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      01-27-2016, 11:06 AM   #67
G80indy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeM3SSII
Quote:
Originally Posted by 330indy View Post
Only if that oil in the crankcase is dirty, tired and nasty !
As opposed to clean and fresh
It's not about oil being dirty but loosing its lubricity properties. E10 dilution in the oil will do, and not driving the car on a couple of hours of continuous drives weekly. After the engine oil is warm it takes hours to evaporate all the ethanol dilution that can accumulate in the oil. It's not just about getting oil to temp.

translate and read..
"E10 harms engine oil"
Fresh oil has headroom to deal with this.
I tire of hearing the penny wise and pound foolish advocation of extended OCIs.
That is my point.
I fully understand burning it off with long drives.
That is why short commutes are "severe service" and short OCIs are needed for the majority of M daily drivers in the US.
But don't discount the dirt in oil either! It's a major factor in bearing wear especially when the oil is saturated with fuel and acids.
Change your oil!
Often
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      01-27-2016, 11:33 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 330indy View Post
Fresh oil has headroom to deal with this.
I tire of hearing the penny wise and pound foolish advocation of extended OCIs.
That is my point.
I fully understand burning it off with long drives.
That is why short commutes are "severe service" and short OCIs are needed for the majority of M daily drivers in the US.
But don't discount the dirt in oil either! It's a major factor in bearing wear especially when the oil is saturated with fuel and acids.
Change your oil!
Often
Count me in as a firm believer here mate. Keep the oil fresh!
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      01-27-2016, 12:11 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeM3SSII View Post
If you do short trips, sit in traffic and do not run the car for long duration bouts it will accumulate substantial fuel (+ethanol) in the oil between oil changes. That is not debatable. (No, Blackstone told me they cannot detect ethanol directly in the oil if you wondered)
Blackstone can detect fuel in the UOA, if there was "substantial" amount of ethanol, there would be a "substantial" amount of fuel also in a lot of the UOA posted here. Pretty sure we haven't seen any reports with extremely high fuel content that wasn't accounted for, but if this is as wide spread as your 'Theory' suggest, I've sure we would have seen data to back it up by now.
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      01-27-2016, 02:42 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
Blackstone can detect fuel in the UOA, if there was "substantial" amount of ethanol, there would be a "substantial" amount of fuel also in a lot of the UOA posted here. Pretty sure we haven't seen any reports with extremely high fuel content that wasn't accounted for, but if this is as wide spread as your 'Theory' suggest, I've sure we would have seen data to back it up by now.
Blackstone uses flashpoint testing for their "% Fuel" dilution result (I should know, i asked them). Flashpoint is not a very capable method and can report uncertain results. Determining an actual percentage of fuel dilution in the lubricating oil requires a gas chromatography machine which they do not possess (see Polaris labs or others professional labs).

Here is a trucker that sent oil samples to Polaris and Blackstone and here is the result :
"Blackstone said this sample was good and suggested increasing the change interval to 18,000. Polaris flagged fuel dilution & showed a little more lead than the same oil at blackstone."

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...l-diluents-oil

That is not all, the problem with ethanol is when the engine is cold ethanol is no longer miscible with the cold oil and will sit on top of the oil. So the sample should be taken on a warm engine and analyzed with GM.
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      01-27-2016, 08:56 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeM3SSII View Post
It's not about oil being dirty but loosing its lubricity properties. E10 dilution in the oil will do, and not driving the car on a couple of hours of continuous drives weekly. After the engine oil is warm it takes hours to evaporate all the ethanol dilution that can accumulate in the oil. It's not just about getting oil to temp.

translate and read..
"E10 harms engine oil"
Haven't read the paper (and maybe it explains this so my post is a waste of electrons), but ethanol boils at 171.3 deg F (78.37 deg C). Being 38.7 deg F above the boiling point will easily overcome the deltaH of vaporization of the ethanol. I can't imagine the volume you'd have to have in the oil to take 2 hours to boil off. Now the question is where does the ethanol vapor go? Well, the CCV system should suck it into the intake and it should be burned in combustion. How fast the CCV takes the vapor out would seem to be the limiting factor as far as time at temp goes.
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      01-27-2016, 09:08 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeM3SSII View Post
It's not about oil being dirty but loosing its lubricity properties. E10 dilution in the oil will do, and not driving the car on a couple of hours of continuous drives weekly. After the engine oil is warm it takes hours to evaporate all the ethanol dilution that can accumulate in the oil. It's not just about getting oil to temp.

translate and read..
"E10 harms engine oil"
Haven't read the paper (and maybe it explains this so my post is a waste of electrons), but ethanol boils at 171.3 deg F (78.37 deg C). Being 38.7 deg F above the boiling point will easily overcome the deltaH of vaporization of the ethanol. I can't imagine the volume you'd have to have in the oil to take 2 hours to boil off. Now the question is where does the ethanol vapor go? Well, the CCV system should suck it into the intake and it should be burned in combustion. How fast the CCV takes the vapor out would seem to be the limiting factor as far as time at temp goes.
You sir are 100% correct. Any ethanol getting past the rings via blowby would evaporate in the engine at operating temperature and be captured by the PCV system before any amount of it would accumulate in the oil. If you had that much blowby that ethanol could accumulate in the engine oil there would be other issues present like excessive oil burning and low compression.
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      01-27-2016, 09:49 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 330indy View Post
Fresh oil has headroom to deal with this.
I tire of hearing the penny wise and pound foolish advocation of extended OCIs.
That is my point.
I fully understand burning it off with long drives.
That is why short commutes are "severe service" and short OCIs are needed for the majority of M daily drivers in the US.
But don't discount the dirt in oil either! It's a major factor in bearing wear especially when the oil is saturated with fuel and acids.
Change your oil!
Often
Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
Count me in as a firm believer here mate. Keep the oil fresh!
I agree - more frequent oil changes can't hurt....
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      01-30-2016, 11:51 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMRLVR View Post
You sir are 100% correct. Any ethanol getting past the rings via blowby would evaporate in the engine at operating temperature and be captured by the PCV system before any amount of it would accumulate in the oil. If you had that much blowby that ethanol could accumulate in the engine oil there would be other issues present like excessive oil burning and low compression.
Paying attention in all those chemistry, physics, and chem engr classes paid off on the internets! Now I can add 'developed an international coalition against spurious claims' to my resume.
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      03-07-2021, 03:26 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPMSport View Post
Customer came in this morning.

Original bearings, 2008. Still runs like a champ.

This is the highest I've seen so far.
Mainly highway miles?
.
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      01-29-2022, 07:45 PM   #76
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Would be great to hear an update on this oneg
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      01-31-2022, 01:13 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by AdonM3 View Post
Would be great to hear an update on this oneg
The only way to "possibly" get some more details about the car and what happened to it is to reach out to Mike Benvo BPMSport or BPM or Sam @ BPM Sport. Mike made the original posting after the car came into his shop with 260,000 miles, the original rod bearings and original Throttle Actuators back in 2015. The car was a 2008 E90 M3 sedan and used mainly for highway use by a woman who commuted hundreds of miles to work.. Knowing "the rest of the story" would be intriguing for many. In fact, just knowing what OEM rod bearings at 260,000 miles looked like would be amazing. Green-Eggs had arranged for the rod bearings to be swopped out to be BE Bearings (the gold standard) according to earlier posts ->
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=32
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      01-31-2022, 02:20 PM   #78
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Haven't seen this car again. No news is good news they say.

On the flip side, acquired an E92 owned by a personal friend. It has about 175k on the clock. Original bearings, original owner. Tuned for many many years. Runs like a champ. I will be replacing the bearings at some point in the future and will definitely post the condition of the original ones once I do.
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      01-31-2022, 03:16 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPMSport View Post
I will be replacing the bearings at some point in the future and will definitely post the condition of the original ones once I do.
Thank you.
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      01-31-2022, 03:56 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BPMSport View Post
Found a link with more pics here:
http://fyiauto.com/new/vehicle-detai...ecula&state=++

I wish I had my other cable with me to check max rev's, max speed, etc.. but only had the tuning cable.
Just out of curiosity what is needed to look up this info on our cars? Would be interested to find out!
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      08-28-2022, 03:27 PM   #81
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Oldie but goodie..
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