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12-02-2009, 10:35 AM | #1 |
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easy upgrade for HIFI system
i had started getting the audio upgrade itch
so first thing i did was replace the front tweeters its easy and you don't need to pull off the door trim if you want to desolder the OEM tweeter and solder in the new tweeter next step; AMP! i bought a used soundstream on ebay as i am a little partial to them it accepts balanded inputs so no need for a line output converter i tried buying a used E46 amp to use the socket that accepts the OEM plug that has all the speaker wires, power etc but its damn hard to solder when the pins are so close so i just pulled out all the pins i need from the OEM plug (i wrote down where each one goes so i can take the car back to stock) and just attached wires that hook up to the soundstream i have 50 watts RMS per channel to front and rear and 50 watts RMS to the OEM subs and it definetly sounds better, much punchier, treble is way better if you want a simple upgrade, you can't beat this just an amp and tweeters if you want more volume then you have to change the underseat subs first as i think they will blow if you give them more than 50 watts next step for me is to find a way to mount a 10" subwoofer onto a baffle board that fires through the ski hatch |
12-02-2009, 03:37 PM | #2 | |
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12-02-2009, 03:43 PM | #3 |
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soundstream Reference 405s
yes, i think more power did improve the mids i can hear the snap of the snare drum, its punchier now honestly, if i didn't need more power, it sounds good as it is i bought a set of used logic 7 speakers as i'd like to lower the crossover point for the door speakers i'm using 120 now, and i'm hoping i can take it down to 90hz or so with the logic 7 speakers i will only replace the front door ones, don't really care about the rear as much i paid $200 for the soundstream incl shipping i am going to mount it to the OEM amp mount but i will need the trim panel for the cars with the changer due to the extra height i have it mounted diagonally the lower half towards the center of the car |
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12-02-2009, 03:46 PM | #4 |
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90 might be kind of pushing it but I'd like to know the outcome of that since I would want to try the same thing once I actually get around to installing the stuff I have. Staring at the equipment in the box for 4 months is not so fun.
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12-03-2009, 10:45 AM | #6 |
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i am using what, in my humble opinion, are the best tweeters ever designed by man.
Infinity EMITs they are planar electro-magnetic induction they go up to about 40khz,they sound amazing very clear you can actually fit any tweeter you want in the sail panel the plastic guide for the OEM tweeter is removable you just have to pull hard and the glue comes off so you are left with the surround and the grill just stick anything you want and the foam backing keeps it in place |
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12-05-2009, 09:05 PM | #7 |
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12-06-2009, 02:43 AM | #8 |
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What's the slope of the x-over? I'm wondering if I could push 100 if I increase the slope to 18 or 24db/oct.
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12-06-2009, 09:02 AM | #9 | |
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that's a good idea using 18 or 24 in my case i am limited by the amp its 12db for high pass and 24db for low pass although you'd think it should be the reverse you need higher slopes to protect midranges/tweeters from bass frequencies woofers won't blow if they get a little midrange signal |
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12-14-2009, 10:08 PM | #10 | |
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i realized the buzzing was not the speaker it sounded like something vibrating against the speaker sure enough, when i took the OEM grills off i noticed the sound was not from the speaker my guess is the foam water shield that is glued to the door frame is vibrating against the back of the speaker keep in mind the OEM woofers have a very small circumference magnet so they go into the recess int he foam shield the logic 7 have a much larger magnet, so more contact area with the foam shield when i tried pushing the speaker rim in the vibration stopped and my crossover was set to 60hz!! so will try to use the soft side of velcro stuck to the back of the speaker since that will illiminate the rattling |
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