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      08-05-2014, 05:02 PM   #1
skl007
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Those with Rear Camera Retrofits

Who did you use and how is it holding up? I'm looking to get one, but I'm a little hesitant to jump for a kit that replaces the trunk release.

Curious to see how hard it was to install, or how much it cost you to have someone install it, and if you were able to add those dynamic parking lines as well.

For those who also got the front camera, I'd be interested in some info as well. If I'm already doing the rear camera, I might as well just get the front done and call it a day.
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      08-08-2014, 12:17 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skl007
Who did you use and how is it holding up? I'm looking to get one, but I'm a little hesitant to jump for a kit that replaces the trunk release.

Curious to see how hard it was to install, or how much it cost you to have someone install it, and if you were able to add those dynamic parking lines as well.

For those who also got the front camera, I'd be interested in some info as well. If I'm already doing the rear camera, I might as well just get the front done and call it a day.
Trunk release pops out very easily
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      08-18-2014, 12:24 AM   #3
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I have a front and rear camera.

Both were installed by the previous owner and are working great. I forget the brand, but it was a well known forum vendor who did the install.

Rear camera is built in to the trunk handle.

Only issue I had was a blown fuse that needed to be replaced behind the glove box.
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      08-18-2014, 12:30 PM   #4
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Thanks for the info!
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      08-22-2014, 03:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skl007 View Post
Thanks for the info!
i have no issue with the trunk release. Did the install myself. hardest part was just feeding the wire from the trunk lid to the car down taht small tube. It's straightforward, just need time.
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      09-02-2014, 03:26 AM   #6
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I used the OEM/Factory-Style Trunk/Boot Handle/Opener Reversing/Camera BMW 3-Series E92/E9X from AutoElectronics in the UK:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281190555389...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Cost was $117 USD, which some people would not pay, most tend to go with the cheap $20-$40 versions from China, but I have used products from AE before & am familiar with their quality - plus I am always hesitant to buy items that are very cheap cost - usually there is a reason for the low cost.

Unit replaces the center trunk handle (all though they do sell the license plate/camera units also) which I chose for a more central location for the camera.

It has similar to OEM rubber pad inside the handle that registers with the OEM handle switch. You simply swap the switch from your old handle on to the new unit & it works as OEM...


As far as pulling the wires thru the small accordion boot between the trunk & car - I had no problem as I have experience with these type installs b4. I even had to pull (2) RCA style connectors thru this boot with the AE unit (1 for pic/1 for power).
  • Disconnect both ends of boot
  • Make a small open end hook on a piece of wire coat hanger
  • Push coat hanger thru boot from car side
  • Put line of RCA connector thru loop
  • Bend wire with RCA back on itself and tape up real good with electrical tape so it is secured to coat hanger and all sharp edges are covered. Open end of RCA will then be opposite direction of pull so it will not get caught up on accordion ribs & line is positively secured to coat hanger & will not come loose while pulling
  • Lavishley slather the taped section with White Lithium Grease
  • Collapse accordion of boot till it is @ shortest length (& yielding largest ID)
  • While holding boot in this position & with boot completely straight - pull coat hanger & wire thru from trunk side to car side.

Pulled thru easily in about 5sec for both lines


I wired Ground of camera to behind bolt holding battery hold down bracket to side of car, & Power to Gray (+) Reverse Light feed wire on my LCI Tailights using a 3M Scotchlock 'add a female spade socket' & male spade lug on camera wire for EZ disconnect if ever need be.

Camera pic is hi quality, looks great in Day & Nite (thanks to my Lux LED Reverse LED's ) with no interference lines at all.

If you install a rear camera & result in interference lines on the screen - you will need to wire the camera to power using a 12V Relay instead of how I wired.
  • Install Power wire directly from battery Pos terminal to Relay - make sure to also include an Inline Fuse Holder with 5/10 or 15A fuse in this line
  • Wire from Relay to Ground
  • Wire camera (+) wire to Normally Open terminal of Relay
  • Wire from (+) Reverse light circuit to Relay as Trigger wire

This way, camera power will be isolated & come directly from Battery instead of what may be a 'noisy' Reverse light power feed.

I actually bought a Directed Electronics Relay setup with pre-wired socket/pigtail harness from BestBuy just in case I needed it, but in my case it was not needed...

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/directed...elay&cp=1&lp=9
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      09-13-2014, 12:41 PM   #7
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Is the car already wired for video? How does the video get from the camera to the screen?
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      09-13-2014, 05:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disturbed View Post
Is the car already wired for video? How does the video get from the camera to the screen?
Speak to a vendor and they will sort you out with a complete kit. There are plenty of vendors on this forum. By the way, do a search as there are a lot of DIYs on this subject. In fact there is a detailed thread by Technic.
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      09-16-2014, 08:57 AM   #9
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I purchased the OEM kit from BimmerTech. Great customer service and great product. I installed the rear cam myself on a Saturday, had them code it that afternoon and was up and running. You can buy "fishing wire" off Amazon to help with getting wires through that rubber accordian in the trunk.
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      09-16-2014, 11:23 AM   #10
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I have the alekshop version. Replaces one of the license plate lights. Hardest part by far was feeding the wires through the trunk to car rubber boot. I've been using it for 2 years without a problem. No coding was required, but you do have to take apart the dash by the A/C to install and hide a module.

http://alekshop.com/products/multime..._for_2009_bmws
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      10-19-2014, 11:54 AM   #11
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I also have the alekshop kit. Front and Rear
Previous owner installed, but when I received it, was not working.

I tore the dash apart which was surprisingly easy to see that the power wire had come out of a fuse behind the glovebox. Alekshop provided the install instructions so I could check everything out.

The Rear camera works excellent and requires a module wired to the nav screen. This sits behind the A/C control unit.
The Front camera is almost worthless, since it mounts between the kidney slats, disrupting the view, but oh well. I just back in everywhere.
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      10-23-2014, 03:07 PM   #12
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I have a model by bimmerretrofit and it is working well for almost 2 years. Installed by me, hardest part was passing wires from front to back.
I am installing the NBT kit and a new version of rear-view camera now, will be posting post soon.
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      10-23-2014, 03:14 PM   #13
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I've had the modmynav kit for 2.5 years now and it has worked flawlessly. Never had an issue with it after installation.
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      10-24-2014, 12:30 PM   #14
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I also have the alekshop version front and rear cams. Everything works fine. The only "issue" I have is the rear cam (that replaces a license plate lamp) its loose...almost pops out, but not quite...sort of hangs out a bit on one side. I think I can heat the plastic and re-bend it a bit for a snugger fit, just haven't had the time.
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      10-24-2014, 01:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marksae View Post
I've had the modmynav kit for 2.5 years now and it has worked flawlessly. Never had an issue with it after installation.
+1.
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      10-24-2014, 02:33 PM   #16
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I did one through Bimmer Retrofit. It works fine for the most part. I get a little bit of interference on the screen sometime, usually only if the car has been sitting a while and just started up. Not sure what is causing it but I tried to run the power straight from the battery using a relay like mentioned in one of the post above, and that didn't change anything. So I'm not sure if it is unclean power going to the camera, or the signal from the camera is getting electromagnetic interference or something on the way to the module in the dash. If anyone has any thought on how to resolve, please let me know.

I installed it myself, and it wasn't too bad. Mine has the static back up lines, not the dynamic ones since those weren't available at the time I purchased.
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