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10-22-2013, 02:07 PM | #23 | |
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I think BMW probably realized that and thus implemented what we have today: Far more sensors and gauges exist in the car than have needles on our dash, because if everything is ok then the typical driver has no need and likely no desire to see it -- and the "dummy" gauge rather than being implemented as a physical gauge was instead implemented as a warning lamp or message that appears on the dash only when conditions warrant. The only obvious downside to that system is that if the gauge itself is faulty that might not be as obvious as it would be with needle-based gauges, but I guess that's why modern cars have sensors that monitor the other sensors.
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10-22-2013, 02:23 PM | #24 | ||
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Well, my 1990 Mustang LX has a proper temp gauge that fluctuates depending on conditions so there's an example of a car in the 80s-90s that actually has a working water temp gauge. Quote:
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10-22-2013, 03:33 PM | #25 |
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lot of folks with n54/5 do actually say that it is indeed the water temps (although their oil gets almost to 300F too! yikes!) and suggest getting a water temp guage, and replacing with water......so it may be the same thing less turbos causing 300F oil temps.
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10-22-2013, 05:22 PM | #26 |
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Temps
I'm seeing my logged water temps into the 232 range (112C) and the oil temps in the 280 range after only 4-5 laps. I'm going to start investigating building a better oil cooler.
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10-22-2013, 09:32 PM | #27 | |
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I'd seriously consider a better radiator -like the PWR unit that TMS sells before upgrading the oil cooler. |
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10-22-2013, 10:01 PM | #28 |
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This is a good revived thread and thanks to all for input. Those that have gone FI route and track their cars I am curious how much added heat goes into the oil temps as well.
This summer I put a 575 kit on and up in Boston we had several days of high humidity and heat. Now I know street driving is very different, but I reference this as I became hesitant for several track events lined up. My oil temps were constantly at or would reach slightly above the third marking on the oil temp in the vehicle. Didn't matter the type of driving I was doing (highway, city or track). I took it to the track on one of those warmer days and after just 3 laps got the engine too hot drive moderately warning. Been thinking about investing in an oil cooler as we looked at every possible problem their could be related to stock internal plumbing going bad, blockage, etc for the oil to be running so hot. Has anyone experienced the same in the hotter climates that have FI S65 engines. Thanks. Andrew |
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10-22-2013, 10:54 PM | #29 | ||
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10-23-2013, 07:46 AM | #30 | |
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I'd like to hear someone who tracks their car with an aftermarket radiator or oil cooler chime in. |
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10-23-2013, 08:34 AM | #31 | |
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It's unfortunate that water/oil-induced limp modes do not leave ECU codes behind that can be read via OBD, if there was a way to do that, it'd point us in the right direction. |
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10-23-2013, 08:55 AM | #32 | |
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10-23-2013, 09:38 AM | #33 | |||
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these are n54/n55 numbers, I've been digging through documentation to find the equivalent S65 numbers but obviously an NA motor will have a much better usable temp range (or at least a better starting line) |
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10-23-2013, 09:54 AM | #34 | |
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While not intimately knowing the details of the S65/N54/N55 motors, in general 110C (230*F) is not good for a production motor and cooling system. Were you ever able to consistently get the water temps down closer to 210*F (99C) sustained? If so were you still getting into ECU compensation/limp mode? |
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10-23-2013, 12:00 PM | #35 | |
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That's a 20-25min session (NASA DE4/TT group with mostly prep'ed cars/fast pace) so I'd say that within 7-8 mins in I was already past 99C (210F), all the way to 228F and taper down only on the last few laps which I attribute to driver fatigue more than anything else. |
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10-23-2013, 12:44 PM | #36 |
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My oil temp floats right above the middle of 210F and 300F so roughly 265. Once I spin out I get the high oil temp warning light.
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11-05-2013, 02:58 AM | #38 |
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M24 unit is not working up to standards either, not only is it expensive. It is still allowing temps to reach warning levels, then enter limp mode, it's only effect is it is cooling back down faster. I also want to install a larger cooler but the way the oil line connects to the cooler has me stopped since I have no idea how to convert that particular connection which is a bolt that bolts into the cooler itself thought a bracket, but the fitting itself is not threaded (i think). I am looking at fluidyne units and piecing together couple of fittings and lightweight lines. However the biggest current issue is adapting the current oil cooler connector into a AN fitting...please shed some light if anyone has done this already. Same goes for DCT cooler
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11-05-2013, 08:50 AM | #39 |
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I have access to a mechanical engineering team and CNC equipment. My plan is to run off about 60 of the stock fittings and then have a local high end welding shop build the coolers. My second option is an aircraft oil cooler shop. Right now I'm trying to find a used oil cooler. Seems they are not abundant.
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11-05-2013, 12:05 PM | #40 | |
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And, don't know about other people, but I don't have the time to go around sourcing for some custom cooler and having my car as the test bed.
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11-06-2013, 08:25 AM | #41 |
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WWW.pwr.com.au arguably the best oil coolers and radiators on the planet.
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11-06-2013, 08:26 PM | #42 | |
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11-06-2013, 08:35 PM | #43 |
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Pep Boys and some other stores stock it. Not cheap, but they have it. The newer CHF202 is also becoming easier to get in B&M stores.
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11-06-2013, 10:16 PM | #44 |
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What are you guys logging these temps with, BTW? Bluetooth dongle and an app?
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