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05-14-2012, 09:20 AM | #67 |
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05-14-2012, 11:38 AM | #68 | |
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05-15-2012, 11:24 AM | #69 |
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Even if you can get it started, it tears easily.
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05-19-2012, 09:17 AM | #71 |
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One week after one lap the car is completely filthy. My daughter and I peeled away at the coating - it was fun for the first 15 minutes - well she could have kept peeling - she love it. I took the pressure washer and took the coating off very easily.
Here's how it looks: I had it detailed just before I put on the coating and now it's just as clean as if it was just detailed. I used no soap or sponge! here are the wheels before: (notice I started it a little before I snapped a picture) after a few passes of the pressure washer I left lots of the coating all over the ground. Notice the front wheels have the film removed. The rear still has it on - it was matte black from 5000 miles of brake dust! |
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10-09-2012, 03:46 PM | #72 | |
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10-09-2012, 03:48 PM | #73 |
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So far no one has posted pics but the first person. What happened to everyone who supposedly ordered this stuff. Doesnt make me too confident. I might order plastidip in the clear compressed can for my track day. Supposed to peel off in the same form.
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10-09-2012, 06:19 PM | #75 |
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I haven't tried it on the track but I posted my experience regarding using it to make your car look matte. I think it will work well on the track but I wouldn't use it on the street to simulate a matte finish because it doesn't give a consistent and even finish.
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10-09-2012, 07:59 PM | #77 |
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10-10-2012, 09:35 AM | #78 | |
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Quote:
http://www.madshadowcustompaint.com/rwp.htm
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10-10-2012, 12:14 PM | #79 |
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Ordered the paintshield 5720. Dont care how it looks once on the car. $25 to protect the front of the Carrera GT and Ford GT will be well worth it. Going to the track in a week and its out in the desert. lots of rocks. Clear bra price would have been $1000+ and dont have the time let the guy take my car for 2 days. Even with a clear bra I would have to buff the rubber off. This would be the easiest to remove and be done with it! Will let you guys know how it works out!
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Last edited by Optherion; 10-10-2012 at 12:36 PM.. |
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10-10-2012, 12:37 PM | #80 | |
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10-10-2012, 01:43 PM | #81 |
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quick google search led to this. just a guess tho.
" Optherion, Inc., a recently formed company that intends to develop diagnostic tools ... at the Jules Stein Eye Institute at UCLA in Los Angeles" (2008)
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10-10-2012, 03:04 PM | #82 | |
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10-11-2012, 09:28 AM | #83 |
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hmm... frozen phoenix yellow...
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12-10-2012, 09:42 AM | #84 |
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I still havent had any time to write a full review or take photos but I will detail the best I can.
1. For visits to the track, I will only use Paintshield 5720 for as long as I live. These guys have a gem of a product they dont even market to racers. 2. I applied 1 coat at first with a hair paint brush ( all I had) in a spot to test. It evens out very very well considering there were tons of brush strokes! It goes on like elmers white school glue you used when you were a kid. With all the brush strokes its evens out nearly perfect. The first coat had a few bubbles because I did not mix the can well. After better mixing and then allowing the can to sit and release the bubbles you get a very good finish. The directions say you can use a spray gun, but I would highly avoid that. You do not want this anywhere near your brakes, or radiator. Overspray would be a bitch with this stuff as it is latex based. I suppose if you were covering a huge boat (as the product is intended for) Then I would use a spray gun. A roller works perfect. 3. The finish: When I peeled off the first layer, I had a 1x1 foot sheet. It is identical to saran-wrap. Comes off very easy once you lift an edge. After I peeled the sheet up I still had small splatter marks of left over paint material. A car wash mit and some soap during a wash made it fall right off. With only 1 layer, the stuff came off instantly when it got wet. 4. Looks: Its about 95% see through. When you put the first layer on the car, it does make the car look like its had about 100k miles on the paint, but no where near a matte (frozen) finish. A frozen finish would need about 3-4 layers and need a foam roller. I found using different rollers left a different finish. If you want the frozen look, use a foam roller as the little holes will leave a ton of texture on the car. Apply very thin amounts. If you want a more clear finish, use a high density polyester roll. Apply a bit heavier and the material will even itself out. Remember, when you paint a wall in your house, the paint soaks in. This stuff does not soak in to the paint and will go a LONG ways! After 2 layers its starts to get hazy. I would recommend 3 layers for the most protection possible and also makes for the easiest peel off. When 3 layers gets wet, its takes a bit longer for it to come off. I applied 1 layer the first time at the track and it nearly came off the hood from the over spray of using my windshield washer fluid lol. 3 Coats and make sure to really overlap edges. I bought a $20 can (I think that was the price). I have used it now for 6 track days and still have half a can left. My current procedure is wash car day before. Let dry a day. Next night before track apply first coat to hood, bumper, fenders, lowers of door. Let dry about one hour. 2nd coat for hood and front bumper. Done. Total time applying product: Less that 20 minutes. You do not need to be detail orientated with this stuff. Just avoid getting it on mesh and the grill up front. I will try to get a video of how easy this stuff is to peel off. Literally all the black tire rubber chunks, bugs, and everything on the car you can see on the paintshield when you hold it up to the sun. I have a run to Vegas this week in the CGT and I have no doubt I am going to take about 20 minutes and cover the front hood for the drive over and the track day there. The product is perfect for me because I love the look of a paint corrected car. I hate paying $800 or stupid prices for a clear bra. All of my cars are near flawless. I have had every type of clear bra, and while they help for every day driving they still start to bother me after about 6 months when you can see the line or edges get wax buildup, lint, and dirt. A clear bra will protect from around town damage, but most my cars don't even see 3k miles a year and 99% of the damage is rock pitting and chips from track days. Put paintshield on, race, remove, and its clean. No need to scrub the black rubber off the paint or clear bra. Great for temporary applications and absolutely worth its price. PS: That previous link for road warrior plus with the motorcyle and demo videos looks like a very similar product at double the price of Paintshield 5720. Go with Paintsheild. I already gave some stuff to my Harley buddy's as they are going on a 1500 mile ride. He coated all 10 of their bikes front, saddle bags and the chrome forks. Came home and took it off. Looks like brand new and not once sand or rock marks in the chrome. I literally saved them a combined 10 hours of cleaning lol.
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12-29-2012, 09:32 PM | #86 |
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I got a can too, looking forward to trying it out in March. If a guy with a Porsche GT will chance his paint with it, I think I'll be fine with trying it on the M
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12-29-2012, 09:37 PM | #87 |
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