Which brake fluid is best for mix of longevity, street-use and light track duty?

[byroncheung]

Originally Posted by byroncheung

alright i'm sold

reading the product info : https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-8...-liter-bottle/

it will need frequent bleeding? how frequent? if i need to go to the shop to bleed frequently it kind of defeat the purpose of having a fluid that supposedly last long...?

also moving into SRF from OEM will require rather complete flushing? one more thing to worry about the shop won't flush it good enough?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by byroncheung

reading the product info : https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-8...-liter-bottle/

it will need frequent bleeding? how frequent? if i need to go to the shop to bleed frequently it kind of defeat the purpose of having a fluid that supposedly last long...?

also moving into SRF from OEM will require rather complete flushing? one more thing to worry about the shop won't flush it good enough?

SRF needs to be changed around every year. Until then it doesn't have any bubbles in it

The SRF should replace the OEM fluid so yeah, it isn't a bleed it's a flush the 1st time.
Same thing as if you were switching to any other fluid, you'd need the whole system to have the high performance fluid

[byroncheung]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

SRF needs to be changed around every year. Until then it doesn't have any bubbles in it

The SRF should replace the OEM fluid so yeah, it isn't a bleed it's a flush the 1st time.
Same thing as if you were switching to any other fluid, you'd need the whole system to have the high performance fluid

So what it says about bleeding : "Silicone fluids will need more frequent bleeding than conventional fluids. Since it does not absorb moisture, water will sit in the system and turn to vapor when it boils. The vapor, and any remaining water, will need to be bled out to avoid excessively spongy brakes and long pedal travel. Pooled water can also lead to rust so bleeding often is strongly recommended, especially on cars that sit for extended periods. A sealed bleeding tool works better than the traditional two-person method."

Isn't quite necessary, I can just go with changing/flushing every year w/o having to bleed in between?

[rymerc]

ATE200 is about $12/liter and published 388f/536f boiling points. Depending on the pace you keep it might be good enough for you

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by byroncheung

So what it says about bleeding : "Silicone fluids will need more frequent bleeding than conventional fluids. Since it does not absorb moisture, water will sit in the system and turn to vapor when it boils. The vapor, and any remaining water, will need to be bled out to avoid excessively spongy brakes and long pedal travel. Pooled water can also lead to rust so bleeding often is strongly recommended, especially on cars that sit for extended periods. A sealed bleeding tool works better than the traditional two-person method."

Isn't quite necessary, I can just go with changing/flushing every year w/o having to bleed in between?

Very interesting info

Myself and most other people with SRF don't bleed it more than once/twice a year.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by rymerc

ATE200 is about $12/liter and published 388f/536f boiling points. Depending on the pace you keep it might be good enough for you

He said he's a novice, so he's probably a bit harder on the brakes than more experienced folks. This isn't a knock on him, it's just the reality of developing proper technique.

Also, the M3 is a fairly heavy and fast car so it will be hard on the brakes versus something like an S2000 or BRZ.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by byroncheung

So what it says about bleeding : "Silicone fluids will need more frequent bleeding than conventional fluids. Since it does not absorb moisture, water will sit in the system and turn to vapor when it boils. The vapor, and any remaining water, will need to be bled out to avoid excessively spongy brakes and long pedal travel. Pooled water can also lead to rust so bleeding often is strongly recommended, especially on cars that sit for extended periods. A sealed bleeding tool works better than the traditional two-person method."

Isn't quite necessary, I can just go with changing/flushing every year w/o having to bleed in between?

This is interesting, but I interpret it as "don't run SRF for 5 years like the average moron does in their Camry." For anyone who is tracking their car, and drives it with any regularity, you can just put this in at the beginning of the season and forget about it until the following season.

I also disagree about those bleeding tools. There was literally just a thread on here within the past week or two about how someone was using one of those and kept getting air back into the system somehow. Those one-man tools are designed to make things easier for quick changes when you're alone or in a hurry, but the two-man system is a tried-and-true method.

[byroncheung]

Originally Posted by dparm

This is interesting, but I interpret it as "don't run SRF for 5 years like the average moron does in their Camry." For anyone who is tracking their car, and drives it with any regularity, you can just put this in at the beginning of the season and forget about it until the following season.

I also disagree about those bleeding tools. There was literally just a thread on here within the past week or two about how someone was using one of those and kept getting air back into the system somehow. Those one-man tools are designed to make things easier for quick changes when you're alone or in a hurry, but the two-man system is a tried-and-true method.

thanks for all the info! seems like most ppl has been ok with just changing it yearly, i will give it a try for this season!

[Z K]

Originally Posted by dparm

He said he's a novice, so he's probably a bit harder on the brakes than more experienced folks. This isn't a knock on him, it's just the reality of developing proper technique.

Also, the M3 is a fairly heavy and fast car so it will be hard on the brakes versus something like an S2000 or BRZ.

+1

I used to overheat ATE Super Blue/Typ200 fluid in my Honda Civic that I tracked... which was a 2600 lb car. Ever since then I've never used it on any of my cars. The ATE turns into a gel when it overheats which makes it hard to bleed as well. It's ok for street usage but otherwise I'd avoid it. I also overheated Motul RBF600 but it's much easier to bleed than the ATE.

With a big and heavy car like the M3, we need something that can handle more heat.