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      02-05-2015, 06:26 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by SkyNet View Post
I've spoken to a few mechanics who say you have to replace the rotors every time you replace pads. Is this accurate?
Not necessarily. If they are well above minimum thickness they will just do pads. If you track the car as I did I ran lots of sets of pads before rotor change.
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      04-05-2015, 04:18 PM   #134
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I changed my front pads today for the first time using this thread's treasure of usable information! I also used the opportunity to collect some essential gear for simple maintenance tasks, which might be of use to some others so here are my notes.

0. I never took the wheels off before, so I quickly realized that the shop does not torque them to 88 ft/lb but rather to twice that with an impact gun... So in addition to a 1/2-inch torque wrench it is also necessary to get a sizable breaker bar and an extra long impact 17mm socket. The extra long makes its possible to clear the wheel's rim with the wrench and the impact socket is safer than a normal socket (I sheared a cheaper simpler socket on my first try.)

1. I encountered a problem with my small metal jack head sitting uncomfortably against the hard plastic rectangular jacking brackets. After ordering a special adapter piece over ebay that did not arrive in time, I followed someone's advice and bought a $2 hockey puck as a sensible adapter. Worked safely and easily.

2. I did not open the brake fluid reservoir as I did not think the pressure makes any difference, and if there is a risk of overflow I'd rather have the lid on.
That worked fine.

3. All the actual work went exactly as expected from the detailed descriptions. The hardest bit is that you work blind, with your hands and sockets behind the wheel assembly. The upper retaining bolt requires an extension piece for your ratchet to get past the brake line. The retaining bolts only came out when I expanded the brake, before that I could unscrew them but they were still in the hole. Also, my brake pads were pretty far down to 4 mm or so, which made the expansion step with a screw drive a little harder, but it all worked. I also noticed that my brake seat and everything looked very dirty, but I had not special cleaner at hand so left it like that.

4. I was glad that I expected the glued-in outer OEM brake pad, which takes a firm attitude to pry out! Otherwise I would have been very worried at this stage.

5. The hardest bit was the putting the anti-rattle club back in. It took a lot of finger force to get the metal bits jointly into position and then pushing the centre bit in. Some swearing at that stage.

Overall, the first side took 90 minutes and the second side 40 minutes..

Safe travels!

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      05-05-2015, 10:21 PM   #135
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Drives: 2011 E92 M3 ZCP
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I did my first pad change a week ago as well thanks to this thread. I found the first rotor the worst, especially getting the clip back in. It was a lot easier getting the clips in on worn pads (my street ones). I also found it unnecessary to use any more than my hands to compress the caliper (just slowly work it from the top and bottom), and that way you won't chip any paint prying with screwdrivers...

Final note, and this might have been mentioned before, but if you still have the pad sensors connected, make sure you zip tie them as far back from the wheel as possible. The first change I did I apparently left the sensor to lose, and it rubbed against the wheel... almost right through the wire. Cheap part to replace though.
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      05-21-2015, 12:35 AM   #136
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My car just hit 62,000KM and the pads started squeaking. I bought a set of Stoptech Street Performance pads as a replacement. I was told that if these were installed carefully, I would not have to change the sensors. I guess something went wrong and now my iDrive shows me that the front and rear pads need to be replaced (this warning was never displayed before), the handbrake light is constantly on although the handbrake is fully pulled down, and the red light with the car on the hoist is on. I am hoping this all has to do with the brake pad sensors and it will disappear once I replace them. Just not sure why the handbrake light is on ....
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      05-26-2015, 05:17 PM   #137
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Sensor failure following brake replacement.

Hey guys, I just used this guide to replace the front brakes on my 2012 e92 M3 and it worked great, however I came across an issue about 3 or 4 weeks later:

I was driving down the highway and all of a sudden, my car went into limp mode. I took it to the shop, they read the codes and found out that my vacuum line with sensor from vacuum pump to brake booster was damaged.

A costly $600 replacement...

In doing more research into the cause, I found out that some brake fluid spilled into a vent and saturated a sensor connector causing the weather packing to swell.

So please be careful when compressing the piston in your brakes, make sure the excess does not drip on any sensors!
2012 E92 6MT M3 / ESS Tune / Akra Evo / OEM CF Splitters / OEM CF Spoiler / OEM Black Kidney Grills / LUX Angel eyes / CF Side Grills / Mineral White Painted Reflectors / VMR - 19" V710 Wheels
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      07-30-2015, 10:00 PM   #138
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Originally Posted by JBimmer-3 View Post
Fourth- Sensor install: Keep in mind that the sensor connection is underneath the under-lining of the wheel well. There are 6 bolts to take off in order to have enough room to disconnect old one and connect the new one. You must install this or your warning lights will continue to trip.

this. i thought it would be a good idea to replace my rear brakes with a spare hour i had. was jamming along until i got to the brake sensor replacement. they really hid the sensor in a PITA spot on the E90. on our E53 it's super easy access. i ended up saving the sensor as a job for another day.

another tip for anyone doing the rears that i learned the hard way long ago. be sure your parking brake is disengaged.
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