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      04-28-2013, 07:15 AM   #111
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I'm not having any luck this weekend. I just swapped my standard pads back into all four corners, because I wasn't crazy about the low-dust pads I was trying as an experiment.

Pushed the pistons back in using Kaiv's method of levering the caliper against the carrier. I had forgotten to open the master cyl cap, but they went back in fine anyway.

After, I added a few ounces of fluid to the master cyl res to top it up.

Now I have a soft pedal that goes to the floor before the brakes engage.

Any thoughts? I know how to bleed the system if I have to, but what a PITA. I can't imagine how I might have gotten air in it changing the pads.
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      04-28-2013, 11:33 AM   #112
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I'm not having any luck this weekend. I just swapped my standard pads back into all four corners, because I wasn't crazy about the low-dust pads I was trying as an experiment.

Pushed the pistons back in using Kaiv's method of levering the caliper against the carrier. I had forgotten to open the master cyl cap, but they went back in fine anyway.

After, I added a few ounces of fluid to the master cyl res to top it up.

Now I have a soft pedal that goes to the floor before the brakes engage.

Any thoughts? I know how to bleed the system if I have to, but what a PITA. I can't imagine how I might have gotten air in it changing the pads.
It will go to the floor the first 2-3 times per corner you press until the pistons go back in place. The thinner the pads the more times the pedal will go to the floor. Before you start driving you are supposed to pump the brakes until pedal is hard again.

How many times have you pumped your brakes?
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      04-28-2013, 01:02 PM   #113
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It will go to the floor the first 2-3 times per corner you press until the pistons go back in place. The thinner the pads the more times the pedal will go to the floor. Before you start driving you are supposed to pump the brakes until pedal is hard again.

How many times have you pumped your brakes?
Good tip, thanks. Unfortunately, this is not just the soft-pedal from re-positioning the pads. It's beyond that.
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      04-28-2013, 05:36 PM   #114
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how low was the fluid in the master cylinder? you might have introduced air at the reservoir level. Anytime you push a caliper piston in, you should pump the pedal to get the fluid back down into the caliper before moving on to the next caliper
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      05-06-2013, 04:30 PM   #115
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how low was the fluid in the master cylinder? you might have introduced air at the reservoir level. Anytime you push a caliper piston in, you should pump the pedal to get the fluid back down into the caliper before moving on to the next caliper
Fluid in the res was about 2/3, so there was headroom. Good tip about snugging up the pads at each corner as I go. Will make it easier to bolt 'em back anyway.

Solution to my problem above: new vaccum pump. By coincidence, unrelated to the pad swap, it died. Took it to the dealer a couple weeks ago and they fixed me up.
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      07-26-2013, 10:48 PM   #116
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Has anyone that had the wear sensor trip cleared the brake code with a Bavarian Technic Tool? And was it easy to clip on the brake wear sensor?

Out of all the steps to take I found that to be the hardest!
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      08-04-2013, 04:26 PM   #117
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anyone know the minimum thickness on the factory rotors before they need replacing?
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      08-04-2013, 04:54 PM   #118
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anyone know the minimum thickness on the factory rotors before they need replacing?
Front or rear?
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      08-04-2013, 04:54 PM   #119
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anyone know the minimum thickness on the factory rotors before they need replacing?
Front or rear?
Both.
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      08-04-2013, 04:56 PM   #120
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It is on the rotor itself. May need cleaning to see. Front is 28.4 and rear 26.4 if memory serves.
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      08-04-2013, 07:38 PM   #121
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Quote:
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It is on the rotor itself. May need cleaning to see. Front is 28.4 and rear 26.4 if memory serves.
Nice. Thank you.

This is my first brake job. So I doubt the rotors will need replacing. But I'll measure them up anyway.
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      08-04-2013, 07:41 PM   #122
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Quote:
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Nice. Thank you.

This is my first brake job. So I doubt the rotors will need replacing. But I'll measure them up anyway.
Just look at the edge of the hat to confirm what I said. Rotors are good for a lot of sets of pads. I ran probably 8 sets of race pads before replacing my rotors.
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      08-04-2013, 07:42 PM   #123
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Quote:
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Nice. Thank you.

This is my first brake job. So I doubt the rotors will need replacing. But I'll measure them up anyway.
Just look at the edge of the hat to confirm what I said. Rotors are good for a lot of sets of pads. I ran probably 8 sets of race pads before replacing my rotors.
Sounds good.

I don't track. I may go here in the future once or twice. But is there a certain pad you recommend? Or should I just go with factory replacements??

If aftermarket, where can I buy them?
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      08-04-2013, 07:52 PM   #124
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Quote:
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Sounds good.

I don't track. I may go here in the future once or twice. But is there a certain pad you recommend? Or should I just go with factory replacements??

If aftermarket, where can I buy them?
I would say maybe the stoptech st pad if you don't plan on tracking. Talk to harold at hpautowerks or richard ar M-world. I haven't used them because I use race pads but they are supposed to be okay for light track use and good on the street without a lot of noise like a race pad which will make your car sound like a bus.
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      08-04-2013, 07:54 PM   #125
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by kwike92 View Post
Sounds good.

I don't track. I may go here in the future once or twice. But is there a certain pad you recommend? Or should I just go with factory replacements??

If aftermarket, where can I buy them?
I would say maybe the stoptech st pad if you don't plan on tracking. Talk to harold at hpautowerks or richard ar M-world. I haven't used them because I use race pads but they are supposed to be okay for light track use and good on the street without a lot of noise like a race pad which will make your car sound like a bus.
Right on dude. I will contact them.

Thanks for your help.
It's appreciated.
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      04-06-2014, 04:42 PM   #126
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Thank you for the write-up! Very helpful yesterday.

COLLAPSING PISTON - agreed, no need for a c-clamp. After everything is unbolted and you're ready to pull the caliper off the rotor, just grab hold of the back of the caliper with both hands and simply put some heavy weight into it. Pull toward you for about 10-15 seconds and the piston will slowly collapse, completely.
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