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10-19-2016, 11:16 PM | #45 |
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I'm in the middle of time sert-ing my oil pan and your write-up is spot on, thanks! Interestingly a portion of my thread wall also looked collapsed, it kind of looks like a V-shaped section of thread is simply not there ... perhaps this is just the way the drain was made or maybe that was a particularly thin portion of it, not sure. Anyway, finished drilling, counterboring, and tapping, flushed with 2 liters of oil also, and now letting sit overnight. Really hoping that insert goes in and holds in the morning!
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10-19-2016, 11:19 PM | #46 | |
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10-20-2016, 12:15 AM | #47 | |
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10-20-2016, 06:18 AM | #48 |
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The thread wall in the pan is not constant, it has "missing" sections to allow for complete oil drainage.
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10-20-2016, 08:00 AM | #49 | ||
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Thank you both, feeling much better about this job now. I will say the aluminum particle volume was certainly more than I expected but with gravity and the extra fluid flushed through, hopeful I got most of it out. I do Blackstone reports every oil change so I'll be on the lookout for an aluminum up-tick next time and won't let it alarm me. Thanks again, great group knowledge here.
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10-21-2016, 09:38 AM | #50 |
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So unfortunately I am a time-sert first timer and I wouldn't say I did a perfect job by any means. The inserts final position was not flush but I thought it might still be okay and refilled the oil. Generally things are good but after a longer drive where the oil heats up a small amount of oil drips out (probably around the sert). Suggestions welcome ...
One thought I had was to go to the next size up sert kit and a bigger size drain plug, just not sure that will work with the amount of material in there. I did use blue loctite that was a bit liquidy, perhaps before I do that I should remove this sert and try again with the same size sert and proper red oil resistant loctite?
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10-21-2016, 09:58 AM | #51 |
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You can't upsize the insert. Not enough material. You can remove the insert and if the threads cut for the insert are still intact you can clean them up and install a new insert flush using the correct red Loctite. It must be flush for a new crush washer to properly seal against seepage. It also must be oil free for loctite to work. Also, you should shorten the Time-Sert to 5/8" or so. The standard 1" long insert will prevent quite a bit of oil from draining.
I have repaired botched thread repairs by grinding the original bung flush and welding a new bung in place. So regardless of what happens it's not like you'll have to R&R the pan. |
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10-28-2016, 12:52 PM | #52 | |
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I'm curious if there is a shop in Houston that you would recommend for welding? I am done with these band-aid repairs and want to be done with this. Alternatively, does anyone know of an aftermarket oil pan out there? I haven't found any.
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10-28-2016, 02:27 PM | #53 |
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I talked to a local repair shop and they said they'd want to remove the pan to weld it and I may as well replace it at that point. Kind of want it repaired to OE-spec for when I eventually sell the car anyway so considering going that route.
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10-29-2016, 04:31 PM | #54 |
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Well certainly it would be preferable to replace the pan if it's being removed, but a welder with any skill or experience with aluminum should be able to TIG a bung on without having to remove it. Hope it works out whichever way you go.
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10-30-2016, 11:28 AM | #55 |
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Thinking about making the most of this and swapping rod bearings when the pan is replaced, we'll see.
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11-02-2016, 02:54 PM | #56 |
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New oil pan, oil pan gasket, ISA screws, o-ring (for oil level sensor), oil filter, and drain plugs ordered from getbmwparts. Anything else I need? Also ordered yet another case of Amazon Castrol Edge 10w-60. Getting this handled and off my mind!
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11-02-2016, 03:26 PM | #57 |
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Since both jobs require lowering the subframe and removing the pan, doing rod bearings now will save you bigtime on labor vs doing it later. And could potentially save your engine... Also a good time to replace the engine mounts.
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01-31-2017, 02:01 AM | #58 |
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It's been 2k miles and several months 7 months since my repair and it's been holding nicely not a single drip of oil.
I had to tighten the drain bolt over spec torque for a proper seal to be made. So I had a few follow up. Questions. 1. Is a time sert a permanent fix? 2. How do I find out what my current torque is of my oil drain bolt so I can re tightened it with the same about of force during my next oil change. Thanks! |
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01-31-2017, 02:14 PM | #59 | |
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I just had my oil changed for the 2nd time since I bought the car used at 19 000 km (it now has 30 000 km)...switched to Fuchs full synthetic BTW. This was done at VCM in Victoria, not the dealer, and when I picked the car up, they told me that the drain plug threads were stripped because the dealer has a habit of air-ratcheting them...not the first one they've seen. Kudos to VCP, I swear the car has more pep with this oil!
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02-03-2017, 12:20 PM | #60 | |
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2. Is the timecert steel? Then it will have a higher torque spec than the original threads in the aluminum pan.
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02-03-2017, 12:55 PM | #61 |
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Just checked again yesterday, and my timesert is still holding with 0 leaks or drips. Im currently 3 months post-repair. It is indeed widely regarded as a permanent fix, assuming a proper installation.
For what it's worth, I didn't use any loctite when installing it since I did not have the luxury of letting the oil pan drain overnight and performing a clean install with the threads being wiped dry/oil-free. Hasn't been an issue, but I also have not performed an oil change since the installation of the timesert, so it remains to be determined if this will be an issue when removing the drain plug during an oil change. Timeserts are made out of carbon steel according to their website. I've just been torquing my OEM drain plugs to the same specifications as called for with no regard to change in material fronm aluminum to steel; it has worked out fine for me thus far. Moving to a Goldplug magnetic drain plug on my next OCI, going to just stick with "good-'n-tight". Last edited by kamber; 02-03-2017 at 07:01 PM.. |
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02-03-2017, 06:08 PM | #62 |
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You need to get it tight enough so you crush the crush washer. That is all you need.
Its not a connecting rod bolt.
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02-04-2017, 12:57 AM | #63 | ||
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I guess hand tightening is enough. Thanks a lot for the confirmation |
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03-23-2017, 12:41 AM | #64 |
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Just happened to me on my primary drain pan. Car has 50k miles on it on my previous oil change I did everything was fine until I started tightening the bolt. This was my 4th time doing an oil chalange and I do it myself everytime. I hand tighten it and def not too tight. I replace the crush washer everytime but I never changed the bolt until the last oil change I noticed the bolt wasn't getting tight it was just kinda spinning towards the end so I let it be I noticed some oil around the bolt but never a leak so I let it go until the next oil change which was today and I just got new drain plugs to replace them since I thought it would just be the bolts. I started removing the bolt and noticed something wasn't right. As soon as I started loosening the bolt it felt like I was tightening it cuz it was pretty tough coming off. It came off everything looked good until I went to put on the new bolt. It wasn't going in the thread. I noticed peices of the pan thread on the bolt as I took it out I got under the hole put a light and saw all the threads completely broken off and just laying there so now the cars getting towed to the dealer to get a new pan tommorow under extended warranty from all state.
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07-02-2017, 12:15 PM | #65 |
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Update: 18 months and 20,000 miles later and the time sert is leak-free. I think if you follow the directions to a "T" and do everything straight, this is the most permanent method. I feel like all aluminum pans should have the stainless steel insert to mitigate stripping the threads.
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07-11-2017, 11:06 PM | #66 | |
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