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09-21-2010, 09:10 PM | #23 | |
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The point of the scissors lift is mainly for convenience. Sure, I could waste time playing around with boards, multiple jacks, running around from corner-to-corner, etc. Or, I can just park my car over a lift and push a button when I want to work on it. Eliminating any tests of torsional rigidity is a side bonus. Also, I'm not about to swap trannies out on a car that's still under warranty. Finally, in the old days (probably before YOUR time), cars didn't need jacking points because they had frames. Jacking points came about mainly as a result of unibody construction. PS - Do you race Spec Miata? If so, who built your car?
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09-21-2010, 09:23 PM | #24 | |
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If you somehow think your car's operating life is shortened by being jacked up, don't even bother driving your car. And what are you trying to say about race cars? These race cars are subjected to a tremendous amount of static, dynamic, and impact loads that are way beyond what our cars are designed for. That's why they are replaced after a few seasons (and the sponsors pay for it). Can you pull a lateral 1.5G every corner? |
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09-21-2010, 09:51 PM | #25 | |
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This is the "track" section of this forum, so I suspect most here are more in-tune with their cars than those who spend the majority of their form time in the "cosmetic section (not that there's anything wrong with that). If you're like me, you take every opportunity to track your car you can get. Since I instruct with several organizations, opportunity knocks often After many years of tracking one car, you start to notice things that aren't right, and wouldn't be present if it werent for years of track use. Pulling 1.5g in every corner is entirly possible, especially with r-comp tires. Anyway... I used to build and race cars, including a national championship winning car, so I know about what all they're subject to, and I know that details do matter. Not trying to start a "know-it-all" war, just trying to illustrate where I'm coming from. Cheers,
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09-22-2010, 12:37 AM | #27 | |
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For those times when "size matters" |
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09-22-2010, 07:39 AM | #28 |
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I did for several years. I built my first car, my second car's rolling chassis (in the signature) was purchased from Bob Stretch at Wheels America (for pennies compared to what I spent on the first one!) and I put it together with the leftovers from the first car.
Now I have a Spec Racer Ford. It's nice not trying to be trying to make elephants dance anymore, so to speak. Even one of the best production racecar platforms was still pretty frustrating to deal with because of all the compromises.
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Last edited by Richbot; 09-22-2010 at 07:45 AM.. |
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09-22-2010, 07:45 AM | #29 | |
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09-22-2010, 07:46 AM | #30 | |
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09-22-2010, 10:16 AM | #31 | |
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I prefer the SRF for a few reasons. 1) It's faster, and I wanna go fast. 2) It's a real racecar, which means it rewards precision and penalizes mistakes more than the Spec Miata which often requires "unnatural acts" to get it to respond, especially mid-corner, and the suspension has real dampers on it instead of a factory non-adjustable Bilstein with factory valving :bleh: 3) It's Spec, for real. Spec Miata is a class populated with two different chassis, 5 different engines, and all of the complicated parity issues that go along with it. The cars are closer than ever but you're never going to get them 100% equal at every track, though they are VERY close. I bought a pretty good used SRF with a good history and ran at the Sprints this year against some of the best in the country, and the car was every bit as good and capable of winning as those cars, even with my clueless driving at my 2nd event in the car. It took me years to get to that point in the SM, and all I had to do in the SRF was go out and buy one with a good pedigree. Track record holder at Road America and I were neck and neck down the whole front straight during our battle for 7th out of 45 cars. If the TR holder and me have basically equal acceleration at one of the biggest drag strips in American road courses, well, that's Spec enough for me. 4) The CSR program. Need a part? Odds are good if you're at a National event, the CSR can help you. Can't troubleshoot a problem? The CSR can help too. Want to race at a track that's far away but don't want to drag your car there? Call the track's local CSR and he can probably hook you up with a rental in a competitive car. Spec Miata has a more "shadetree" feel to it which can be good and bad. I still maintain that Spec Miata is the best way to get into club racing in America today. My car was cheaper to build than a new SRF by a factor of four, and a good used SM is cheaper than a pedigreed SRF by about half. That's big money when you're just getting started and aren't sure if you want to make a huge investment, and you still get every bit as intense competition in SM.
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09-22-2010, 10:21 AM | #32 | |
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09-22-2010, 10:54 AM | #33 | |
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09-22-2010, 02:56 PM | #35 | |
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It's a very capable piece of gear and saves a ton of time when you have to do a little prep work for a track day. Yesterday after work I headed out to the garage at around 6 PM and changed all four tires, the front brake pads and reset the front camber. I was back in the kitchen checking on dinner at 7:05. You run it up and down with a hefty sized electric drill (they don't recommend a battery unit, but I've done it). The design is brilliant and it weighs about 120 pounds. It rolls around on casters. I store mine off to the side or under the car if I'm not going to be drving it for a while. http://www.ezcarlift.com/ |
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09-22-2010, 03:09 PM | #36 |
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Thanks for the info JAJ, don't worry about comments on this site. Most care more about the fitment of their body kit than tools and performance it seems. Been following your AP thread and just requested a quote for when the car gets here in Nov.
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09-22-2010, 03:18 PM | #37 |
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You're welcome. The comments don't bother me at all, but I was concerned that slag would possibly stick to the company that makes the unit. The website is a bit hoaky, but the product is first-rate and Boytcho, the guy that runs it all, is great to deal with.
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09-22-2010, 06:11 PM | #38 |
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This is also an option for DIYers. Entire system can be unbolted in 15 minutes and be stored in a closet.
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/more-v...e-lift-system/ |
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09-22-2010, 07:10 PM | #40 |
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09-22-2010, 10:10 PM | #41 |
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See link. It is 1000, plus they issue 20% off coupons, making it 800.
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09-24-2010, 12:28 PM | #42 | |
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At $2k, I think they are asking too much. Maybe we can talk them down if we get enough people together. Also, any issues with rolling over it (collapsed unit spec is 4")? Or do you just roll it under the car from the side? If so, what is its height on rollers? I'm asking because there won't be enough space in my garage for rolling it under the car from the side.
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09-24-2010, 02:01 PM | #43 |
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Count me in if we can get another GB together.
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09-24-2010, 02:29 PM | #44 |
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