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      07-11-2022, 03:32 PM   #23
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How should the diverted valve be adjusted? Mine is fully open under vacuum. With the car running, I was able to turn the adjust many turns before it started to not be fully opened any more.

Does anyone have photos of their G1 DV showing how the far out the adjuster is sticking?
I had the same issue with my g1. Exactly the same. The dv oring on mine was also pinched.
Is the collar that sandwiches the oring on the dv in the correct way? I had mine backwards and the Valve wouldn't seal once it open after a shift.
The collar shouldn't be flush with the valve so when you bolt it to the manifold it sandwiches the oring. Check that.
So to be clear: you want the raised edge of that metal insert to point into the plenum? Not the DV? Basically so it self centers?
Yup that's correct. Once you bolt it on it will squish the oring in place.
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      07-11-2022, 03:53 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Scharbag View Post
How should the diverted valve be adjusted? Mine is fully open under vacuum. With the car running, I was able to turn the adjust many turns before it started to not be fully opened any more.

Does anyone have photos of their G1 DV showing how the far out the adjuster is sticking?
I had the same issue with my g1. Exactly the same. The dv oring on mine was also pinched.
Is the collar that sandwiches the oring on the dv in the correct way? I had mine backwards and the Valve wouldn't seal once it open after a shift.
The collar shouldn't be flush with the valve so when you bolt it to the manifold it sandwiches the oring. Check that.
So to be clear: you want the raised edge of that metal insert to point into the plenum? Not the DV? Basically so it self centers?
Yup that's correct. Once you bolt it on it will squish the oring in place.
Awesome. Mine was in backwards. I will try this out.

Also, ESS did say the boost will read lower when you tap into the DV line. With your G1, do you read boost? If so, from where and what values to you get at what RPM? Roughly.

Thank you so much for the help too. These forums are so awesome!!

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      07-11-2022, 04:01 PM   #25
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How should the diverted valve be adjusted? Mine is fully open under vacuum. With the car running, I was able to turn the adjust many turns before it started to not be fully opened any more.

Does anyone have photos of their G1 DV showing how the far out the adjuster is sticking?
I had the same issue with my g1. Exactly the same. The dv oring on mine was also pinched.
Is the collar that sandwiches the oring on the dv in the correct way? I had mine backwards and the Valve wouldn't seal once it open after a shift.
The collar shouldn't be flush with the valve so when you bolt it to the manifold it sandwiches the oring. Check that.
So to be clear: you want the raised edge of that metal insert to point into the plenum? Not the DV? Basically so it self centers?
Yup that's correct. Once you bolt it on it will squish the oring in place.
Awesome. Mine was in backwards. I will try this out.

Also, ESS did say the boost will read lower when you tap into the DV line. With your G1, do you read boost? If so, from where and what values to you get at what RPM? Roughly.

Thank you so much for the help too. These forums are so awesome!!

Don't tap the dv line. On the back of the plenum unbolt the air pump block. Drill and tap in a 1/8npt barb fitting. Take the boost off that.
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      07-11-2022, 04:49 PM   #26
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How should the diverted valve be adjusted? Mine is fully open under vacuum. With the car running, I was able to turn the adjust many turns before it started to not be fully opened any more.

Does anyone have photos of their G1 DV showing how the far out the adjuster is sticking?
I had the same issue with my g1. Exactly the same. The dv oring on mine was also pinched.
Is the collar that sandwiches the oring on the dv in the correct way? I had mine backwards and the Valve wouldn't seal once it open after a shift.
The collar shouldn't be flush with the valve so when you bolt it to the manifold it sandwiches the oring. Check that.
So to be clear: you want the raised edge of that metal insert to point into the plenum? Not the DV? Basically so it self centers?
Yup that's correct. Once you bolt it on it will squish the oring in place.
Awesome. Mine was in backwards. I will try this out.

Also, ESS did say the boost will read lower when you tap into the DV line. With your G1, do you read boost? If so, from where and what values to you get at what RPM? Roughly.

Thank you so much for the help too. These forums are so awesome!!

Don't tap the dv line. On the back of the plenum unbolt the air pump block. Drill and tap in a 1/8npt barb fitting. Take the boost off that.
You are a gem good sir!! I will do that ASAP!!

I could care less about the vacuum reading. That is for sure.

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      07-14-2022, 06:03 PM   #27
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Any update?
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      07-15-2022, 12:42 AM   #28
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Any update?
Still having issues. Driving me nuts.

I have reached out to ESS. We will see what they say. Also, my boost leak detector should be here tomorrow.

I will keep you updated when I have new info.
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      07-15-2022, 06:06 PM   #29
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I would change the bypass. it's possible that it could be leaking even if it passes a pressure/smoke test with the engine off. 9/10 times what you've described is a leaky bypass.
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      07-15-2022, 09:57 PM   #30
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I would change the bypass. it's possible that it could be leaking even if it passes a pressure/smoke test with the engine off. 9/10 times what you've described is a leaky bypass.
Well, there is also the fact that the bottom side of all 8 ITB boots leak…. FML.

That said, I think you are correct about the BV as there is no way I am losing that much boost from tiny leaks from the bottom of the boots.
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      07-16-2022, 12:42 PM   #31
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I would change the bypass. it's possible that it could be leaking even if it passes a pressure/smoke test with the engine off. 9/10 times what you've described is a leaky bypass.
Well, there is also the fact that the bottom side of all 8 ITB boots leak…. FML.

That said, I think you are correct about the BV as there is no way I am losing that much boost from tiny leaks from the bottom of the boots.
All the boots are leaking?
Curious how much air pressure do you have the plenum pumped up to?
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      07-16-2022, 02:20 PM   #32
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I would change the bypass. it's possible that it could be leaking even if it passes a pressure/smoke test with the engine off. 9/10 times what you've described is a leaky bypass.
Well, there is also the fact that the bottom side of all 8 ITB boots leak…. FML.

That said, I think you are correct about the BV as there is no way I am losing that much boost from tiny leaks from the bottom of the boots.
All the boots are leaking?
Curious how much air pressure do you have the plenum pumped up to?
All were leaking. Some corrosion on them u see the boots. Plenum was at 7psi.

New clamps now and 10psi makes no bubbles.

Gunna go for a rip.
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      07-16-2022, 03:15 PM   #33
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Fukn thing still is inconsistent. New BV is the only other thing I guess…
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      07-16-2022, 06:09 PM   #34
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Fukn thing still is inconsistent. New BV is the only other thing I guess…
No belt slip?
When you say inconsistent are you talking boost pressure reading from the gauge or the way the car feels?

Do you have a draggy?
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      07-16-2022, 06:56 PM   #35
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I'm telling you if you pull the hose from the blow off valve you'll hear if it's passing, it whistles.
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      07-16-2022, 06:58 PM   #36
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Bypass, 9/10 times is.
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      07-16-2022, 09:11 PM   #37
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Thank you so much to all that have helped. This is a journey right?

Here are a few things that I have discovered as part of this adventure:
  1. I have become very adept at removing my plenum
  2. My decision to purchase 1/4" swivel sockets was a good one
  3. I am not, in fact, an alcoholic (if anything could drive a person to drink...)
  4. I am 100% sure that my plenum has no vacuum or boost leaks!!
  5. ESS confirmed that the ring between the BV and the plenum is to be installed with the flat side against the plenum - this is good to know
  6. I need to relocate my boost tap to the plenum and not the BV line (vacuum readings are so overrated )
  7. My local BMW dealer is no longer open on Saturdays... derp
  8. Not having a dyno available in the community is a real PITA - made worse by the fact that there are no long open roads on this little rock...
  9. My local Lordco does stock 9mm hose clamps - small victories are important
  10. This community is the bombdiggity! (I already knew this, just reminded me again)

So, here is where things stand. The system tests to 10PSI with no leaks (other than normal losses through the engine itself). After I corrected the BV installation, the car seems to pull OK (see 8 above). The boost measurement still seems inconsistent but I am going to leave that alone until I can install a tap on the plenum itself. As others have said, the port that can be removed on the back of the plenum seems like a perfect place to put a boost tap. Parts are on the way and I will install them as soon as I can.

Once I have the boost tap relocated, I will update this post.

Again, thank you for all the help!

Cheers,
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      07-16-2022, 09:13 PM   #38
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No belt slip?
When you say inconsistent are you talking boost pressure reading from the gauge or the way the car feels?

Do you have a draggy?
I do not have draggy.

Both the gauge and the way it drives indicates that things are not right. Hopefully after I have installed the DV properly things settle down. Plus I found that all of the boots were leaking...
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      07-16-2022, 09:14 PM   #39
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I'm telling you if you pull the hose from the blow off valve you'll hear if it's passing, it whistles.
So, pull the line off the DV and plug it? Then go for a rip? That is not going to cause any issues?
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      07-16-2022, 11:57 PM   #40
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I'm telling you if you pull the hose from the blow off valve you'll hear if it's passing, it whistles.
So, pull the line off the DV and plug it? Then go for a rip? That is not going to cause any issues?
Yeah pull the hose off that goes back to the intake and plug the intake side. You'd be able to listen for correct operation of the bypass valve. This is mine, I added the hose to silence it a bit because it'll whistle on overrun id imagine you'll be able to hear if it's open when it shouldn't be.
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      07-17-2022, 11:22 AM   #41
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As Sammy mentioned above, try this out and see if the valve is operating properly.

Also since you have the ess kit, you can get the velocity stack from eas that already has the port so you can tap your boost reference. There may also be a few for sale in the classifieds here.
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      07-23-2022, 10:35 AM   #42
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OK, so, did a little bit of amateur machining last evening. The boost tap installed very well - really surprised at how thick that piece is. Tapped out perfectly - most expensive part was the NPT tap. Little bit of blue locktite for luck.

When leak testing, there is a tiny tiny leak from this fitting area. I think the O-Ring that ESS uses is a little bit too skinny. But the leak is like a pin leak in a tire so I am not worried. Covered the threads of the bolt in flange sealant, so it is not going anywhere.

I replaced all of the vacuum lines with new fuel line and fresh hose clamps. Everything holds 10PSI with the boost tester. BV is fully open at idle.

Now, on to the shitty part - one of the bolts on the BV decided to go righty-losey. Luckily it is the bottom threads which has much deeper threads. I will get an M6x20mm bolt today and it should be all good. Worst case, I will hammer a heli-coil in there.

I have only driven the car to the gas station (cause we all know these things are thirsty). Boost reading is SOOOOOO different tapped into that location. I did not get into it too much given the one bolt is not stable (removed the washer just to get a bit of thread engagement). I hope it is normal to have it read boost while cruising on the highway

I will provide more updates once I can actually go for a proper test drive once I replace the bolt.

Thanks for all the help so far.
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      07-25-2022, 11:41 PM   #43
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Quote:
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OK, so, did a little bit of amateur machining last evening. The boost tap installed very well - really surprised at how thick that piece is. Tapped out perfectly - most expensive part was the NPT tap. Little bit of blue locktite for luck.

When leak testing, there is a tiny tiny leak from this fitting area. I think the O-Ring that ESS uses is a little bit too skinny. But the leak is like a pin leak in a tire so I am not worried. Covered the threads of the bolt in flange sealant, so it is not going anywhere.

I replaced all of the vacuum lines with new fuel line and fresh hose clamps. Everything holds 10PSI with the boost tester. BV is fully open at idle.

Now, on to the shitty part - one of the bolts on the BV decided to go righty-losey. Luckily it is the bottom threads which has much deeper threads. I will get an M6x20mm bolt today and it should be all good. Worst case, I will hammer a heli-coil in there.

I have only driven the car to the gas station (cause we all know these things are thirsty). Boost reading is SOOOOOO different tapped into that location. I did not get into it too much given the one bolt is not stable (removed the washer just to get a bit of thread engagement). I hope it is normal to have it read boost while cruising on the highway

I will provide more updates once I can actually go for a proper test drive once I replace the bolt.

Thanks for all the help so far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scharbag View Post
OK, so, did a little bit of amateur machining last evening. The boost tap installed very well - really surprised at how thick that piece is. Tapped out perfectly - most expensive part was the NPT tap. Little bit of blue locktite for luck.

When leak testing, there is a tiny tiny leak from this fitting area. I think the O-Ring that ESS uses is a little bit too skinny. But the leak is like a pin leak in a tire so I am not worried. Covered the threads of the bolt in flange sealant, so it is not going anywhere.

I replaced all of the vacuum lines with new fuel line and fresh hose clamps. Everything holds 10PSI with the boost tester. BV is fully open at idle.

Now, on to the shitty part - one of the bolts on the BV decided to go righty-losey. Luckily it is the bottom threads which has much deeper threads. I will get an M6x20mm bolt today and it should be all good. Worst case, I will hammer a heli-coil in there.

I have only driven the car to the gas station (cause we all know these things are thirsty). Boost reading is SOOOOOO different tapped into that location. I did not get into it too much given the one bolt is not stable (removed the washer just to get a bit of thread engagement). I hope it is normal to have it read boost while cruising on the highway

I will provide more updates once I can actually go for a proper test drive once I replace the bolt.

Thanks for all the help so far.
Any updates?
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      07-27-2022, 11:11 PM   #44
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Any updates?
Still testing. Getting used to how the boost readings have changed since I moved the boost to the Air Pump Inlet location. azn4x4 what kind of readings do you get from the boost tap at this location? I get boost all the time. Makes some sense as the blower is always making flow.

I still feel it is not perfect. Again, if I roll into the throttle, it is great. If I mash the gas, it seems to just struggle making boost. But the roads here are reallllllllyyyyy hard to test on so I need to find some time to go for a rip where I can go WOT for a while.

One other thing we got going on here is some heat - and boy this thing does heat soak in traffic. Running 54C today in bumper to bumper bullshit.

So, as soon as I know more, I will post about it!!!
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