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      09-27-2013, 08:04 AM   #1
rocket_science
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DIY: Easily adjust rear coilovers

Hey guys. It's no secret that adjusting the rears are a PITA. The carriers tend to spin with the collar and there is little room to use a clamp to hold it so I have a better solution so no tools (other than the spanner wrench) are ever required.

If you've already installed your springs like me only to realize the PITA to adjust them, do the following:

- Wedge a flat blade screwdriver between the threaded carrier and the car. You may need to tap lightly a few times with a small hammer to get the screwdriver in far enough. See image below:
- This should create a small gap big enough to dab a bit of "KwikWeld" (sets faster than JB Weld). You don't need a ton. I used about the size of a dime.
- Using a piece or soda box cardboard to apply the glue, I only put it on the area I could get to which was basically 1/8 of the full carrier. (CAREFUL not to get any on the threads!!)
- Yank out the screwdriver and wipe off/smooth over any extra that squeezes out

Allow an hour to dry and never worry about clamps again!

NOTE: This, in no way, makes uninstall any harder. Since you are only using JB weld on an 1/8th of the full surface, they still easily pull out with a wiggle.

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Last edited by rocket_science; 11-06-2013 at 08:46 PM..
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      09-30-2013, 01:36 AM   #2
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Kind of interesting but I don't understand the cardboard box part? Can u post pix?
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      10-30-2013, 09:24 PM   #3
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I dont understand lol, btw, are m3 rears similar to 335i rears? I figured a simpler way to lower/raise the rear coils by just removing the lower nut on the shock, having a heavy person step ontop on the rear tire while the car is in the air.. and the sping will be free, and can be raised removed or whatever you want, this saves a lot of time and most fo the pain in the butt that it is to lower/raise the rears..
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      11-06-2013, 08:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3less View Post
Kind of interesting but I don't understand the cardboard box part? Can u post pix?
Cardboard Box, popsicle stick, whatever... just something thin and disposable to apply the JB Weld between the body and the Spring seat.
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      11-06-2013, 08:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GabeS View Post
I dont understand lol, btw, are m3 rears similar to 335i rears? I figured a simpler way to lower/raise the rear coils by just removing the lower nut on the shock, having a heavy person step ontop on the rear tire while the car is in the air.. and the sping will be free, and can be raised removed or whatever you want, this saves a lot of time and most fo the pain in the butt that it is to lower/raise the rears..
I believe they are similar but if you do as I explained above, you don't have to remove the lower nut or anything. Just lift the car and adjust the coils.

This is so simple... I thought I did a pretty good job of explaining it but obviously not enough for all to understand. I'll post some pictures next time I have the car lifted.
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      11-06-2013, 08:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket_science View Post
I believe they are similar but if you do as I explained above, you don't have to remove the lower nut or anything. Just lift the car and adjust the coils.

This is so simple... I thought I did a pretty good job of explaining it but obviously not enough for all to understand. I'll post some pictures next time I have the car lifted.
kk got it! yeah pics would help too. these tips and tricks save a hell of a lot of time and labor.
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      12-02-2013, 12:02 AM   #7
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Great DIY. My ohlins have a rubber pad between the carrier and car body but the carrier still just spins with the collar.

Wish they would just cut grooves into the carrier so you could hold it with a spanner wrench..
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      01-18-2014, 04:46 PM   #8
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Worked like a charm. Thanks for the tip. So much easier then having to loosen the whole suspension.
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      03-14-2015, 05:32 PM   #9
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Just wanted to post some more pictures here. I did this today and I'll try and see if it works tomorrow after it cures.

Used 2 screwdrivers to wedge in. I found it worked much better with 2 so I didn't have to jam one in there so hard.


Here is the amount of space I was left to work with.


Mixed the JW Kwik Weld. Used about a dime size blob for each part.


Put it on top of the collar. And removed the screwdriver.


After the excess is wiped up. You can barely tell its there.


Done!
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      03-15-2015, 10:10 PM   #10
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You're using JB weld for a metal-to-rubberized undercoating connection. I don't think this would be any more effective than a dab of siliconized caulk, like the type used to fasten granite counter tops to cabinets. Something to consider, but I've also never dealt with this type of issue.
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      03-16-2015, 01:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaleb View Post
You're using JB weld for a metal-to-rubberized undercoating connection. I don't think this would be any more effective than a dab of siliconized caulk, like the type used to fasten granite counter tops to cabinets. Something to consider, but I've also never dealt with this type of issue.
You could be right. All suggestions are welcome. I just know that JB Weld worked well for me in this circumstance as it has for most other things I've used it for.
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      03-26-2015, 08:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaleb View Post
You're using JB weld for a metal-to-rubberized undercoating connection. I don't think this would be any more effective than a dab of siliconized caulk, like the type used to fasten granite counter tops to cabinets. Something to consider, but I've also never dealt with this type of issue.
Not really sure. I know on the driver side the JB weld held fine but the passenger side it broke loose. I'll try it again and clean it better this time
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