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      01-08-2015, 03:24 PM   #45
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If you're using a deflection torque wrench you can loosen lugs with it without hurting it. The properties of a 1/2" stainless rod don't change much at the loads we exert to remove lugs, you could probably remove your wheels for life with one of those and tit would still bend the same. For the clickers, yeah, bad idea.
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      01-08-2015, 03:54 PM   #46
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Mines reversible. Designed to torque either direction. So if it can torque in opposite direction how is that different from loosening the wheel nut?
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      01-08-2015, 04:34 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
Mines reversible. Designed to torque either direction. So if it can torque in opposite direction how is that different from loosening the wheel nut?
I believe that technically the problem arises if/when you push past the torque detent (click) point with sustained force when removing. I guess if you crank your torque wrench up to a super high level then you could avoid that issue. But it's still a rookie practice. Not sure why you are arguing this one. It takes little effort to do things right in this instance.
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Last edited by slicer; 01-08-2015 at 04:39 PM..
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      01-08-2015, 04:50 PM   #48
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Not arguing, the rule is to not do it and I don't buy it. Tested it against one I haven't ever used and give same torque value. Do what you want and pray for me I guess. Wheels have always stayed on and will continue to do so.

Cavemen have thick skulls you know!
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      01-08-2015, 05:21 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
Not arguing, the rule is to not do it and I don't buy it. Tested it against one I haven't ever used and give same torque value. Do what you want and pray for me I guess. Wheels have always stayed on and will continue to do so.

Cavemen have thick skulls you know!
cavemen also have lots of body hair, you sir do not have a lot of bodyhair
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      01-08-2015, 05:26 PM   #50
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cavemen also have lots of body hair, you sir do not have a lot of bodyhair
Yeah right i Iook like creepy hairy rob Lowe from the commercials.
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      01-14-2015, 09:10 PM   #51
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Had my lugs so tight from the dealer my Craftmans cordless impact would not even make them move. Had to break them with an extra long breaker bar initially.

I start threading the lugs by hand, once they are going I snug them up with the impact wrench (quick). Then on the ground I torque with my torque wrench.

I couldn't believe how tight the dealer made my lugs.
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      01-16-2015, 09:33 AM   #52
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Ok, so i just bought the DeWalt 18v 1/2in cordless impact wrench.

Now I'm looking for some wheel sockets that have the plastic coating to protect the wheels. The autocraft ones at Advanced don't look so bad and you get 3 sizes for $25.

I was also looking at this one from Burger: http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_prot...el_socket.html

Any experience with either?
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      01-16-2015, 10:05 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by to///m View Post
Ok, so i just bought the DeWalt 18v 1/2in cordless impact wrench.

Now I'm looking for some wheel sockets that have the plastic coating to protect the wheels. The autocraft ones at Advanced don't look so bad and you get 3 sizes for $25.

I was also looking at this one from Burger: http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_prot...el_socket.html

Any experience with either?
I have a set of plastic coated sockets that I never use. I have found that the plastic coating makes the diameter so wide that they make contact with the lug pockets on many wheels. I soon realized that they actually caused the damage that they were designed to protect. A standard socket is actually safer IMO because it has a smaller diameter and is less likely to contact the lug pocket.
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      01-16-2015, 10:27 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicer View Post
I have a set of plastic coated sockets that I never use. I have found that the plastic coating makes the diameter so wide that they make contact with the lug pockets on many wheels. I soon realized that they actually caused the damage that they were designed to protect. A standard socket is actually safer IMO because it has a smaller diameter and is less likely to contact the lug pocket.
That's a good point. I may just get a thin walled one or just get a standard wheel socket and be careful
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      01-20-2015, 06:02 AM   #55
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Yea I use burger tunings coated socket with a breaker bar with small extension and of course torque wrench for putting back on.
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      01-20-2015, 01:38 PM   #56
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Craftsman torque wrench set to 100ft. lbs.
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      01-23-2015, 07:28 PM   #57
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Milwaukee M18 impact wrench to loosen, tire iron to tighten...don't want to snap them.
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      01-24-2015, 03:23 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fitchesbass View Post
Had my lugs so tight from the dealer my Craftmans cordless impact would not even make them move. Had to break them with an extra long breaker bar initially.

I start threading the lugs by hand, once they are going I snug them up with the impact wrench (quick). Then on the ground I torque with my torque wrench.

I couldn't believe how tight the dealer made my lugs.
Yep they should be torqued to 88-90 LBS no higher or your going to start stretching your lugs over time.
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      04-09-2015, 10:15 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
I If no one is there to signal to then the rule doesn't apply. I know I'm turning and don't need to tell myself. Each rule has an intended purpose behind it. If the situation arises where following the rule doesn't fulfill the purpose there is no reason to follow the rule, right.

"if no one is there to signal". You cannot assess that from the driver's seat that's why you must follow the law. In many urban or even countryside intersections there may be no other cars but the driver cannot physically see a pedestrian about to cross a side street (peeking out of a bus stop to catch your signalling intent and crossing the street seconds later, a younger person walking between parked SUV / van who saw you car signals off). The law prevents pedestrian from getting run over but it also promotes an efficient fast flow of pedestrians and cars in urban areas. If a small minority does not signal then the whole system falls apart. And as in the pedestrian example you're not supposed to signal when you turn but 200 feet BEFORE and during the turn NOT based on seeing other drivers.

In many european countries you can be ticketed. They won't stop you but follow you from a distance waiting for you to hang yourself more if you are a promising candidate.

In the usa the 'occasional signalers' are numerous. They should be weeded out the roads with a license point system. You can spot them they will only signal when they "see" other cars which is often a long time after you see them. if you are trying to enter a busy road and loose 5 sec to one of those drivers, it can turn into minute. Driving is as much about good reflexes and subconscious habits. People who use signalling consistently spend less brain effort not having to make decision if they should or not.

Last edited by M3 GT4; 04-09-2015 at 10:32 AM..
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      04-09-2015, 10:21 AM   #60
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Just what we need people using less brain effort to drive. Text away! Rules have an intended purpose I will say again. I'm talking about coming to a 4 way stop if I'm the only one clearly there who am I making an attempt to signal to? Like last man standing. When you are the last person on earth a lot of rules make no sense anymore. Do you pay for gas at a gas station that no one will ever work at again.
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      04-09-2015, 10:59 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by to///m View Post
That's a good point. I may just get a thin walled one or just get a standard wheel socket and be careful
& wrap it a little with ducktape.
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      04-09-2015, 11:29 AM   #62
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I don't find the protective sockets to be too thick at all. narrower than my standard sockets. Use this one all the time. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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