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      01-21-2018, 02:31 AM   #1
warp10
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DCT paddle issue

Question for electric gurus.

So the last time I had the car on track the paddle system went down. Had to use the stick.

Now....the paddles wire into a modified steering wheel button harness. We have also wired MDM to be on when the car is on (so the green m mode symbol is on the dash). So in my mind the problem has to be the worksbell paddle system or the electrical connection from the paddles to the modified control harness. Not the modified harness.

Any insight is helpful.
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      01-21-2018, 10:38 AM   #2
inTgr8r
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Not sure how we can reply regarding a modified harness.
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      01-21-2018, 10:40 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
Not sure how we can reply regarding a modified harness.
Modified as in:

We wired the paddles into the right side controls in the OEM location. Then we chopped off the left side. No modification past this.

M button still comes on.
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      01-21-2018, 10:54 AM   #4
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Try some electrical grease. When I had my paddles out on, one didn't connect all the way and this was the fix.
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      01-21-2018, 10:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
Try some electrical grease. When I had my paddles out on, one didn't connect all the way and this was the fix.
This is wired thru and electrical quick release. We did re grease to make sure connections where good. My thoughts are the switches on the paddles went bad. Testing more today.
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      01-22-2018, 11:38 PM   #6
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Switches where dead. Problem solved
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      01-23-2018, 12:13 AM   #7
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thanks for the update
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      02-10-2018, 12:11 PM   #8
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DCT paddle wiring

I’m working on producing a similar setup, and was also planning to use just the right side multifunction button set to process the signals from the paddles. My car apparently never had the M button on the wheel, so I don’t think that will be an option for me - will need to use the one on the center console. When I bought the car, the QR wheel was already installed. DSC has never worked, I suspect because the steering angle sensor needs to be reset, so I’ve just been driving without it. It would be nice to have M-mode and DSC available for the wet, however.

The paddles and the multifunction buttons came with the car, but in a box with all of the plastic harness clips cut off. After more time with a multimeter than I care to admit, I believe I’ve sorted out the wiring pattern.

I’ve figured out the wiring for the shifter paddles:
The left shifter needs wires connected to positions 1 & 2 in the harness that plugs into the multifunction button (MFB) connector, with position 1 being the most superior (or topmost) lead and 2 being the middle connection to ground. This produced a .33K Ohm signal that should trigger a downshift. The right shifter connects to leads 2 and 3 in the MFB harness, with 2=ground and 3 being the lowest, most inferior lead, and producing a 1K Ohm signal (or, rather, a signal of a particular amperage or voltage after passing through a 1K Ohm resistor) that triggers an up shift. Which wire goes where doesn’t matter as it’s just a momentary switch that closes the circuit - the switch won’t care which way the juice is flowing through the wires.


For the harness from the multifunction buttons that plugs into Steering column harness:
Wire 1 = right button set signal
Wire 2 = left button set signal
Wire 3 = button set common
Wire 4 = ground for shifters
Wire 5 = ?? Maybe hot wire feed - I know cars w/o paddle shifters still have this wire, but don’t have wires 4 & 6
Wire 6 = Shifter signal

I think the up/down shift is determined by the ECU (or TCU) processing the signal differences that come from each shifter out through wire 6, just like the various button presses of 8 different buttons are conveyed through just 3 wires by varying the resistors through which the signal passes. The differences between those signals are interpreted further downstream by the computer yielding different actions.

So wires 4 & 6 in the harness that connects to the steering column need to be hooked up for shifting functions. I believe this could be accomplished with only the right sided buttons. Connect one wire from the left shifter to the top wire (red wire 1 in diagram) and the other to the middle (ground). For the right shifter, connect one wire to the bottom wire (red wire 3 in diagram) and the other to the middle ground wire.

I’d welcome the feedback of others who have been through this before. This is my first post, and I can’t figure out how to embed images at particular points in the text, so I’m hoping they all show up at the bottom.

Edit: ignore the numbers on the white electrical tape in the final photo. The one that is labeled with a 1 on the tape is actually wire 6 in the harness, and the one labeled 3 is actually 4 in the harness. The tape was applied before I knew the wire sequence in the harness (you know, no harness on it when I was first messing with the multimeter and I numbered them backwards; 1=6, 2=5, 3=4, 4=3, 5=2, 6=1.) I’ve relabeled them, but car and all wiring is 2 hrs away at a shop getting a full cage - hence the need for the detachable steering wheel, so I can’t snap another photo for you.

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Last edited by VicS5; 02-10-2018 at 12:28 PM. Reason: Added 1 more photo
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      02-18-2018, 10:41 PM   #9
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I currently have a quick release (with electrical) set up similar to what's been discussed here. All paddle wiring is through the right side switch. Worked great for a week or two, but I think I've damaged either the switch or the szl/column switch by disconnecting the wheel w the car running.

I have tried changing out the column switch with a known good used unit, but I am confused as to how to "program" it for my car. Any advice appreciated.

I can confirm that your logic for wiring the paddles is solid. I can take pics of my setup if that helps.
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      02-18-2018, 10:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich22 View Post
I currently have a quick release (with electrical) set up similar to what's been discussed here. All paddle wiring is through the right side switch. Worked great for a week or two, but I think I've damaged either the switch or the szl/column switch by disconnecting the wheel w the car running.

I have tried changing out the column switch with a known good used unit, but I am confused as to how to "program" it for my car. Any advice appreciated.

I can confirm that your logic for wiring the paddles is solid. I can take pics of my setup if that helps.
Never had a problem pulling the wheel off.

But I could guess you shorted something it a connector arched.

If anyone is looking at this modification I would suggest the KMP wheel. Literally 1 hr install and plug n play. It is expensive but save the hour cost of modifications and redue like I did.
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      02-19-2018, 09:58 AM   #11
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Is there a way to test the right hand button/switch itself?
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