E92 M3 clutch DIY - SPEC non self-adjusting with single mass flywheel

[DRK1]

Finally got this done! I hope it will help some of you. The clutch is a precision part and the job has to be done right, or else there will be issues. Useful links and references to videos are included.

[pbonsalb]

If this is a street car and the clutch is a street clutch, will you post a review after a few thousand miles about driveability compared to stock? I might consider a single mass when replacement time comes but my E90M3 is my comfortable cruiser car that I do not want to compromise much.

[DRK1]

I have about 1000km on it so far. The clutch starts out with some chatter every time it is engaged. SPEC says this is normal. Now it is almost gone and engagement is almost as smooth as the stock clutch. Pedal effort is heavier and that will not change. That is expected given that the clutch is rated for 900 lb-ft of torque! There is a little more vibration due to the fact that the single mass flywheel does not have a rubber component. That has does not change with break-in.

The clutch will last a long time and can be driven hard. If / when it wears out, the good thing is you won't need to replace the entire assembly, just the disks and maybe the pressure plate (keep the flywheel). A dual mass flywheel will wear out and it is expensive to replace.

If you drive the car in the city a lot, this is not the ideal clutch due to the higher pedal effort. Overall I would say it likes to be engaged quickly, not be slipped at low RPM (then it will chatter a bit). Give it more revs and it can be engaged smoothly and gradually. It's a nice solid component and it also takes some getting used to.

[europower]

Oh wow! This is amazing, thanks so much for this DIY!!! I just purchased the SS trim SPEC clutch, and plan of installing it next weekend. I realized my clutch is bad while on dyno after a supercharger install...
I made a post a few days ago about my clutch problem and only a few people replied. I couldn't find any SPEC clutch reviews so the review and a DIY is pure gold

[DRK1]

I'm glad it's helpful to you. Maybe worth making into a sticky if someone asks admin. This should be a great clutch for a supercharged car.

[europower]

Alright. Installed and running great so far. Can't wait for break in to be over... I think it's awesome though! Engages quickly, and it is stiffer, but not too bad... I really love it so far...
Do you have any rattle noise when in neutral, clutch not engaged? As soon as I push the clutch the noise goes away...
How do you launch it (if you do) once broken in?

I also don't get it why my stock clutch started slipping. It just did not like the extra sc power! It looked great, just a little glazed, and like it wasn't making full contact with the disk...

Thanks again for the diy!!!

[DRK1]

A little gear rattle (more than stock) is completely normal. Nothing to worry about. I think this is due to the lack of "dual mass" which has no rubber damper in the flywheel, combined with the low weight.

As you say, you will notice this in neutral, foot off the clutch. When you press the clutch the sound should go away. If not, then it is something else.

Enjoy you blown motor!

[europower]

Originally Posted by DRK1

A little gear rattle (more than stock) is completely normal. Nothing to worry about. I think this is due to the lack of "dual mass" which has no rubber damper in the flywheel, combined with the low weight.

As you say, you will notice this in neutral, foot off the clutch. When you press the clutch the sound should go away. If not, then it is something else.

Enjoy you blown motor!

Sweeeeet! That's what I thought!

[spr]

Anyone have this DIY for dct? Is it the same? Differences? Thanks. I'm pulling the motors and would love to leave the dct in so I don't have to drain, fill and reprogram and all the stuff that seems to be a PITA. Thoughts? Suggestions? I've completed almost everyhting to remove the motor other than divorce the dct from it. THANKS!

[spr]

I pulled the motor and DCT. DCT is easier and you only disconnect the shifter cable and coolant lines along with similar driveshaft and cross member. To remove from the DCT from the engine is as simple as removing the bolts and pulling away.

[jvictormp]

Awesome DIY!

I'm doing my engine removal right now, and with this tutorial I feel I can remove the transmission first, and lift the engine by the hood after.

No losses of power steering fluid and ac refrigerant.

[endur0]

Getting ready to install my LWFW and FX400.

One thing I noticed is the PDF writeup indicates using T55 Torx for flywheel removal. Searching using the tool number called for in my TIS (114180) leads me to several aftermarket specialized T60 Torx tools, which appear to have a slightly different interface profile from standard T60.

[jvictormp]

Finally I removed the transmission. I'd like to invite you guys to see the specific post about it:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...0&postcount=95

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...1&postcount=96

And ask you, as I asked there, if I'll need a centralizer pin to install the clutch, as it seems to centralize itself:

[endur0]

jvictormp I'm installing an aftermarket clutch, tho I think it's running an OEM pressure plate (LUK). I haven't removed my old clutch yet, but the captured disc in my new clutch is 7mm off center, and will need to be aligned. And so today I learned the BMW wants two special tools just for the pressure plate, one to lock the self adjusting mechanism during install, the other to depress the pressure plate fingers so the captured disc can be aligned. According to my TIS they're 212170 and 212180.

I could probably rig up something myself from stuff in the garage + some Home Depot trips, but I figured the lost time was worth more than the cost of the below, so I ordered a set. I'll be installing mine in a couple days, will report back on the tools' performance after I'm done.

https://www.freedomracing.com/212170...-tool-alt.html

[jvictormp]

Guys, how much can the engine tilt in order to remove and install the gearbox?

TIS says 50mm above some point but I can't identify that point clearly.

Plenum box is already touching the back of engine bay above. I should remove it, even when TIS doesn't say that.

But wouldn't I be overtilting it?

It sooooo hard to remove/install gearbox with this angle I reached.

[jfirwin]

ADMINS. Please sticky this.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Guys, how much can the engine tilt in order to remove and install the gearbox?

Lower the subframe if you need more tilt, be aware you'll need a engine support bar from the top.