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08-26-2013, 02:29 PM | #1 |
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Track Prep Mistakes...
I was just thinking about some of the mistakes I've learned from in the past related to tracking my car. Figured you guys might have a ton as well and a lot of us could learn from them. Here are 2 of mine:
Not Enough Camber with R Comps Besides the fact that I shouldn't have been running r-comps at my then skill level anyways, I was running PS Cups with -1.8 degrees of camber in the front. The tires corded on the outside fronts only after a couple track days. Expensive mistake. Overflowing Brake Fluid when Changing Pads A few months ago I put on brand new pads which meant the calipers had to be opened up quite a bit to fit back on the rotors. I didn't bother checking the level of my brake fluid in the reservoir and it ended up overflowing. I wiped it clean and thought everything was fine, but about a month later, my car started going into limp mode because the brake fluid fried a sensor.
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08-26-2013, 03:05 PM | #2 |
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Great idea, thanks for posting!
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08-26-2013, 03:10 PM | #3 |
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Always double check on lugs. Torque and re:torque. I have made this novice mistake every once in a while. Carry a to do sheet with a list.
Only add oil when the warning sign comes on dash. I added a tad much and got a warning for too much oil even when the oil dip on dash showed half. Had to drain some, PITA |
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08-26-2013, 03:33 PM | #4 |
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[QUOTE=radiantm3;14563103]
Overflowing Brake Fluid when Changing Pads A few months ago I put on brand new pads which meant the calipers had to be opened up quite a bit to fit back on the rotors. I didn't bother checking the level of my brake fluid in the reservoir and it ended up overflowing. I wiped it clean and thought everything was fine, but about a month later, my car started going into limp mode because the brake fluid fried a sensor. QUOTE] common mistake home mechanics make all the time. you top off the brake fluid as it drops when the pads wear and then put new pads in and overflow it. it is an issue on pretty much all cars. i typically use a turkey baster to remove some before and as i do each caliper to avoid that. the only exception i have seen was a 2007 acura TL type-s with front brembos. the FSM said I had to open the bleeder to let the fluid out when i pushed the pistons back, because pushing fluid backward was not good for their ABS system. odd, but I followed the manual.
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08-26-2013, 03:34 PM | #5 |
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My advice is to do track prep at least one week in advance. That way we can still have reasonable time to order/deliver/install parts without paying a ton for overnight shipping
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08-26-2013, 03:46 PM | #6 |
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Aluminum tape
First time trackers should tape wheel weights w/ high temperature aluminum tape to prevent it from flying off and having to get it balance later.$$$
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08-26-2013, 03:52 PM | #7 |
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08-26-2013, 03:53 PM | #8 |
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Running stock pads hard. I crumbled all four pads in one day at VIR when I had stock brakes, necessitating new pads all round. If you are advanced/brake hard, buy PFC or bbk.
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08-26-2013, 04:00 PM | #9 |
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Don't save money by waiting to change (stock) pads etc just bc you think there is more life on them. Once you hit 25% left, just toss em out at home and take the time to do them in comfort. It's a hassle at the track, and always winds up being 100+ degrees.
Spend the time to pack, and be organized. It's always the small things that get missed, and make you run around like an idiot. |
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08-26-2013, 04:11 PM | #10 | |
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08-26-2013, 04:14 PM | #11 | |
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08-26-2013, 04:20 PM | #12 |
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Would love to know the right way to do it on our cars. Widening the calipers while the caliper is off the car AND with the bleed screw open seems like an increased chance of something going wrong. With my luck the bleeder bottle hose will pop off and I'll have fluid everywhere.
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08-26-2013, 04:22 PM | #13 |
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My tires rotate around my wheel every time after a track day so it probably doesn't make much difference anyways.
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08-26-2013, 04:25 PM | #14 |
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So true. I change pads/fluids a week before a track day in case I screw something up. It's also nice to be able to drive on them for a week to be sure nothing will fall off from user error.
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08-26-2013, 04:33 PM | #15 |
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when I change pads, I get to the damn reservoir (why so complicated lol) just to check that it is not overflowing - so far it has been ok on swapping to track pads and back to stock pads.
Waiting on Derple's response to this thread. |
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08-26-2013, 04:34 PM | #16 | |
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Also, the brake fluid needs to be bled afterwards when retracting pistons with the bleeder open to make sure you get out any air that may come in while open. As for spraying fluid.. can't help you with that one!
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08-26-2013, 04:39 PM | #17 | ||
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08-26-2013, 04:40 PM | #18 |
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Yea that's what I do too. I open the cap just to make sure the fluid can rise a bit without building too much pressure. I have no idea if that's necessary or not.
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08-26-2013, 05:10 PM | #19 |
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Check your tire pressures after every session. Even after they have stabilized it's a good idea just to make sure you don't have a tire going down.
Could save your underwear.
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08-26-2013, 05:21 PM | #20 |
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Figuring that I retracted the piston all the way back the last time and nothing happened, one would think that it should be fine going forward. Didn't check when I went back to stock pads because I was too lazy. When I swap them again this time, I will check again.
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08-26-2013, 05:30 PM | #21 | ||
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Search youtube for 5 minute m3 brake pad swap. |
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08-26-2013, 05:31 PM | #22 | |
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