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      01-11-2015, 04:09 PM   #45
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Prime the engine by pouring oil down the intake tract. This will minimize any bearing wear.
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      01-11-2015, 04:22 PM   #46
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Prime the engine by pouring oil down the intake tract. This will minimize any bearing wear.
Won't start now.
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      01-11-2015, 05:01 PM   #47
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Not all cars are blowing up as it's made out to be on this forum. There are cars that have run over 100k kms with the original bearings. So there is no magical start up process. Just patience is the key here. This is your car and your hard earned money. So why the hell would you thrash it from the time you press start. A little bit of patience will save you heartache and a lot of money and stop you blame BMW for the wrong reasons. My 2c.
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      01-11-2015, 08:25 PM   #48
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This thread...
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      01-11-2015, 08:28 PM   #49
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Won't start now.
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      01-11-2015, 08:58 PM   #50
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Bearings receive no additional wear now either.
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      01-11-2015, 09:27 PM   #51
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So, new to the forum, first winter with my 2011 E93. Start in the garage, live about 3 miles from the highway in the Northeast where I love to hit it hard in normal temperatures. Now that it's cold are you guys saying I should ease up or I may do harm?g
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      01-11-2015, 10:24 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLZ View Post
So, new to the forum, first winter with my 2011 E93. Start in the garage, live about 3 miles from the highway in the Northeast where I love to hit it hard in normal temperatures. Now that it's cold are you guys saying I should ease up or I may do harm?g
In general, once your oil temp gauge is above 175 F, you can hit it. The warmer the better.
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      01-12-2015, 06:42 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLZ View Post
So, new to the forum, first winter with my 2011 E93. Start in the garage, live about 3 miles from the highway in the Northeast where I love to hit it hard in normal temperatures. Now that it's cold are you guys saying I should ease up or I may do harm?g
I live in nh. 3 miles won't warm the oil up enough if it is 5 minutes of secondary road. Probably would if it was 15 minutes of heavy traffic. Watch your gauges, both the oil temp and the moving rev limiter. I go very easy until the moving rev limiter has maxed out.
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      01-12-2015, 07:35 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros
i hate people that idle their car forever before moving. it burns gas, pollutes the environment, and actually puts more wear and tear on the engine. best practice is to start the engine, let it idle for a few seconds while you put your seabelt, adjust the seat, turn on radio, etc. then drive. use moderate throttle. no more than 30-40% throttle and upshift below 3000-4000 rpm for the first 10 minutes or so of driving. by then the oil is close to operating temperature and you can drive normally. it's not too complicated really.
This....ALL BMWs now use variable pressure oil pumps. So idling with no power applied with result in very low oil pressure.

Easy driving and light use of the gas will protect the cold engine while promoting proper lubrication throughout the engine.

Cheers,
AA777
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      01-12-2015, 07:37 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLZ
So, new to the forum, first winter with my 2011 E93. Start in the garage, live about 3 miles from the highway in the Northeast where I love to hit it hard in normal temperatures. Now that it's cold are you guys saying I should ease up or I may do harm?g
Bingo, in the info cluster switch to oil level indicator and until it registers the oil level, regardless of what the moving redline indicator says, keep it around 3k rpm and no full throttle.

Cheers,
AA777
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      01-12-2015, 08:25 AM   #56
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The word: "this" is used 6 times in the thread so far. [ubi]
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      01-12-2015, 08:29 AM   #57
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The word: "this" is used 6 times in the thread so far. [ubi]
This...
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      01-12-2015, 08:56 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e46e92love View Post
This....ALL BMWs now use variable pressure oil pumps. So idling with no power applied with result in very low oil pressure.

Easy driving and light use of the gas will protect the cold engine while promoting proper lubrication throughout the engine.

Cheers,
AA777
Interesting, I thought oil pressure was OK even from low RPM but learn something everyday.
So would that mean that the cold start with its increased RPM serves a purpose here you'd think..?

Thanks
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      01-12-2015, 09:27 AM   #59
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Yea not sure where everyone got 3k either but I do same thing. Weird huh? Maybe because the peak torque is at 3900??
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      01-12-2015, 09:30 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
Interesting, I thought oil pressure was OK even from low RPM but learn something everyday.
So would that mean that the cold start with its increased RPM serves a purpose here you'd think..?
The point of volume flow-controlled oil pumps is to reduce the power loss seen by conventional direct drive oil pumps. There are a few different versions but one of the benefits is a higher oil flow rate at low rpm.
This is one version...talks about auto trans but its similar for engine oil pumps:
http://www.mahle.com/mahle/en/news-a...r-oil-pump.jsp

Last edited by SenorFunkyPants; 01-12-2015 at 09:41 AM..
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      01-12-2015, 10:44 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorFunkyPants
Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
Interesting, I thought oil pressure was OK even from low RPM but learn something everyday.
So would that mean that the cold start with its increased RPM serves a purpose here you'd think..?
The point of volume flow-controlled oil pumps is to reduce the power loss seen by conventional direct drive oil pumps. There are a few different versions but one of the benefits is a higher oil flow rate at low rpm.
This is one version...talks about auto trans but its similar for engine oil pumps:
http://www.mahle.com/mahle/en/news-a...r-oil-pump.jsp
Great info.......I wish I could respond to in greater detail on the intricacies of variable vs constant pressure oil pumps, but I can't and won't try.

What I will say is that since the n54 every manual I have ever read from BMW states to pretty much turn your car on, and drive away and the mechanics I know who have engine build experience on two race teams said that sounds about right for a street engine. Although they also pointed out the true solution would be for a engine block heater to be available on our engines like GM offered for many, many years on its famed 3.8 V6 and which I think they still offer on various engines to this day. However, the intricacies of engine block heaters work and are designed is beyond me so no idea whether the concept could even be used in the S65 due to space or construction limitations.

Cheers,
AA777
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      01-12-2015, 10:55 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
This...
Shit, that makes 7.
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      01-12-2015, 12:07 PM   #63
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Quote:
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Shit, that makes 7.
Haha, thanks for my daily smile mate...😉
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      01-12-2015, 12:12 PM   #64
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I think this thread reached the highest point so far, we now know not to beat the hell out of a cold engine. Cold= no go/ low RPM Warm=Go sky's the limit RPM
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      01-12-2015, 01:45 PM   #65
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When I had a Vortech T Trim on my 99M3, I used an oil pan heater on the coldest days. You can buy these for $50 to $100 in a variety of sizes and wattages. Either leave a lower wattage one plugged in overnight or plug a higher wattage one in an hour or two before you leave. Mine was stick on and about 4"x5." I don't use one on the 99M3 now because I changed from a supercharger to a turbo and I don't use one on the 08M3 because I see no need for one.
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      01-12-2015, 01:53 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
When I had a Vortech T Trim on my 99M3, I used an oil pan heater on the coldest days. You can buy these for $50 to $100 in a variety of sizes and wattages. Either leave a lower wattage one plugged in overnight or plug a higher wattage one in an hour or two before you leave. Mine was stick on and about 4"x5." I don't use one on the 99M3 now because I changed from a supercharger to a turbo and I don't use one on the 08M3 because I see no need for one.
How will you stick these to the oil pan in the M3? The re-enforcement plate on the bottom pretty much covered the entire oil pan and only has 2 opening for the oil drain plugs.
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