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| 11-03-2020, 03:11 PM | #1 |
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Bad Battery and Code Issues Resolved
I changed my battery over the weekend and wanted to share some of the weird issues I was experiencing from not doing this sooner. 2011 car with the original battery and was getting random codes which would show up out of nowhere at idle or after driving. These have disappeared since replacing the battery. I have attached some of the codes. I came across a post by chance which alluded to weird codes from a weak or bad battery. Not sure if it is a coincidence but the same codes have not returned since the battery swap about 2 weeks ago. I was not looking forward to doing the throttle actuator swap. Fingers crossed that it was a bad battery.
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| 11-03-2020, 03:55 PM | #3 |
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Yes, I did to both which prompted me to change the battery as it never entered limp mode. It had also been on a battery tender prior when it wasn't driven on a daily basis.
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| 11-06-2020, 08:14 PM | #4 |
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Major General
 
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It is interesting, because I have similar symptoms like you. I have CEL (increased emission) and have your #2,3 code pop up. my advisor said I need to replace the TA.
CEL come and goes, I had DSC lights, TPM lights on, so it has to be TA. However, I did not have increased battery discharge light though. My battery was replaced in 2017 |
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| 11-07-2020, 01:57 AM | #5 |
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Lord Scrip
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Drives: 2011 M3 Coupe
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: LA,Ca
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Bad Battery and Code Issues Resolved
Dying batteries and or alternators will generate many bad codes. So many that it's easy to pinpoint the battery or alt. I went through this and got like 9 errors multiple times and it was in fact my battery. The throttle actuator error you are getting is your TA for bank 2, the rear one. Usually the one that fails first in my experiences. You can switch the car off and it will clear limp mode and store the code but this will eventually die completely. Easy job that even zero skills person could do. So let it go but it will eventually need replacing. I would recommend sending your old one out for rebuild so you can keep it on hand. Both TA's are the same part so it's good to just have one. My bank 2 TA lasted until 176,000ish. Bank 1 is at 220,000 and still going strong.
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