easiest vehicles to change the oil in next to my wife's MDX (only because you don't have to jack it up). Of course you need the correct tools and information which is what I found confusing. The tools required are simple but the info seems to go all over. What I found is the drain plugs are 12x1.5 (thread size) and use a 6mm allen to remove them. I have attached a pic of mine; what may be confusing some people is the rounded corners to ensure the allen fully seats to help prevent stripping. A T40 fits too but it really looks like the allen is correct since the allen fully seats and the T40 does not. The corners are rounded similar to SnapOn flank drive sockets. The torque value is 25nm, not 18 as some have posted.
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      09-15-2013, 03:45 PM   #313
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^^^Great pic, I can see why some may think torx.
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      09-18-2013, 01:39 PM   #314
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so the oil kit used to be $110 and somehow it is now $160?!
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      09-19-2013, 08:29 PM   #315
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Changed my oil the other day . Let the oil drain for 3 hours as i was working on my brakes and some other things, filled the engine with all 9 bottles and after driving for 10 minutes, car is telling me its 3/4 full.
WTF? Should i put in some more oil or not? I like when its full, not less, especially when i take it to the track and drive like a mad man.
Thoughts?
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      09-19-2013, 08:37 PM   #316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
Changed my oil the other day . Let the oil drain for 3 hours as i was working on my brakes and some other things, filled the engine with all 9 bottles and after driving for 10 minutes, car is telling me its 3/4 full.
WTF? Should i put in some more oil or not? I like when its full, not less, especially when i take it to the track and drive like a mad man.
Thoughts?
No, I'd give it a few days. System is slow to regulate.
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      09-20-2013, 10:11 AM   #317
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Ok thanks. This happened once before and after adding 1/4 of a bottle it still showed 3/4 full. Then i added a little more and system was showing too much of oil
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      09-20-2013, 12:15 PM   #318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
Ok thanks. This happened once before and after adding 1/4 of a bottle it still showed 3/4 full. Then i added a little more and system was showing too much of oil
That's not 3/4 of total capacity of course. The indicator acts like the dots on a dipstick. Being anywhere within the range in fine. 3/4 is great. 1/4 is technically fine. As long as it' doesn't say "+1L" (add 1 liter) or ">MAX" (overfill) you're fine.
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      10-22-2013, 10:45 PM   #319
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I am going to do my first oil change. The only problem I see is lifting and leveling the car. I'll build a 3-Piece detachable ramp this weekend. What do you guys think?

BTW the total cost should be around $100 if you have the tools.
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      10-23-2013, 10:19 AM   #320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3AG View Post
I am going to do my first oil change. The only problem I see is lifting and leveling the car. I'll build a 3-Piece detachable ramp this weekend. What do you guys think?

BTW the total cost should be around $100 if you have the tools.
Looks like a lot of effort, risky and large to store. Why not just invest in ramps/jack & jackstands, ala post #15?
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      10-23-2013, 12:09 PM   #321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon View Post
Looks like a lot of effort, risky and large to store. Why not just invest in ramps/jack & jackstands, ala post #15?
I have a large shed so storage is not an issue for me. Don't like the idea of ramp & jack to level the car. I have a few lumbers (from building the shed) and all the tools. I can always use it for bonfire.
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      10-23-2013, 01:54 PM   #322
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What are you going to build those ramps with? Wood?

I wouldn't feel comfortable crawling underneath your car w/ something you just built. At least w/ store bought jacks and jackstands, the units have a load rating. Your setup would be untested.
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      10-23-2013, 08:04 PM   #323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marksae View Post
What are you going to build those ramps with? Wood?

I wouldn't feel comfortable crawling underneath your car w/ something you just built. At least w/ store bought jacks and jackstands, the units have a load rating. Your setup would be untested.
Wood of course (2 x 10 with 3/4" floor plywood). Untested? well maybe not as a car ramp but been used in constructions for sure.

A friend helped with calculations and max load is about 4500lb (Center load) per 7"x 7" and about 8000lb (Uniform load) with sag factor of 0.01 inch. Now that's per wheel! If for any reason the top layer fail to hold the load the lower sub frame can hold up to 20000lb per 7" x 7".
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      10-24-2013, 10:57 AM   #324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3AG View Post
Wood of course (2 x 10 with 3/4" floor plywood). Untested? well maybe not as a car ramp but been used in constructions for sure.

A friend helped with calculations and max load is about 4500lb (Center load) per 7"x 7" and about 8000lb (Uniform load) with sag factor of 0.01 inch. Now that's per wheel! If for any reason the top layer fail to hold the load the lower sub frame can hold up to 20000lb per 7" x 7".
That should work - hopefully you have a lot of storage space. Should add wheel stop blocks at the end.
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      10-24-2013, 10:54 PM   #325
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Last summer I built a large shed so storage is not an issue. I'll add wheel stop blocks for sure.
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      10-29-2013, 05:31 PM   #326
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I just changed my oil today. The E-dipstick registered in the middle. I drained 8.5 quarts out of the two drain holes. I used two 10-quart painters buckets that have marks every quart and liter for mixing -which was very convenient to see how much oil came out.

There was a bit of oil still left in the filter housing that I did not suck out. I added 8 quarts and the computer registered 1 quart low. I added another 1/2 quart and it still registered low. I added 1/2 quart more totaling 9 quarts and now it's registering full.

The oil filter housing (25NM/19lb-ft or 40NM/30lb-ft) - I tightened it to 30lb-ft.
6mm allen drain plug: 10NM/ 7.5lb-ft - my car had twin 6mm allens and I tightened them to 13.5lb-ft since 7.5lb-ft didn't really crush the washer.
8mm allen drain plug: 18NM/13.5lb-ft


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      01-02-2014, 05:28 PM   #327
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Going to do my own oil change this weekend. I have access to a European parts supplier and they stock other brands of 10W-60 as well as Castrol. Has anyone used Liqui Moly Race Tech GT1 or Total Quartz Racing oil instead of the Castrol?
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      01-02-2014, 05:34 PM   #328
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Originally Posted by The Avi View Post
Going to do my own oil change this weekend. I have access to a European parts supplier and they stock other brands of 10W-60 as well as Castrol. Has anyone used Liqui Moly Race Tech GT1 or Total Quartz Racing oil instead of the Castrol?
I use total quartz in my e46 but never did in my e90.
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      01-05-2014, 11:01 AM   #329
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thanks to all for your contributions to this thread, it made the oil change a snap.

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      01-18-2014, 04:49 PM   #330
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Is there a crush washer on the front sump drain bolt?

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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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