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      02-19-2013, 09:53 AM   #23
dmw16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
just did this tonight. barely takes any more time than pads do. super easy. my set screws were easily removed and the rotor just fell off no need to beat it first with a hammer. it took longer to double nut my studs as i was replacing my turners for new set of apex at the same time.
It's nice when they come off easy like that. I just pulled the set screws on my E46 last night and was able to get the fronts just holding the rotor with my other hand. That compared to when I took rotors off my GTI I had to cut a notch in the screw so I could use a beefy flat head screw driver. Go figure...
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      02-19-2013, 10:45 AM   #24
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yep very easy this time with lot of track days so dont think i have to worry about them becoming stuck on.
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      02-21-2013, 03:07 PM   #25
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Ok, so it sounds pretty easy to remove rotors... Now, how much more to take the wheel bearing off?

Can someone confirm that the part number for the hub/bearing is 31222282670 and 31126760203 for screws?

What are the torque specs for the 4 screws?

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Last edited by MTROIS; 02-21-2013 at 03:12 PM..
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      03-06-2013, 10:08 PM   #26
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Do I need to remove the caliper carrier to remove the brake disc or do I just need to remove the caliper?
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      03-07-2013, 12:16 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlhj83 View Post
Do I need to remove the caliper carrier to remove the brake disc or do I just need to remove the caliper?
just the caliper the rotor falls out, just a little to the side.
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      03-07-2013, 05:44 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
just the caliper the rotor falls out, just a little to the side.
Brilliant, thanks.
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      03-07-2013, 06:25 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
just did this tonight. barely takes any more time than pads do. super easy. my set screws were easily removed and the rotor just fell off no need to beat it first with a hammer. it took longer to double nut my studs as i was replacing my turners for new set of apex at the same time.
Did you have to remove your studs? I recently installed studs with loctite and I will need to change my rear rotors in about 15k miles.
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      03-07-2013, 06:31 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggynuts01 View Post
Did you have to remove your studs? I recently installed studs with loctite and I will need to change my rear rotors in about 15k miles.
I changed my studs at the same time so didn't have that to worry about. The rotor should still come off by slipping over the studs as they are threaded into the hub assembly thru the rotor. Might require some wiggling to pull em and the caliper carrier would be in the way also at that point. Might have to remove that unlike my route.
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      03-11-2013, 10:29 AM   #31
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I just did this over the weekend and took a couple of pictures while i was at it. Excuse the quality, iphone was all I had with me.

Rotor with Caliper removed



Rotor with set screws removed



Picture of the set screws



Picture of the rotor removed



My car has ~59K miles on it and the rotors weren't hard to remove at all. Drivers side came off just by pulling and the passenger side required two hits with a mallet and popped right off. Overall, this was a pretty easy job, did both front rotors and pads in about 2 hours including jacking up the car and swapping to my summer wheels.
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      03-11-2013, 10:48 AM   #32
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nice work. really easy once you get into it.
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      07-31-2015, 08:34 AM   #33
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I got the front rotor off without removing the caliper. I'm attempting to replace the rear rotor, the caliper carrier bolts are a bitch to take off, so I tried to slide the rotor off like in the front but there is not enough clearance. Has anybody been able to take the rear rotor off without removing the caliper carrier?
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      08-01-2015, 10:19 PM   #34
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Use anti seize on the set screws and between the rotor and hub so they won't rust together.


IF the rotor is seized to the hub (it happens, especially if you use really heinous wheel cleaners), put the brake back together (leave the set screws out), put the wheel back on with the lug bolts hand tightened. Then move the car and jam the brakes. This *should* break the corrosion between the hub and the rotor.
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      08-02-2015, 11:58 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
Use anti seize on the set screws and between the rotor and hub so they won't rust together.


IF the rotor is seized to the hub (it happens, especially if you use really heinous wheel cleaners), put the brake back together (leave the set screws out), put the wheel back on with the lug bolts hand tightened. Then move the car and jam the brakes. This *should* break the corrosion between the hub and the rotor.
Nice idea.
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      03-05-2023, 12:07 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000gsr View Post
I got the front rotor off without removing the caliper. I'm attempting to replace the rear rotor, the caliper carrier bolts are a bitch to take off, so I tried to slide the rotor off like in the front but there is not enough clearance. Has anybody been able to take the rear rotor off without removing the caliper carrier?
Came across this while looking for info replacing my car’s rotors. The rear caliper carrier has to be removed to be able to remove the rotor. Can’t slide the rotor off with the carrier still in place like the fronts. Rear Caliper carrier bolt torque is 48 ft-lbs for e46 M3 and some other BMWs.
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