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      02-21-2017, 08:53 AM   #1
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Broadway Static 500S - Rebound Delay

A little background:

I purchased my Broadway Static 500S coilovers with 16k/20k Swift spring upgrade about 15k miles ago. Both fronts and rears are set @ 18 out of 22 from full stiff. The car is fairly low:



The concern:

When I take a high speed corner and hit a bump or slight road elevation change in the middle of the corner, my car delays in the turn. What I mean is, it almost straightens out for a split second, and then continues with the turn.

I feel this is concerning the 'slowness' of the rebound.

Is there any kind of adjustment to combat this?
- Raise ride height?
- Stiffen dampers (more clicks)?
- Stiffer springs?
- Upgrade to 2-way canisters?

I know the 500S isn't the most high-performance oriented setup, but feel this should not be an issue on any quality coilover.
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      02-21-2017, 11:26 AM   #2
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Really hard to understand what you mean with the "straightens out then continues" but it sort of sounds like its a little loose or soft in the front?
are your tires good? could it be slight understeer?


1st Double check your sway bar end links, (and that they are installed correctly)my E93 links kept bending or the tab would break off, because the car was too low, and when one of them breaks or snaps off, the front end feels very loose, it'll still drive fine but less front end control.

2nd I would check alignment, if you did not get an alignment after lowering it your alignment could be off, it could be off if you made any adjustments to camber too.

3rd one of your shocks could be blown(check for oil leak in the wheel well)
lower end coil overs tend to blow shocks when riding super low/aggressively.

That's all I can think of right now, if it's not making any noises or clinking and your sway bar isn't loose.
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      02-21-2017, 11:43 AM   #3
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It's tough to explain.

Imagine going around a big sweeping on ramp at 80, hitting a bump in the turn and as you hit the bump, the suspension travels upward and then quickly jerks to the direction your turning.

Don't know how else better to explain it. It wasn't this pronounced with the OEM EDC setup.

1. I will have my shop check the endlinks. The front end really isn't loose, however.

2. Alignment was done by a professional at the time of coilover install.

3. Doubt it's a blown shock as it's been doing this since day 1. Broadway's struts are specifically shortened so that they can handle extremely low ride heights.

My concern is that the front are already at 18/22 clicks, and worried if I go an higher, the struts will wear faster. Maybe I just need to turn them up a few more notches...
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      02-21-2017, 11:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noremaC View Post
It's tough to explain.

Imagine going around a big sweeping on ramp at 80, hitting a bump in the turn and as you hit the bump, the suspension travels upward and then quickly jerks to the direction your turning.

Don't know how else better to explain it. It wasn't this pronounced with the OEM EDC setup.

1. I will have my shop check the endlinks. The front end really isn't loose, however.

2. Alignment was done by a professional at the time of coilover install.

3. Doubt it's a blown shock as it's been doing this since day 1. Broadway's struts are specifically shortened so that they can handle extremely low ride heights.

My concern is that the front are already at 18/22 clicks, and worried if I go an higher, the struts will wear faster. Maybe I just need to turn them up a few more notches...
Oh yes, I get it now! My 350z used to do that when I was riding on Megans, definitely bump steer, coilover quality comes into play with that 100%.
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      02-21-2017, 12:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GabeS View Post
Oh yes, I get it now! My 350z used to do that when I was riding on Megans, definitely bump steer, coilover quality comes into play with that 100%.
So there is a technical term! Bump steer huh.

Curious as to if others have combated this on these coilovers.

Maybe time for a change? Although, doesn't seem like a $2k coilover setup should have this issue.
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      02-21-2017, 01:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noremaC View Post
So there is a technical term! Bump steer huh.

Curious as to if others have combated this on these coilovers.

Maybe time for a change? Although, doesn't seem like a $2k coilover setup should have this issue.
I didn't know they were that much, wow. my Fortune autos msrp is $1500 but I got them for $1100 new. they ride very well.

Did you get the shocks custom valved for stiffer springs?

There are some people who are suspension tuning experts, they balance all 4 corners and adjust the rates and height, could be worth a try, usually costs about $400.
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      02-21-2017, 01:32 PM   #7
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http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-...eer-explained/

What Creates Bumpsteer When the tie rod is not aligned with the IC and/or the length is wrong for the system, we have B/S. As the wheel moves vertically, the wheel will either steer left or right. We will refer to the direction from a driver’s perspective only, in this discussion.to

If the tie rod was pointed so the tie-rod line passes below the IC, then the wheel will bump-in (toward the centerline of the car) as the wheel travels up, and bump-out when the wheel travels down. If the tie-rod line passes over the IC, then we will have bump-out as the wheel travels up, and bump-in when the wheel travels down.

If the tie rod were too short, we would have bumpsteer in when the wheel travels in both directions from the static ride height position. If it were too long, then the wheel would bump-out as the wheel traveled in both directions from ride height.

These indicators can tell us if we have either a tie rod alignment problem or a tie rod length problem. In some cases, both may be present and that causes a very erratic motion of the wheel. To determine which, record each inch for several inches of travel in both directions from static ride height and note the tendencies. You might have perfect alignment and a tie rod that is wrong for length. This could be due to a poorly designed drag link or the wrong width rack-and-pinion steering unit.
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      02-21-2017, 02:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GabeS View Post
I didn't know they were that much, wow. my Fortune autos msrp is $1500 but I got them for $1100 new. they ride very well.

Did you get the shocks custom valved for stiffer springs?

There are some people who are suspension tuning experts, they balance all 4 corners and adjust the rates and height, could be worth a try, usually costs about $400.
Yeah they're a little more than that.

$1349 for standard 500S
$350 for swift springs
$80 for radial bearings
$xxx for custom valving (don't remember).

Quote:
Originally Posted by GabeS View Post
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-...eer-explained/

What Creates Bumpsteer When the tie rod is not aligned with the IC and/or the length is wrong for the system, we have B/S. As the wheel moves vertically, the wheel will either steer left or right. We will refer to the direction from a driverís perspective only, in this discussion.to

If the tie rod was pointed so the tie-rod line passes below the IC, then the wheel will bump-in (toward the centerline of the car) as the wheel travels up, and bump-out when the wheel travels down. If the tie-rod line passes over the IC, then we will have bump-out as the wheel travels up, and bump-in when the wheel travels down.

If the tie rod were too short, we would have bumpsteer in when the wheel travels in both directions from the static ride height position. If it were too long, then the wheel would bump-out as the wheel traveled in both directions from ride height.

These indicators can tell us if we have either a tie rod alignment problem or a tie rod length problem. In some cases, both may be present and that causes a very erratic motion of the wheel. To determine which, record each inch for several inches of travel in both directions from static ride height and note the tendencies. You might have perfect alignment and a tie rod that is wrong for length. This could be due to a poorly designed drag link or the wrong width rack-and-pinion steering unit.
Greatly appreciate the explanation here.

Honestly, I believe it's due to ride height (low). The front did come with extended tie-rods, so I'm not using the OE units. I don't think camber is too crazy - less than -3deg on the front and -2.5deg on the rear.

I'm planning on raising both the front and back (.5-1in), realigning and then playing with the damping settings. I've seriously gone at least 3 front under trays since last April
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      02-21-2017, 04:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noremaC View Post
I'm planning on raising both the front and back (.5-1in), realigning and then playing with the damping settings. I've seriously gone at least 3 front under trays since last April
I just tore my under tray out lol .. it wont last a week.
did you mean sway bar end links?
I thought all aftermarket coils came with shorter or longer end links
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      02-21-2017, 06:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GabeS View Post
I just tore my under tray out lol .. it wont last a week.
did you mean sway bar end links?
I thought all aftermarket coils came with shorter or longer end links
It's amazing to me there isn't a more durable aftermarket replacement. I'm done spending $350 each time. Plus reinstalling is a pain in my ass.

And yes, coil end links. Not sway end links.

Going the easiest route with a slight raise and new alignment. We'll see what happens.
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      02-21-2017, 08:45 PM   #11
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I learned a while back, at least in the world of suspension the old saying "you get what you pay for" is very true. I've been in the same boat as you and it sucks. I've gone with budget suspensions and while they look 'cool' by dropping the car, in the end, the performance suffered.

Best of luck!
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      02-22-2017, 11:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elim11 View Post
I learned a while back, at least in the world of suspension the old saying "you get what you pay for" is very true. I've been in the same boat as you and it sucks. I've gone with budget suspensions and while they look 'cool' by dropping the car, in the end, the performance suffered.

Best of luck!
While I agree it's not the highest performance kit, and may be considered 'budget' in the grand scheme of things - I don't think there should be such a massive flaw in performance. That, or I'm just in denial

Going to play with ride height, re-alignment and see where that leaves me. Only set me back $100 and a few hours of adjusting the coils.

If that doesn't cut it, I've been eyeing a set of Ohlins.

Live and you learn, I guess.
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      02-22-2017, 05:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noremaC View Post
While I agree it's not the highest performance kit, and may be considered 'budget' in the grand scheme of things - I don't think there should be such a massive flaw in performance. That, or I'm just in denial

Going to play with ride height, re-alignment and see where that leaves me. Only set me back $100 and a few hours of adjusting the coils.

If that doesn't cut it, I've been eyeing a set of Ohlins.

Live and you learn, I guess.
Thats the spirit. Fortunately/unfortunately for me I've lived and learned too many times. Good luck.
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