Need new Battery, where to get

[dogears]

So, my car is warning me of low battery. Clock needs resetting, etc etc. A couple different messages actually. One is something about a discharge too. Terminals are tight. Not the cables I think. I just installed the Earthquake subs and the message came the day of the work, but before installation. How is that for coincidence? Although, when I flashed the ECU a month ago with the Powerchip CMD tool, the software warned of low battery. So, pretty sure it is the battery reaching the low voltage threshold. Car starts fine btw.

The car is two years old and has 10K on it. Based on comments, the dealer may deny the warranty claim due to such light useage. I work about 3/4 of a mile from home! Car doesn't even warm up by the time I park.

So, what'll it be if I have to pay.... Stock BMW replacement or an Optima? What do you guys suggest? Where to buy to, if BMW. I won't let the dealership charge me retail. Like 300 bucks. I figure 200 is more reasonable.

I am not interested in one of the light batteries with less juice. I want the 900cca

Thanks!!

[Trier Germany]

Get a BOSCH battery they run about 135 euro here in Germany look identical to OEM. I am gonna go with the Mini cooper/BMW CSL battery next

[cloud8r]

Just go to autozone.com and look up the equivalent battery, should cost you well less than $200 for a more powerful and lighter battery.

[UKtRAINE3]

Not sure how true this is as I have never replaced the battery in a E9x but you may want to look into it before replacing your battery.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468750

[Aussie7]

I had the same thing happen to me. My battery started dying at 10,000miles and I took it into my dealership. They pulled the bullshit that I don't drive long enough distances for the battery to charge. I drive about 500 miles am month and my car is my daily driver. They said I need to drive more freeway miles, since my work is only 5 miles from home on local streets. In the end I decided to go with an OEM BMW battery as they explained that all the computer needs to be programmed when you put in a new battery. Cost me $600 and it stills leaves a bad taste in my mouth. I now have a $50 trickle charger which I put on the car once a month to fully charge the battery.

[JCtx]

Originally Posted by Aussie7

In the end I decided to go with an OEM BMW battery as they explained that all the computer needs to be programmed when you put in a new battery. Cost me $600 and it stills leaves a bad taste in my mouth.

Damn, their scare tactics worked with you. All you have to do is 'initialize' the 'auto' feature on windows and sunroof for what I've read.

When it's time for a new battery I'll go with an Interstate from Sam's. WalMart has a nice one too.

[saeedg48]

I need a new battery for my key and the dealer charges $12...walmart here I come.

[Aussie7]

I was screwed I had my car at the dealer on a Saturday and it was dead so my options were limited. Don't worry I called BMW USA on the Monday and let them have an ear full. They didn't refund the money but I got a full as they call it "VIP" detail. If it happened on Monday I would have called around and got other opinions. It was an expensive replacement of something that shouldn't die in 20 months with only 10,000 miles on the car. But I guess it's a $60k car and I wasn't going to be too cheap about something you need in the car everyday. Sort of like worrying about gas mileage in an M3. You don't by a $60k+ car if you are going to worry about things like that.

Originally Posted by elp_jc

Damn, their scare tactics worked with you. All you have to do is 'initialize' the 'auto' feature on windows and sunroof for what I've read.

When it's time for a new battery I'll go with an Interstate from Sam's. WalMart has a nice one too.

[thread killer]

Originally Posted by elp_jc

Damn, their scare tactics worked with you. All you have to do is 'initialize' the 'auto' feature on windows and sunroof for what I've read.

When it's time for a new battery I'll go with an Interstate from Sam's. WalMart has a nice one too.

unfortunately you are incorrect on this part.

gotta pay to play here folks.

aussie7, your short driving habits is what kills your battery, plain and simple.

[BillK]

How much was this battery? I've learned from experience on other bmw models that the oem battery is just a few dollars more than the equivalent die hard or other quality battery, so whats the point? Besides, in all the bmw batterys I've bought, they typically last 4 or more years.

[thread killer]

Optimas = junk!

[dogears]

So, more info.....

This all started when I was getting my SWS8 subs installed. My guy was checking something and disconnected the battery. He did nothing else that day. He reconnected it. Then the problems started.

Maybe, the car felt the battery was changed since the power was cut off. Then the ECU felt the voltage was lower than normal due to the wear on the old battery. So, it issues the codes and shuts of the power after stop (hence the clock reset and no comfort access).

Today it was in the 40s and the car is fine..... No codes and the access works and clock is holding time. Maybe the car adapted to the battery again???

Strange stuff. No matter, on Monday I will order the BT tool!!! I won't pay the dealer for stuff like coding the battery. I'd rather spend a little more and have the pro tool myself.

Thanks for tips all!

Btw, what do you all think of this battery?? Should I need one.... 900CCA and AGM. $179.



http://www.remybattery.com/Products/...y__9AGM49.aspx

[thread killer]

Still has to go to the dealer if you install that battery. Car has to be retrofitted for an AGM battery via programming.

[dogears]

Even if I have the Bavarian Technic tool??

Originally Posted by thread killer

Still has to go to the dealer if you install that battery. Car has to be retrofitted for an AGM battery via programming.

[thread killer]

i honestly dont know about all these "little" aftermarket companies that put out tools and tuners that allow you to "Clear all the codes" and do all sorts of other stuff.


as far as im concerned, unless you own a GT1, an ISTA (or passthru), or an autologic, that isnt going to happen.

you may be able to clear codes (on the limited research i fooled around looking for), but to actually go into service functions like the GT1 or ISTA or autologic and register a battery, or see if any batteries have been registered previously is something that i wouldnt think that these little tuner modules can accomplish. if im wrong, im wrong... i dont know what they are capable of doing.

im just basing this on my heavy experience with BMW's, the diagnosis equipment i have mentioned, and the aftermarket/do-it-yourselfers i have had the pleasure (and extreme displeasure!) of having to work with.

a lot of misunderstood information and technology throughout this forum in general on the electrical systems of newer BMW's is apparent.

[Tim B.]

Originally Posted by thread killer

i honestly dont know about all these "little" aftermarket companies that put out tools and tuners that allow you to "Clear all the codes" and do all sorts of other stuff.


as far as im concerned, unless you own a GT1, an ISTA (or passthru), or an autologic, that isnt going to happen.

you may be able to clear codes (on the limited research i fooled around looking for), but to actually go into service functions like the GT1 or ISTA or autologic and register a battery, or see if any batteries have been registered previously is something that i wouldnt think that these little tuner modules can accomplish. if im wrong, im wrong... i dont know what they are capable of doing.

im just basing this on my heavy experience with BMW's, the diagnosis equipment i have mentioned, and the aftermarket/do-it-yourselfers i have had the pleasure (and extreme displeasure!) of having to work with.

a lot of misunderstood information and technology throughout this forum in general on the electrical systems of newer BMW's is apparent.

Well, let me ask you, is the 20lbs of weight savings worth it to change the oem battery to the CSL/mini/Z4M one? I've read threads about it but can't make up my mind. I used the odyssey battery on my e46 m3 and it worked for 5 yrs with no problems.

[thread killer]

i dont know your driving habits, distance drove daily, trip lengths, time it sits, if you park in a garage etc.etc.

it all depends. can you live with a lower amp hour capacity? can your car? is your car ready for an AGM? do you have aftermarket goodies installed?


your comparing an alternator in your E46 (with a voltage regulator) to your E9x which has the DME controlling the alternator via a bus line. it uses the negative ground cable, dme and alternator to figure out the charging algorithm.


newer BMW's are a whole new ball of wax. comparing your E46 to an E90 in the technical/electrical sense is like comparing your E46 to an E21. there just isnt a comparison in the way the systems work.

the charging systems also dont work equally when changing from wetcell to AGM or gell cell batteries either. the car's charging stratigy has to be changed via programming (retrofit) to accept an AGM CORRECTLY in the vehicle.


this major thing i think most people dont understand about these newer cars, is the amount of "behind the scenes" stuff the car is doing/monitoring/watching.

your odyssy is also a premium built battery. it can survive pretty well, it what i run in my cars.
just please dont run an optima unless you like to crack your window and throw 20's out of it down the freeway.


this isnt a chevy folks.

[dogears]

Fwiw, the Bavarian Technic scan tool can register the battery. I don't think it can recode for AGM though. That is the question at hand.

I will call the dealer tomorrow and see what they will charge to recode for AGM. I think I can get them to do it for a nominal fee. We just got a 750i from them.

Good customer and all....

[thread killer]

i went and looked at that tool's website.

for coding it uses the "suck and blow" method.
lets say you replace a module- it reads out the information of the module, saves it (you replace the module) then it trys to recode the new module with the old information.
in the mean time your holding your breath with fingers crossed


example to dumb this down.


the car has a software level of 2.0.0
a module dies
you replace the module, but the internal hardware of the module is 2.1.0
you install it, and try to "suck and blow" 2.0.0 into the 2.1.0 module.
fun times.
now the car sees a module of 2.1.0, in a 2.0.0 software level world, and thinks somethings wrong with it.



the right way:
same scenario, but
after you replace it, you progam and encode the entire vehicle using an ISTA (remember dealers have this of course, but independants worth their salt have one as well)
and it will update the entire vehicle to the 2.1.0 status, normally programming all sorts of control units (which normally helps out the vehicle in the first place, its like updating your computer)......
now everyone talks and is happy, cause they are all on the same level again.


make sense?


by the way, the CBS data and easily be reset thru the cluster with no tools needed.

[dogears]

Thanks TK!

What is the CBS data?

Appreciate the help!

[thread killer]

condition based services- oil changes/spark plugs etc.etc.

[Tim B.]

Originally Posted by thread killer

i dont know your driving habits, distance drove daily, trip lengths, time it sits, if you park in a garage etc.etc.

it all depends. can you live with a lower amp hour capacity? can your car? is your car ready for an AGM? do you have aftermarket goodies installed?


your comparing an alternator in your E46 (with a voltage regulator) to your E9x which has the DME controlling the alternator via a bus line. it uses the negative ground cable, dme and alternator to figure out the charging algorithm.


newer BMW's are a whole new ball of wax. comparing your E46 to an E90 in the technical/electrical sense is like comparing your E46 to an E21. there just isnt a comparison in the way the systems work.

the charging systems also dont work equally when changing from wetcell to AGM or gell cell batteries either. the car's charging stratigy has to be changed via programming (retrofit) to accept an AGM CORRECTLY in the vehicle.


this major thing i think most people dont understand about these newer cars, is the amount of "behind the scenes" stuff the car is doing/monitoring/watching.

your odyssy is also a premium built battery. it can survive pretty well, it what i run in my cars.
just please dont run an optima unless you like to crack your window and throw 20's out of it down the freeway.


this isnt a chevy folks.

Yes, i realize this car is a bit more "technical" than the E46 and that's why i wanted the input. Also why i was considering a stock BMW battery, just a smaller/lighter one. It's my daily driver so it never sits more than 36 hours except maybe once a year when i go on vacation for 6/7 days. On average, i put about 35 miles a day on it and usually drive "spirited". I do have underdrive pulleys on it too. Is the 20lb weight savings worth it ?? Thanks.