2008 E92 M3 Brake Rotors Warping

[rfowlerm3]

Originally Posted by mrad01

Add me to the list. Mine is a 08 e90 M3 and have had 2 sets of new front rotors. The last time, the dealership made sure they were revised part codes and changed the rears too.

(BTW, I've had a brand new 2011 engine put in and a new rear exhaust. The original 2008 engine developed a knocking at startup and the rear exhaust started rattling at around 2900rpm)

Everything under warranty. (I demanded an extra year on my warranty - which they extended) Car is awesome now....

How many miles have you done and have you had any problems since the revised rotors were fitted?

[Lorde]

I just experienced this problem with my 2008 M3 Sedan. They changed the pads up front under warranty because the pad sensors were rubbing against the brakes. Now i'm getting harsh vibration applying brakes (light to moderate pedal pressure) at speeds over 40mph.

Taking it into the dealer tomorrow.

[Lorde]

Originally Posted by Snig

I just experienced this problem with my 2008 M3 Sedan. They changed the pads up front under warranty because the pad sensors were rubbing against the brakes. Now i'm getting harsh vibration applying brakes (light to moderate pedal pressure) at speeds over 40mph.

Taking it into the dealer tomorrow.

2000 miles of use, all highway, and the dealer is going to replace the rotors and pads up front under warranty. No questions asked. They said the rotors should not have looked like they did (they found some sort of surface flaws) and would replace them when they got the parts in, 2 days.

I brought up the part number change on the 2009 and newer M3's brakes. Can anyone confirm the change? Tischer maybe?

[psm3007]

I have only put less than 10000 miles on my pre-owned 2008 M3. I have replaced my rotors twice due to warping. I only drive to work and back and have not had any race track time with my car.

Now for the Third time it's in the BMW dealership with another warped rotor. They told me that the rotor had turned blue in color. I just replaced the rotor 4 weeks ago! Also they told me that i need to replace all 4 tires to stop the vibrations i've been feeling on my steering wheel. The tires were brand new 10000 miles ago! Going Nuts!

[psm3007]

@ rfowlerm3 - Did you get the rotor situation resolved? Having the same problem and needing my rotor replaced again for the third time in less than 10000 miles!

[M3PO]

Did you read this thread? Obviously not.

[Adriansideways]

What does your rotors look like? Are there round blue spots on your disks? If you have them they are heat spots and it is due to overheating and its the metal structure that changed due to heat and causes high spots. This wil judder! Remember its better to brake harder for shorter time than softer for a longer time espesially at speed. Also avoid driving through water puddles when brakes are hot. This will cause warping!

[Adriansideways]

Also sounds like you are getting vibrations during normal driving? Do you do handbrake turnes? This will cause small flat spots on your rear tires and cause lots of vibration. You say your rotors are blue? That is overheating. If you drive hard without picking up lots of speed and you reaply your brakes continuously you will cause overheating, or obviously track sessions. If you drive and find this problem do you have passengers? Brakes do not like weight combined with speed.

[Adriansideways]

You should also look at your pads. When you took them off were they shiney? If they were its because the brake compound actually melted. When this occured you would have experianced brake fade. Replace your pads with high performance pads that can handle more heat like endless or simular. Hope this helps!

[psm3007]

Originally Posted by Adriansideways

You should also look at your pads. When you took them off were they shiney? If they were its because the brake compound actually melted. When this occured you would have experianced brake fade. Replace your pads with high performance pads that can handle more heat like endless or simular. Hope this helps!

Sorry been busy! Well! I paid $ 1900 for a new set of OEM rotors from my dealership. After 3000K the car started shaking agian! Note!!!! 4th time in less than 13K. I took the car to a brake specialist near work because highly recommended. After 2 days of testing! The result was BMW dealership kept torquing the wheels to tight. Pads and calipers were fine (Already new that since new ones were installed in my previous visit) After paying $ 1200 for new rotors and $1300 for 4 new tires (Tirerack.com Highly recommended). The car is now running fine. The BMW dealership were torquing the wheel over 91 FT Lbs and was told 87 to 89 FT Lbs is recommended. Oh Well! I hope this works because my M3 is becoming a money pit! If virbrations happen again.....selling the car to CarMax!!

[smmmurf]

Bump. Can anybody confirm the new part numbers on the rotors?

[IS350]

Originally Posted by vm

What I would do is to make a series of stops from 60 mph or so, hard but not so hard as to have ABS activation. 10 stops or so will do and check afterwards. Be sure also to have the lug bolts torqued evenly (using a torque wrench). If the pulsing continues then the problem was warped rotors. If it disappears, deposits or something like that are the problem. You should also check the front wheels for balance. With these big wheels bad balance sometimes feel like warped rotors.

Any other suggestions about ways to determine whether the rotor is ruined or whether it just has excess brake pad residue on it? I'm noticing heavy steering wheel shake during braking after some heavy braking on a performance driving program.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by IS350

Any other suggestions about ways to determine whether the rotor is ruined or whether it just has excess brake pad residue on it? I'm noticing heavy steering wheel shake during braking after some heavy braking on a performance driving program.

i was told that my brake rotors were warped by the dealer. the worst they had seen in fact. didnt believe them and thought it was melted OEM pad material as i had tracked the car several times on stock pads. extreme shudder under braking and my tech inspector didnt want to pass me for BMWCCA events because of it. changed to higher temp dual purpose pad. shudder went away and i am still on the same rotors and have run 4-5 sets of pads ds2500s and pagid rs19s without ever having the issue again.

[vm]

Originally Posted by IS350

Any other suggestions about ways to determine whether the rotor is ruined or whether it just has excess brake pad residue on it? I'm noticing heavy steering wheel shake during braking after some heavy braking on a performance driving program.

You can also measure runout with a dial indicator but this is probably a tool you dont have in your garage.

[Porschefile]

Originally Posted by IS350

Any other suggestions about ways to determine whether the rotor is ruined or whether it just has excess brake pad residue on it? I'm noticing heavy steering wheel shake during braking after some heavy braking on a performance driving program.

Either put on some track pads and drive for a few hard braking tests, which should clear it, or remove the rotors and use an abrasive cleaning pad like brillo with soap and water.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by Porschefile

Either put on some track pads and drive for a few hard braking tests, which should clear it, or remove the rotors and use an abrasive cleaning pad like brillo with soap and water.

tried the second with no results. first option way better. now OEM pads are paper weights.

[TXmtrhed]

I've had no luck with using abrasive pads on a drill. Using some track pads did the trick.

[Porschefile]

Oh I totally agree track pads are a better option, but the other option is $2-3 and track pads are $200+

[1MOREMOD]

I'm confused how anyone is warping their rotor driving to and from work. I have tracked the crap out of my car with race pads and the rotors are fine. Only issue is they are worn down to minimum thickness. No way on the street are people doing 140 down to 70 every 2 minutes as well as several other hard brake applications during that same interval.

[ortho281]

Originally Posted by chriszeh

i was told that my brake rotors were warped by the dealer. the worst they had seen in fact. didnt believe them and thought it was melted OEM pad material as i had tracked the car several times on stock pads. extreme shudder under braking and my tech inspector didnt want to pass me for BMWCCA events because of it. changed to higher temp dual purpose pad. shudder went away and i am still on the same rotors and have run 4-5 sets of pads ds2500s and pagid rs19s without ever having the issue again.

I had the same issue and after switching to different pads the vibration went away.

Originally Posted by chriszeh

I'm confused how anyone is warping their rotor driving to and from work. I have tracked the crap out of my car with race pads and the rotors are fine. Only issue is they are worn down to minimum thickness. No way on the street are people doing 140 down to 70 every 2 minutes as well as several other hard brake applications during that same interval.

I was thinking the same thing. I track regularly also and my rotors are worn but not warped.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by ortho281

I had the same issue and after switching to different pads the vibration went away.



I was thinking the same thing. I track regularly also and my rotors are worn but not warped.

first seem like a ploy to sell dopes new rotors. I will still get deposits once in a while when i am forced to come off without a cool off lap like a red flag situation but clears up again shortly. i know in my case i also at first wasnt careful enough about not applying brakes in the pits. i like to roll it forward or back while sitting so i dont get hot spot that way either now.

[ortho281]

Originally Posted by chriszeh

first seem like a ploy to sell dopes new rotors. I will still get deposits once in a while when i am forced to come off without a cool off lap like a red flag situation but clears up again shortly. i know in my case i also at first wasnt careful enough about not applying brakes in the pits. i like to roll it forward or back while sitting so i dont get hot spot that way either now.

I agree, the dealers may just be drumming up business. I find that some pads are more likely to leave deposits than others. I have switched from using PFC z-rated (street) and PFC-06 (track) to using StopTech street performance for both Street/Track. They hold up well to track use (MOT of 1300 F), have good cold friction (street) and are quiet. My only complaint is the StopTech only last about 6 track days. When summer rolls around, I will switch back to the PFC-06 for the track.