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01-29-2013, 11:51 PM | #23 |
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So, very interesting findings tonight after pulling the subwoofers out from under the seats.
Turns out my intuition on this was correct. The speakers are not blown. It is a connection issue. One of the leads that connects to the voice coil is broken off of BOTH speakers. If I connect my multimeter to the end of the lead that is still glued to the cone and the other good lead I get reasonable resistance readings. The cone moves freely as well so that's another sign that the speaker itself is fine. So it looks like this is just a case of a defective part. In my case it looks like the same thing happened to both woofers over time. That would explain why I noticed no bass when I faded from one side to the other a while back. Then eventually both were disconnected. The amp is fine and my aftermarket sub in the trunk is providing some extra fill in the mean time. I just turned the crossover off. So, I'll take the subs to the dealership to show them what happened and hopefully they won't hassle me and just order the parts. I would fix it myself, but the woofers are so low profile that getting a soldering iron in there is risking damaging the cone. Here's a pic of the lead that has basically disconnected from the glued portion of the wire on the cone. You can see the other lead that is still connected fine in the background. |
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01-30-2013, 05:51 PM | #24 |
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Went by the dealership and showed them the speakers. The tech agreed that they just needed new ones because they were defective. The SA is ordering them. Sweet.
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02-07-2013, 05:46 PM | #27 | |
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03-12-2013, 11:48 AM | #28 | |
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After 4-5 trips to the dealership and an enormous hassle, the dealer (BMW of San Diego) is now telling me that they won't fix it. They are telling me that because I tapped the subwoofer wires they won't cover it. They seem to be stuck on assuming that I was powering the stock subs with an external amplifier. I'm clearly just tapping the wires for high-level source for an external sub, but they must not understand what that means. To make it more annoying they told me they would cover it if I returned my car to stock, so I uninstalled all my equipment as well. Sure glad I did that. Why on earth would anyone power stock speakers with an aftermarket amplifier? That doesn't even make sense. Even if that were the case, I'm not sure how exactly that would cause the speaker leads to snap. If I melted the voice coil maybe I would understand... kinda. I think this is just a case of not enough mobile electronic knowledge to make an informed decision. I understand that I made a modification and that there are always warranty risks involved, but this just doesn't make any sense. The parts are defective as the photos above show. |
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03-14-2013, 10:56 AM | #29 |
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Good/Loud Bass and quality sound are different things. It's really a personal preference but I'm a bit of an audio snob and so many people think the measure of a good sound system (home or car) is how hard the bass hits. I'm not saying this system is stellar, but the high and mid range are respectable for a factory system. Is there better? Yes. Can you do better aftermarket? Absolutely. While I've never been in an Avenger, I've found most premium sound systems in American made cars are very tailored towards playing loud with lots of bass, but I always find the ability to clearly do vocals is usually pretty weak. Again...it's a personal preference.
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03-14-2013, 11:14 AM | #30 |
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Another Update:
I pulled the speakers out, peeled the spider back carefully, replaced both leads on both speakers, reglued the spider, and reinstalled. Everything is working again. If I knew the hassle that the dealer would have put me through I would have just done this to begin with. BTW, this is not a very easy procedure. If you have the same problem that I did and you aren't comfortable with a soldering iron and a multimeter then I'd recommend dropping your woofers at a speaker repair shop. It certainly would be cheaper than going through BMW. |
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04-03-2013, 09:03 PM | #32 |
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Ive had my door speaks replaced as well as my amp... the whole thing took 4/5 trips to BMW.
NOW i am getting DSC malfunction lights that come on erratically ad well as reduced power. I've paid nearly 1k for replacement work/sensors and the problem is still evident. Those of you who had error lights after the replacement of speakers, what was the fix for them? Thanks, Colin |
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06-18-2013, 12:56 PM | #33 |
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Any updates on this from anyone?
I had the same issue yesterday. I was driving and poof, my bass was gone like a fart in the wind. When I got home, I shut off the car and restarted it. Same problem. I came back about 20 min later, started the car, and the bass was back. I've got an appointment with my dealer next week but if I can't replicate this, I know it's gonna be hell trying to convince my dealer to fix this. I'm out of factory warranty but the extended warranty I bought does cover the factory stereo/NAV...but if I can't show them the problem...I think this is going to turn into a huge pain in the ass. |
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06-18-2013, 01:00 PM | #34 | |
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06-18-2013, 01:03 PM | #35 |
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This thread is maybe the best argument ever for replacing the underseats and adding a 12" in the trunk, damn near perfect upgrade IMO if you've got EPS already, since the rest of the speakers are top-notch.
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06-18-2013, 01:07 PM | #36 |
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That's the back up plan. If the dealer can't reproduce or fix it, I'll look to just go aftermarket but I'm hoping to avoid that for now.
Are the Mids/Tweets powered by a different amp? When I lost the bass and turned up the volume, they seemed to lack clarity...but it was hard to really tell while focusing on driving... |
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09-25-2013, 05:54 PM | #37 |
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Just happened to me a few days ago. Have an appointment set Monday. Bass is gone. They told me to check my battery and make sure it was fully charged. I trickled it all night and still no bass. Premium isn't sounding so premium! Frustrated.
They just had to replace both of my motor mounts last week. I was getting a pretty gnarly sound under the hood at WOT. |
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09-25-2013, 07:32 PM | #38 | |
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easy fix,- dealer just replaces subs under warranty. Dealer may not have subs in stock and would have to order. You should have your M3 back and drive it while you waiting for subs. Dealer can only order subs once they determine it is subs that needed to be replaced... no biggie. Please PM me if you have any questions!
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09-25-2013, 08:57 PM | #39 | |
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That just shows how dumb the dealers can be sometimes. I don't see how you would come to the conclusion that no bass = dead battery. Especially since the alternator pretty much runs most of the electronic accessories when the engine is running.
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09-30-2013, 02:03 PM | #40 |
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See my post here.
***HELP*** Loud static - back RH speaker http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=571254
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09-30-2013, 04:12 PM | #41 | |
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10-08-2014, 08:24 AM | #42 |
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I think this sound system sucks. Bass cranked all the way up, treble is about 7/10. On the eq I have the low tones at +10, +7, 0, +3, +7. Fade 0, balance is 0. Doesn't even make a thump. Its clear but no thump can't even feel it kick in the seat at all.
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04-20-2015, 06:55 PM | #43 | |
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08-14-2015, 11:48 AM | #44 | |
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One guy had to replace the leads on the sub, a few replaced the subs altogether, and I believe another had an amp issue. I'm actually having this issue now with my car that just came out of its warranty period. Sounds like the best solution for me will be to upgrade the woofers under the seats. Ironically, I have just bought two JL W7s for the trunk and was going to install them this weekend. Quick question... Would anyone happen to know if the subs under the seat provide the only source of mid level tones? It appears that without my subs working, all I can hear are high notes. Thanks in advance...
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