Thoughts about Schrick Valve Spring

[Titan_br]

Does it worth for SC car?

Schrick Valve Spring and Schrick Titanium Valve Spring Retainer??


What is the top RPM I can reach?

[Green-Eggs]

BE Bearing valve springs come from the same source as Schrick valve springs. Schrick does not design or manufacture them on their own. They came from a different source.

Specifications on the valve springs can be found here:
http://wiki.rcollins.org/core/index....Specifications

The valve springs have been tested over 10000 RPMs, but that doesn't guarantee you will make any extra power at that RPM. That will depend on your engine, cams, etc.

[SYT_Shadow]

What you need to do now is develop cams for a NA 4.0L S65 that will get +50hp at 9k rpm.
Then people can choose to change their rod bearings every 15k miles in exchange for 500hp engine

[Malek@MRF]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

What you need to do now is develop cams for a NA 4.0L S65 that will get +50hp at 9k rpm.
Then people can choose to change their rod bearings every 15k miles in exchange for 500hp engine

This won't work. The bottom end rotating assembly (pistons + rods) are too heavy to accomplish this feat consistently and safely.

[Richbot]

Just do new rods and pistons while you're in there? I mean you'll save literally hundreds of dollars off the $7-8k job! http://www.bmeltd.com/rods.htm

I like that their website is bmeltd. I was winning the track day but then my rods bmeltd

[jcolley]

Better dump the crap OEM crank if you're turning the revs up too. If you're aiming for higher RPM consistently, billet tool steel crank, titanium rods, billet pistons, beryllium valve seats and titanium valves. If you're gonna go, go all the way, right?


Stronger (BE, Schrick, whoever) valve springs may add piece of mind, but you are highly unlikely to get the stock bottom end to hold up to the RPM needed to find valve float. That said, I'm using them on a couple of upcoming build for that exact piece of mind.