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04-19-2024, 12:18 PM | #23739 | |
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I enjoyed ferodo dsUNO for a while. Loved the pad. No complaints for a race pad besides some chunking when it gets to backing plate thickness. Switched to Cobalt Friction and I run their XR1 pads up from and XR3 pads in the rear. I tend to leave my rear pads in for the street (lazy) but swap the fronts to Ferodo DS2500s. The theory on track is you want a less aggressive pad in the rear becaue when you brake, there is weight shifting off of the rear and you can lock up the rear brakes before the front, creating some imbalance. Makes sense on paper and I haven’t deviated from that advice.
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04-19-2024, 12:32 PM | #23740 |
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So...my lexan windshield has been bowing a bit (actually it happens with a loud bang) at 120mph+. So, I need to add some sort of brace. Any ideas that will not be too visually distracting?
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04-19-2024, 12:47 PM | #23742 |
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Maybe two small diameter aluminum rods wrapped in a soft black velour. With dual rods you could probably get away with smaller diameter and thereby less distracting.
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04-19-2024, 03:12 PM | #23743 | |
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I'm also braking less than I used to so there's that...
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04-19-2024, 03:21 PM | #23744 | |
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i use XP10F and XP10R for street driving
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04-19-2024, 04:03 PM | #23745 |
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in a similar vein.. what do people run in rear to pair with DS 1.11 up front? I'm running an ap9668 shape up front with 1.11s and ran 1.11s in back. i did have some squirliness on hard braking, wondering if that's partly the rears locking up from too much pad back there?
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04-19-2024, 06:54 PM | #23746 |
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I think as long a the front BBK matches the same oem torque values of the oem system you are fine running the same compound front and rear or with a lesser aggressive rear pad.
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04-20-2024, 02:47 AM | #23747 | |
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Did you install a quick release hinge on the door? If there is a way to easily attach and detach the door, please advise.
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04-20-2024, 02:52 PM | #23748 |
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How often do you change our oil when tracking? I changed rod bearings last year in July, did 1000 miles since and one track day, thinking of changing before next ?
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04-20-2024, 03:25 PM | #23749 | |
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if im only doing a saturday event i'll just change it once i reach 2k miles after the track day. but if im doing 2 day weekends, i will change it after 1k miles of daily driving. can never be to safe with oil on a street / track car.
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04-20-2024, 03:52 PM | #23750 | ||
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Oil changes are cheap security in this hobby..Its $100 give or take, but it's the piece of mind that you're getting as well. I use redline 5/50 and I do oil changes ever 2 track days or 3k miles. whichever happens first... Typically its 2 track days lol
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04-20-2024, 04:41 PM | #23751 |
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It also depends on your track day... I like to do half days with Tracknightin america, so it's only 3x20min sessions. If you do full weekend and such, 10 session x 30 min then yeah, every track weekend new oil...
I am still pleased that I see no oil consumption after an hour of revving over 7000.. at least I did not see any with motul. I think the worst was Liqui molly from memory, had to top up 1/2 quart after an hour of track time.
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04-21-2024, 10:58 PM | #23752 | |
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Using LM 10W60 exclusively and I've never had to top off oil during or after a track event. I did have to do it once on a long road trip before I got the rod bearings replaced which was long ago now. Differential oil is changed every other year and spark plugs every year.
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04-22-2024, 06:14 AM | #23753 |
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Hit 2:25-2:28 consistently around VIR this weekend, there's a lot more pace in the car but it's starting to come down to commitment in the straights. I think better drivers are hitting 2:11-2:15 in the stock car. I'm not sure what the top end on the back straight is for the base M3, but from feel, I think it would be around 145-150. I'm just hesitant to push the stock tires and calipers that hard.
One day, all but the last sessions were rain sessions and I found I have a lot of work to do on building pace in the wet. Almost all mental, the car control is there, but my brain hasn't caught up. Last edited by Cmassey3; 04-22-2024 at 08:38 AM.. |
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04-22-2024, 08:09 AM | #23754 |
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Yes I modified the oem hinges on the driver door to be able to quickly remove it to load/unload the car. Theirs a few post on here about it from different people that have done it.
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04-22-2024, 08:15 AM | #23755 | |
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Back straight I hit about 150mph in GTS3 form (10 to 1 pwr/weight tune) and front straight about 145mph. Here's one of my laps
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04-22-2024, 08:45 AM | #23756 | |
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The other thing I'm hitting is the impact of the body bracing through my hands since I'm LFB the entire time and can't brace with my right foot. A harness is going to be a good thing from a stamina point of view soon. |
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04-22-2024, 08:51 AM | #23757 | |
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04-22-2024, 03:12 PM | #23758 |
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One of the more repeated paddock chat grumbles this weekend was how heavy M cars have gotten and how heavy the E92 M3 is with some ditching it in favor of spec e46.
Outside of the 86 twins and MX5, I don't see lightweight track cars coming back unless it's a specialized track product like a Ginetta or Radical. What do y'all think about the future of the E92/F82/G82 as track rat cars when we run out of E36 chassis? |
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04-22-2024, 03:20 PM | #23759 | |
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04-22-2024, 03:35 PM | #23760 | |
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You could argue, despite the F8X/G8X being heavy cars, they will post lap times faster than the E9XM3 in the same "clubsport" build. Similarly, you could argue the same for Porsches. Look at how large they have become, but their performance matches. The E9XM just requires too much investment to be as fast. It can weigh under 3000lbs with the right money, parts, and effort, but it severely lacks power, which holds it back if you're still around 3200lbs. An E36 with an S54 swap is difficult to resist if your sole goal is to achieve fast lap times. So, to answer your question, I think the E9X is fine where it's at. You're right, we are running low on options in the near future. However, I would subsequently replace my E9XM3 with the early 996 chassis, which comes in at 2900lbs, if I wanted to build a dedicated track car.
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