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02-20-2017, 03:12 PM | #89 | |
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Unless it was below freezing (in which case I idle for 2-3 min), this is my daily routine. Start, wait for cold cycle to end, drive below 3000 rpm until engine is about 75 C...no romping until 87 C. The metric markings go 50, hashmark (for 75), 100, so halfway between the hashmark and 100. Idling excessively warms the car up slower, and allows unburned fuel to pass by the piston rings and into the sump until they expand with temperature. Fuel in oil = bad. Less lubricity, more frequent oil changes...worst-case scenario, damage from lack of lubrication. Switching to full synthetic helps (I'm running Fuchs). I have also noticed that with normal driving, my engine stays rock-solid about 87ish C...only if I romp on it does it go up, to just under 100 C, and then stay there.
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Last edited by TimberWolf_3063; 02-20-2017 at 06:44 PM.. |
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02-20-2017, 07:22 PM | #90 |
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If you really want to reduce the possibility of fuel bypassing the rings on cold startup when the air is cold, the oil is cold, and the engine is idling....get a tune to remove the "cold start" routine. This adds additional fuel, adds it late in the cycle, retards timing so the peak cylinder pressure occurs well after optimal crank angle, and then advances exhaust valve timing to open very early. This combination provides unburned fuel the chance to enter the exhaust stream and continue combustion further downstream. It is specifically termed "katheizen" (cat heating) by BMW and serves no purpose other than to warm the cats up faster to meet the US mandated cold start emissions requirements for sale of a new model in the US.
This rapid warm up along with higher oil blowby (what's our oil consumption again?) is probably the cause of premature cat failure on the S85 and to a lesser extent the S65. Delete the cold start routine and have the exact fuel mixture needed to run the engine and nothing different than that. |
12-03-2017, 05:35 AM | #91 |
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1. I give 30 seconds of warm up on sub zero Celsius then drive under 2k rpm without too many gear changing and very light throttle (10%-15%), and if I have to, double clutch it into gears since MTs can be quite notchy.
2. Then I gradually raise to 3k rpm max if oil temp gauge starts to move from 50C, and stay there before 90C. 3. Give it 5-10 min for other components to warm up as well with engine at 90~100C, then give it a blast over 4K rpm. I have personally found the engine and the gearbox respond most favorably when driven this way.
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12-03-2017, 03:36 PM | #92 |
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This was a fun opinion filled thread!!
If idling an engine causes wear, then everyone with a command start better get a spare engine on order
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2011 E92 M3 - 6MT, ZCP, ZF LSD, ESS G1, Some other goodies... |
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12-05-2017, 03:43 PM | #93 | |
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Given that, I'm surprised there's no aftermarket oil heater for our M's. Should be standard equipment for those of us who have the cold weather package. WTF.
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12-05-2017, 11:18 PM | #94 |
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Not sure if it has been mentioned, but it’s my understanding that warm up has a lot to do with the expansion of the pistons and other engine components. BC aluminum has a much higher thermal expansion rate than the steel/iron bore, the piston starts out small in the cylinder. This makes the skirt of the piston rock back and forth and the piston to do a figure 8 while traveling through its stroke. This causes massive ware on the piston skirt and cylinder walls until the piston is at its full size. Once the engine is warm and all components are at operating temperature the piston then fits tight into the bore. This can also be observed at the bearings, where the clearances are looser when cold, hence the need for a oil that is thicker when cold to help keep the oil film from collapsing with the added clearance.
Last edited by HerbNRacer; 12-05-2017 at 11:48 PM.. |
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12-05-2017, 11:27 PM | #95 |
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I actually have a Wolverine model 25 on mine working quite well. Super easy install and routing of the cord to just atop the drivers headlight. Leave it on over night and during the day at the office when near or below 32F/0C. Also warms the transmission a good bit.
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12-06-2017, 08:14 AM | #96 | |
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Where do you actually place the heating pad in the vehicle?
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12-06-2017, 11:26 AM | #97 | |
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12-06-2017, 01:26 PM | #98 |
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Ummm ok... I’m sorry but did I miss something here? Or are you really that ignorant? Excuse me for trying to help, obviously it’s not appreciated here...
https://www.carthrottle.com/post/w9678vg/ Please note #2 for reasons to let your engine warm up... |
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12-06-2017, 01:47 PM | #99 | |
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Mine is placed on the front, vertical edge of the back, larger capacity pan. It gets that oil pretty warm and Wolverine has told me it will maintain 100-110F, which I confirmed two weeks ago during an oil change after plugging the heater in for eight hours after the car had cooled overnight. The car makes much less noise when started and reaches operating temperature per the dash 10 minutes sooner. As a side benefit the 6MT is a little smoother from cold too. Id have grabbed pictures, but my wife tossed our camera in the Gulf of California not long ago and we haven't gotten around to replacing it. My IPhone camera is f'd too. I do also track the car, but with the routing of the cord and the zip ties provided there haven't been nor should there be issues with it getting tossed around. Obviously I will check the ties periodically. |
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12-06-2017, 01:56 PM | #100 | |
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12-06-2017, 02:40 PM | #101 |
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That is correct. Pop the hood, lift, pull the cord from its nook above the light(about 8" length available from this point), plug into extension cord, little wrap over the intake snorkel at the back or the fan shroud to keep the plugs out of the elements, bring the hood back down to latched, and good to go.
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12-06-2017, 02:55 PM | #102 | |
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12-07-2017, 01:30 AM | #103 | |
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Don't worry though I received your visitor message as well.
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12-07-2017, 10:15 AM | #104 | |
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(Not that experience speaks for itself, but I have run an auto repair shop for about 15 years and built 100+ engines. I’m not just talking out my ass.) Last edited by HerbNRacer; 12-07-2017 at 10:21 AM.. |
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12-07-2017, 10:35 AM | #105 | |
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12-07-2017, 10:41 AM | #106 |
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12-07-2017, 10:47 AM | #107 | |
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What else?
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12-07-2017, 11:33 AM | #108 |
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12-07-2017, 11:56 AM | #109 |
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I had to take a peak. LMAO
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12-07-2017, 06:39 PM | #110 | |
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Canadians are are to familiar with "plugging" in our cars. Pan heaters are pretty common devices that last forever and just work. Easy to install and if sized properly, will warm up the oil for ya!! There are also inline coolant warmers that circulate and heat the engine quite well. Not sure if any are made for the M3 though...
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