265/35/18 Rcomps

[dogbone]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

I'll check out TD next but don't they only last like 2 sessions? Lol

Here's my advice with TD's:
-Try to run square so you can rotate wheels around the car to get more life.
-Run tons of front camber. That will save the edges. The front edges get trashed VERY QUICKLY if you don't have lots of camber.
-Start at about 25 psi cold. You want them about 32 psi hot. I know 25 psi sounds low, and they'll be washy on your out-lap. But they'll warm up in that first out-lap and be totally ready for the first hot lap. If you start much higher, the psi's get too much when they're hot.

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

Going to remove helper spring. I have a lot of thread left to go upwards with my current settings. I'll try this first.

My other friend has swift springs with no helper springs. We jacked the car up on one side and the spring still sat in position up against the top. From what I was told the only time it may dislodge is if both wheels are in the air which I'm not brave enough to do yet.

I removed my helper springs on my JRZ because we had to lower the car so much after it was gutted. Haven't missed them one bit. I've run at Laguna Seca and unweighted in the Corkscrew, I've driven Phil Hill at Buttonwillow, I've jumped off berms at Chuckwalla, I've unweighted the car on all the crazy shit of the full 5 mile course at Thunderhill……no issues at all.

Originally Posted by roastbeef

i'll have to give those a shot. looks like you can get the TD in different compounds. do you run the super softs? how many days do you get out of them?

The TD you want is the C70 Soft compound. The Hard compound is barely any different than an Hankook R-S3.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by dogbone

I removed my helper springs on my JRZ because we had to lower the car so much after it was gutted. Haven't missed them one bit. I've run at Laguna Seca and unweighted in the Corkscrew, I've driven Phil Hill at Buttonwillow, I've jumped off berms at Chuckwalla, I've unweighted the car on all the crazy shit of the full 5 mile course at Thunderhill……no issues at all.

Hoping removing it will suffice.

[dogbone]

These are the studs that have been working well for me----meaning no broken studs on any hubs since I installed them 8 months ago:

http://store.bimmerworld.com/premium...tud-p1334.aspx

These particular bimmerworld studs are higher strength, harder 12.9 grade steel versus the 10.9 steel that most studs seem to use. I'm not a steel expert, but it was explained to me like this: 12.9 steel is stronger but ultimately more brittle, which means if it fails, it's more prone to snapping versus bending, but since my other 10.9 steel studs were already snapping, I decided it was worth trying a higher strength steel.

Most of my breaks were occurring inside the hub. The thing I really like about these studs is the large collar that sits up against the hub face. This seems like it could distribute forces better than other stud designs that just have their threads end and you force the stud only against those threads….

I'm also careful about how I torque the lug nuts now. I don't just push down on the torque wrench and put all that downward sheering force on the stud. I use my left hand on the socket-end to "pull up" and offset the downward sheering force as I torque the nut.

Also, I let the car cool at least 20-30 minutes before changing wheels, so that I'm not torqueing on super-hot metal. Many people have advised against changing wheels right after a session.

Who knows if any of this is helping, but it's been good so far, and I've been driving them very hard. They're going to get another test in a couple weeks. I'm going to be trying BFGoodrich R1S's which are supposed to be even stickier than the TD's I've been running. And I need to run a 3mm spacer with the R1S's because they're so darn wide.

I know all this sounds paranoid, but when you keep breaking studs, it sets you down the path of trying to figure out what the heck is going on…...

Anyway, I'm not going to push my luck. I'll be replacing the studs exactly at 11 months and 30 days.

[tlrid3r]

Let's see a pic of your spacer being used. Breaking studs that means the weight was on the studs. My Hankooks TD 265/35/18 has amazing grip a lot more than 285 street comp.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

Let's see a pic of your spacer being used. Breaking studs that means the weight was on the studs. My Hankooks TD 265/35/18 has amazing grip a lot more than 285 street comp.

I removed the 10mm spacer but I'll look for a pic. But it's the typical 10mm spacer with a stepped hubcentric lip so it can go over the hub on the axle. It did fit into the wheels properly.

But my thoughts are exactly like yours that the load was put into the studs. The nut was right up at the bullet nose tip where the threads start. It didn't look right to me but everyone insisted that 75mm studs accommodated up to a 10mm spacer which I don't believe. Maybe for different setups? Don't know how that's possible.

Wish our cars were m14.