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03-05-2012, 06:38 AM | #1 |
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Replaced Brake Lines
I followed Mr.5's DIY to replace the mid brake lines (here:http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...1&postcount=17).
One of the more challenging mods I've worked on to date. My hands paid the price because there isn't much room to work with. I went with Stoptech Stainless lines. Great quality but I wish the lines had the "star design" at the hose connects that the OEM lines have to prevent rotation as you tighten down the lines. ECS lines have this with their "exact fit" lines. It wasn't a huge issue, but given the challenge in swapping the mid lines, every bit helps. The install for the lines to the calipers are a breeze. Tip #1: depress the brake pedal about 2 inches using something to wedge between the seat and the pedal to prevent significant fluid loss while you are wrenching away. The fluid loss was minimal during the nearly three hour install (second time around will go quicker). Tip #2: You need a quality Flare Nut Wrench 11m to loosen and tighten the hard lines. The metal is soft and will round off very easily. I bought 6 identical wrenches from pep boys, out of the six only one had the tolerance I was comfortable with. Also, I hit the bolts with Liquid Wrench (any penetrating oil should work) the day before to ease breaking the nut free. I loosened it to the point I could use my fingers to remove the line. Did a full flush with Castrol SRF brake fluid using a Motive pressure bleeder. I always pull the old fluid from the reservoir with a measuring syringe as there is no reason to push old fluid through the system (don't pull too much and add air). I then top off the fluid reservoir with fresh fluid and attach the pressure bleeder (I don't add fluid to the pressure bleeder). Start with RR, RL, FR, FL (Facing the rear of the car). I bled the rear lines first. Starting with the RR line until nearly half the reservoir was depleted, released the pressure AT THE BLEEDER TOP, then refilled the reservoir and bled the RL line. Refilled the reservoir again and bled the FR and FL (Refill was necessary due to the length of the lines). The Feel: I was skeptical at first, but the feel is great, tremendous actually. Much more brake-by-wire feel. The OEM lines are very good, but the difference in pedal feel is significant. The true test will be at the track, I expect consistent firm pedal feel for longer than can be achieved with stock lines. Running Stoptech ST-60s with Pagids RS29s on the front and Stock Calipers and RS-7 Pagids on the rears.
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Last edited by Bubbles; 03-05-2012 at 08:19 AM.. |
03-05-2012, 08:20 AM | #2 |
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Feel any difference?
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E92 M3 SG DCT - AA Filter, Verstraβe Paddles, ECS SS, MH race stud, Stoptech BBK, MR Exhaust,RE Pulley, BPM Tune,Euro bumper and GTS lip, Euro MDM & DCT, KW CS, Recaro PP, TMS Soild Diff Mounts, MRF solid subframe mounts, GTS aero, RPM track built motor.
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03-05-2012, 09:51 AM | #3 |
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i did when i ran the same lines, pedal feels stiffer and when you stomp on them there isnt much delay like stock (it might be all in my head lol)
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03-05-2012, 10:07 AM | #4 | |
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Well put mkPOTO, the seems to be a reduction in the delay, a much more brake-by-wire feeling. The pedal feels great.
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03-05-2012, 01:51 PM | #6 |
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less travel for sure, i dont have to stomp on them to stop, now all i have to do is push it lightly. Huge difference from when I went to the track with stock lines, I had to brake early sometimes and now I just push it alittle more brake better on the aftermarket lines
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03-05-2012, 06:27 PM | #7 | |
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When I swapped on the BBK a few weeks ago, the pedal did not feel this linear. Even cold, the feel is different. I've flushed my brake system before with fresh SRF fluid and this feel is not from new fluid.
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03-07-2012, 07:54 AM | #10 |
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Nice job. Didn't the BBK kit come with SS lines?
I thought it was interesting that you don't fill the pressure bleeder with fluid, just refill the reservoir periodically. Any advantages? I may try this just to keep the bleeder hoses from getting all gooey.
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03-07-2012, 08:04 AM | #11 |
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I have tried both methods and now just refill the reservoir and use the power bleeder to provide pressure. If you use hose clamps (I put a ball valve in the bleeder hose), you can keep the pressure in the bottle while you top off the reservoir in between bleeds.
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03-07-2012, 08:04 AM | #12 |
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03-07-2012, 08:29 AM | #13 |
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Also, which Motive bleeder cap are you using? I need to buy the Euro one for mine and they make two different ones.
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03-07-2012, 10:11 AM | #14 | ||
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I believe it's the Motive European "Black Label", it's not the one that comes with the bleeder.
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03-07-2012, 10:17 AM | #15 |
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03-08-2012, 03:06 PM | #16 |
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I just replaced my clutch slave cylinder in my Miata, for which I had to buy a set of flare wrenches. I can feel the success of that operation coupled with the new tools pushing me towards doing this mod on the M3. lol.
Thanks Bubbles!
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03-09-2012, 07:15 AM | #18 | |
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You'd think but it actually slows the fluid loss, think of it creating a pseudo closed system.
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03-09-2012, 08:29 AM | #19 |
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Good to see a review of the Stoptech SS lines.
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03-09-2012, 10:54 AM | #20 | |
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When the pedal moves forward, the first few millimeters of movement close this duct off. If you close the duct before you open up the brake lines, no fluid can flow into, through and out of the master cylinder. Surface tension combined with the slight vacuum that forms keeps the system from draining while you work on it. |
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03-12-2012, 06:16 AM | #21 | |
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Good explanation, thanks.
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03-12-2012, 11:24 AM | #22 |
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Where's everyone getting their Castrol SRF from? And, are you buying more than one liter for the flush?
Last edited by THE TECH; 03-12-2012 at 01:47 PM.. |
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