For those of you just out of warranty... the infamous idle control valve replacement

[BPMSport]

Last week I came back from vacation, and the M3 was waiting for me under her cover next to her sister.



Fired right up and took her for a spin. Was nice to drive it again. Later than night I took it to a friends birthday party. We left the restaurant, and my friend got in his X5M parked in front of my car and revved the motor. He's always trying to convince me to get rid of the M3 and buy an X5M (which is what he did a few weeks ago). After he revved it, I thought I'd remind him of how wonderful the the Akra sounds and gave the throttle a little poke to 2k rpm.

Well... that lead to "Engine Malfunction, Reduced Power". Turned the car off, and back on, and it was like nothing happened. It would occasionally do weird things without limp mode such as idle at 1,600 RPM, etc..

Car drove perfectly for the next day until afternoon time when I give it a little gas to make it through an intersection in time. Engine Malfunction, Reduced power again. Although it wasn't in full limp mode, it reduced the redline to 6K and I could tell I was missing quite a few horses under the hood.

At this point I was a bit perplexed. I had made some changes to the tune to test a few things out a week before I left, but nothing that should cause any type of issue like this. I double checked my changes and couldn't find anything wrong with the file. This was the same tune I ran on the track in 105 degree weather and almost 300F oil, without a hitch.

Just to make absolutely 100% sure and to remove all variables from the equation, I flashed the car back to the latest software version 240E. The flashing went smoothly and then the car fired right up. After about 15 or 30 seconds of idling, the engine sounded strange for a few seconds and then it went back to normal. I figured maybe it was a fluke after flashing, sometimes the 'computers' in these cars need a reboot just like our PC's do.

No problems at all over the next day. The next morning I started it up. About 10 seconds after the start, the cold start sequence abruptly stopped and I was greeted with yet another Engine Malfunction message. But a few more friends joined the party, DSC malfunction, DBC malfunction, and start-off assistance inactive. Redline was reduced even further, and I tried to get the car out of my parking space but it wouldn't have it. It was very jerky and bumpy and unwilling to accept any throttle input. Turned the car off and back on, and it was perfect again like nothing had ever happened.

Later that night I was on the freeway on-ramp and gave it a little gas. I could feel that all of the power wasn't there, and as I approached 6K RPM, I saw a picture of a car on a lift in the cluster. Another limp mode event, but this time it said Fuel pump malfunction, as well as engine malfunction. Turned it off and back on, and the error returned again later than night.



So off to the dealer it went. My car was purchased in early 2008 when they first came out. My factory warranty ended in the beginning of 2012. I was worried about how the extended warranty company would be after the expiration of the factory warranty. I had an extended warranty on my Jaguar last year, and they were nothing short of a nightmare, making up anything they possibly could to deny coverage. When the transmission went out, (caused by a bearing that broke which created havoc inside the rest of the transmission), they would only pay for that one bearing and the labor to replace it because the rest of the damage was 'incidental' and as per the contract this wasn't covered. Needless to say, I didn't have high expectations and was ready for them. This was a different warranty company, and considering I purchased it in the finance office when I bought the car I thought the odds were better than before. Off I went in my loaner car (I might add that I love the 335's torquuuuue!!):



*Fast forward 2 days*

Just got back from picking the car up from the dealer. Total repair bill was $3854.95 My mouth dropped when I saw this. I knew the idle control valve was hard to get to, but wasn't expecting a repair bill for almost four grand!!





Items replaced were:
Idle strips, idle control valve, tubing, three clamps, fuel pump control unit, and fuel sensor for low pressure. Car feels like it's back to life again. Going to drive it a few days to make sure no other issues arise and then back to the tune I go. Thank god for that extended warranty company... I paid around $3K for the warranty back in 2008, and it just paid for itself in one shot. For those of you out of warranty, I suggest you pick one up just in case as repairs for this car are apparently outrageously expensive!

Here are some pictures of the replaced parts:

Idle valve:





Idle valve, hose, idle strips, and fuel pressure sensor:



Fuel Control Module (EKP):



Going to be driving it over the next few days to make sure all is well, and then retuning time - I can only last using stock software for so long!

[stylin8o8]

Thank you for sharing.... Very Nice car btw

[Rich_Jenkins]

Gah-Dayum

That extended warranty worth it's weight in gold.

[BIGW0RM]

interesting.

[mark896]

Glad you got it all together, Mike.

[IMG]

Im glad you were covered !

[the_road_less_traveled]

Originally Posted by Mike Benvo

Last week I came back from vacation, and the M3 was waiting for me under her cover next to her sister.



Fired right up and took her for a spin. Was nice to drive it again. Later than night I took it to a friends birthday party. We left the restaurant, and my friend got in his X5M parked in front of my car and revved the motor. He's always trying to convince me to get rid of the M3 and buy an X5M (which is what he did a few weeks ago). After he revved it, I thought I'd remind him of how wonderful the the Akra sounds and gave the throttle a little poke to 2k rpm.

Well... that lead to "Engine Malfunction, Reduced Power". Turned the car off, and back on, and it was like nothing happened. It would occasionally do weird things without limp mode such as idle at 1,600 RPM, etc..

Car drove perfectly for the next day until afternoon time when I give it a little gas to make it through an intersection in time. Engine Malfunction, Reduced power again. Although it wasn't in full limp mode, it reduced the redline to 6K and I could tell I was missing quite a few horses under the hood.

At this point I was a bit perplexed. I had made some changes to the tune to test a few things out a week before I left, but nothing that should cause any type of issue like this. I double checked my changes and couldn't find anything wrong with the file. This was the same tune I ran on the track in 105 degree weather and almost 300F oil, without a hitch.

Just to make absolutely 100% sure and to remove all variables from the equation, I flashed the car back to the latest software version 240E. The flashing went smoothly and then the car fired right up. After about 15 or 30 seconds of idling, the engine sounded strange for a few seconds and then it went back to normal. I figured maybe it was a fluke after flashing, sometimes the 'computers' in these cars need a reboot just like our PC's do.

No problems at all over the next day. The next morning I started it up. About 10 seconds after the start, the cold start sequence abruptly stopped and I was greeted with yet another Engine Malfunction message. But a few more friends joined the party, DSC malfunction, DBC malfunction, and start-off assistance inactive. Redline was reduced even further, and I tried to get the car out of my parking space but it wouldn't have it. It was very jerky and bumpy and unwilling to accept any throttle input. Turned the car off and back on, and it was perfect again like nothing had ever happened.

Later that night I was on the freeway on-ramp and gave it a little gas. I could feel that all of the power wasn't there, and as I approached 6K RPM, I saw a picture of a car on a lift in the cluster. Another limp mode event, but this time it said Fuel pump malfunction, as well as engine malfunction. Turned it off and back on, and the error returned again later than night.



So off to the dealer it went. My car was purchased in early 2008 when they first came out. My factory warranty ended in the beginning of 2012. I was worried about how the extended warranty company would be after the expiration of the factory warranty. I had an extended warranty on my Jaguar last year, and they were nothing short of a nightmare, making up anything they possibly could to deny coverage. When the transmission went out, (caused by a bearing that broke which created havoc inside the rest of the transmission), they would only pay for that one bearing and the labor to replace it because the rest of the damage was 'incidental' and as per the contract this wasn't covered. Needless to say, I didn't have high expectations and was ready for them. This was a different warranty company, and considering I purchased it in the finance office when I bought the car I thought the odds were better than before. Off I went in my loaner car (I might add that I love the 335's torquuuuue!!):



*Fast forward 2 days*

Just got back from picking the car up from the dealer. Total repair bill was $3854.95 My mouth dropped when I saw this. I knew the idle control valve was hard to get to, but wasn't expecting a repair bill for almost four grand!!





Items replaced were:
Idle strips, idle control valve, tubing, three clamps, fuel pump control unit, and fuel sensor for low pressure. Car feels like it's back to life again. Going to drive it a few days to make sure no other issues arise and then back to the tune I go. Thank god for that extended warranty company... I paid around $3K for the warranty back in 2008, and it just paid for itself in one shot. For those of you out of warranty, I suggest you pick one up just in case as repairs for this car are apparently outrageously expensive!

Here are some pictures of the replaced parts:

Idle valve:





Idle valve, hose, idle strips, and fuel pressure sensor:



Fuel Control Module (EKP):



Going to be driving it over the next few days to make sure all is well, and then retuning time - I can only last using stock software for so long!

My car is almost out of warranty, but I'm thinking of NOT getting the warranty. I can do all the work myself, and parts are reasonably priced if you know where to look. The biggest concern for me are the main bearings. Who knows, that could be a nice January project along with a stroker build!!

[Lagunae92]

Any problems with your mods and warranty?

[JeffreMarti]

Thank you for sharing, Very Nice car btw

[CCLSVTM3]

That's why I got the ext maint.... It only takes one time....

[brava09]

I see the most part of the bill is labor, 2,400$, is this a joke??

[edwinm3]

Typical case of a stealer throwing parts at a car hoping one of them fixes the problem. That's a lot of $$$ in labor

[Soorena]

Back in 2010 my E90 did the same act. Though the car was just only 5 months old, they said i had to pay it out of my pocket due the mods (dealers' regular pretext). Anyways, long story short, they were asking ~$3,000 for repair and the car had to sit there 2 weeks. I took the car to a shop, took one day to find the parts and 3 hours of install and only paid ~$2000.

So far i haven't seen much from BMW warranty program except negative things.

[Bel-Tirid]

I had also fuel pump problem, went to my mechanic and the bill was 180 €

im lucky guy

[Grail05]

Damn they charge you a grip....

i just replaced my low pressure sensor and paid 54 bucks looks like you paid 116... damn dealer

well glad it worked out.. but damn i could have installed all that for 1k labor..

[C|3R1C]

Originally Posted by CCL16M3

That's why I got the ext maint.... It only takes one time....

Extended warranty , not maint

[BPMSport]

I thought that the price was pretty outrageous myself...

Thinking about it.. The $1300 in parts you can't really agrue with - I'm sure there is markup on those but it is what it is. The Fuel Control Module was completely 100% unnecessary and wasn't the cause of any problems. I'd be more inclined to have replaced the fuel pump over the module, but their diagnostics pointed to the frel pressure sensor or module so the warranty company decided to replace both.

Let's break it down...
Idle control valve can't take more than 7 hours...

Seven hours at 125 an hour comes to $875
Figure two hours for diagnostic time - $250
Replacing the fuel pressure sensor - $250 (ballpark two hours, I'm guessing here)
Replacing the fuel module (this litereally takes 10 minutes and requires no programming or coding, so I'm not going to put a number on this.)

Adding all of that up, I come to $2700. I can't imagine what the last $1000 is for, seems like gouging to me..


Yesterday I read the codes and I had a code for 'Fuel Model Comparison'. So I'm not sure if this is the end of their ordeal, there may be something else that might need replacing. The car is definitely a monster again and doesn't exhibit all of those quirkly low end drivability problems it had before taking it in. Time tells all tales

[M3PO]

Hmmm... What warranty do you have? My factory warranty is already expired, I wonder if I can still get one? I had one for my last car (350Z) and the warranty company just pocketed my $2K because I never used it.

[W///]

Originally Posted by Mike Benvo

I thought that the price was pretty outrageous myself...

Thinking about it.. The $1300 in parts you can't really agrue with - I'm sure there is markup on those but it is what it is. The Fuel Control Module was completely 100% unnecessary and wasn't the cause of any problems. I'd be more inclined to have replaced the fuel pump over the module, but their diagnostics pointed to the frel pressure sensor or module so the warranty company decided to replace both.

Let's break it down...
Idle control valve can't take more than 7 hours...

Seven hours at 125 an hour comes to $875
Figure two hours for diagnostic time - $250
Replacing the fuel pressure sensor - $250 (ballpark two hours, I'm guessing here)
Replacing the fuel module (this litereally takes 10 minutes and requires no programming or coding, so I'm not going to put a number on this.)

Adding all of that up, I come to $2700. I can't imagine what the last $1000 is for, seems like gouging to me..


Yesterday I read the codes and I had a code for 'Fuel Model Comparison'. So I'm not sure if this is the end of their ordeal, there may be something else that might need replacing. The car is definitely a monster again and doesn't exhibit all of those quirkly low end drivability problems it had before taking it in. Time tells all tales

Maybe I missed it, but do you mind sharing which company you are using?

When I went through the throttle actuator ordeal, the prices that I was reading for this job were upwards of $2k.
The DIY can be done in half a day with parts cost coming to $800. So they will kill you on labor, for a job that I thought was not bad at all and I'm not THAT skilled of a mechanic.

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by W///

Maybe I missed it, but do you mind sharing which company you are using?

When I went through the throttle actuator ordeal, the prices that I was reading for this job were upwards of $2k.
The DIY can be done in half a day with parts cost coming to $800. So they will kill you on labor, for a job that I thought was not bad at all and I'm not THAT skilled of a mechanic.

Extended warranty company is Zurich.

Here is some info on them:
http://secure.zurichna.com/uug/autod...256ca600634ffb

So far I'm pretty happy.

Just threw a base tune in the car for fun and it's running quite well. Pulls like a freight train. Also changed the freestanding revlimit to 3,500 rpm. It's like launch control -- pull out the clutch to launch and it rockets up to 8,600. I'll have to post a video of it, it's a cool feature for those that get the performance software.

Edit: I also opted for the extended maintenance warranty and the tire warranty. The tire warranty was $1000 four and a half years ago and has already paid for itself. They have already replaced 2 or 3 tires over the years and one wheel from a nasty pothole.

The extended maintenance was $3400, and I have yet to use that yet. But I think that when the car needs rotors all the way around, that it will almost pay for itself there.

You can never have enough coverage!

[kiln]

and that is why I do the work myself.. outrageous

[M3PO]

Originally Posted by Mike Benvo

Edit: I also opted for the extended maintenance warranty and the tire warranty. The tire warranty was $1000 four and a half years ago and has already paid for itself. They have already replaced 2 or 3 tires over the years and one wheel from a nasty pothole.

Will they replace aftermarket wheels?