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11-05-2015, 07:40 PM | #23 | ||
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Drives: '09 E90 M3 - IB
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-Try to run square so you can rotate wheels around the car to get more life. -Run tons of front camber. That will save the edges. The front edges get trashed VERY QUICKLY if you don't have lots of camber. -Start at about 25 psi cold. You want them about 32 psi hot. I know 25 psi sounds low, and they'll be washy on your out-lap. But they'll warm up in that first out-lap and be totally ready for the first hot lap. If you start much higher, the psi's get too much when they're hot. Quote:
The TD you want is the C70 Soft compound. The Hard compound is barely any different than an Hankook R-S3. |
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11-05-2015, 08:17 PM | #24 | |
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11-06-2015, 02:55 AM | #25 |
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These are the studs that have been working well for me----meaning no broken studs on any hubs since I installed them 8 months ago:
http://store.bimmerworld.com/premium...tud-p1334.aspx These particular bimmerworld studs are higher strength, harder 12.9 grade steel versus the 10.9 steel that most studs seem to use. I'm not a steel expert, but it was explained to me like this: 12.9 steel is stronger but ultimately more brittle, which means if it fails, it's more prone to snapping versus bending, but since my other 10.9 steel studs were already snapping, I decided it was worth trying a higher strength steel. Most of my breaks were occurring inside the hub. The thing I really like about these studs is the large collar that sits up against the hub face. This seems like it could distribute forces better than other stud designs that just have their threads end and you force the stud only against those threads…. I'm also careful about how I torque the lug nuts now. I don't just push down on the torque wrench and put all that downward sheering force on the stud. I use my left hand on the socket-end to "pull up" and offset the downward sheering force as I torque the nut. Also, I let the car cool at least 20-30 minutes before changing wheels, so that I'm not torqueing on super-hot metal. Many people have advised against changing wheels right after a session. Who knows if any of this is helping, but it's been good so far, and I've been driving them very hard. They're going to get another test in a couple weeks. I'm going to be trying BFGoodrich R1S's which are supposed to be even stickier than the TD's I've been running. And I need to run a 3mm spacer with the R1S's because they're so darn wide. I know all this sounds paranoid, but when you keep breaking studs, it sets you down the path of trying to figure out what the heck is going on…... Anyway, I'm not going to push my luck. I'll be replacing the studs exactly at 11 months and 30 days. |
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11-06-2015, 09:20 AM | #26 |
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Let's see a pic of your spacer being used. Breaking studs that means the weight was on the studs. My Hankooks TD 265/35/18 has amazing grip a lot more than 285 street comp.
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///M3... Don't want more power, Just want it to turn sharper one step closer each time. -Ohlins TTX Raceline, PolePostions seats, Akrapovic EVO, ARC-8, 1/2 Cage, Seat Delete, Stoptech BBK, solid Subframe and diff bushing, spherical bearing on everything.
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11-06-2015, 09:44 AM | #27 | |
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But my thoughts are exactly like yours that the load was put into the studs. The nut was right up at the bullet nose tip where the threads start. It didn't look right to me but everyone insisted that 75mm studs accommodated up to a 10mm spacer which I don't believe. Maybe for different setups? Don't know how that's possible. Wish our cars were m14.
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