Wire Harness Thinning Thread

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by tsk94

Nothing more enjoyable then drilling out all those spot welds for the curtain air bags...

Drilling out all the welds for the roof to come off, was commensurate. Haha. Love using a flap wheel to shave bits down though.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by DRLane

Drilling out all the welds for the roof to come off, was commensurate. Haha. Love using a flap wheel to shave bits down though.

So excited for this, not... only downside of not having an off-season in CA is that it's hard to park the car in the garage for long projects when there are perfectly good racetracks to drive on 😂

[tlrid3r]

Both roof airbag is about 7lbs.

Recently removed all airbag and modules also remove all the radio, gps and Bluetooth.

Ended up getting a Xmas tree of light on the dash.

But used amg6975
Suggestion and all lights are sorted

“Unplug the ABG module completely then code the KOMBI:
SFY_ALIVE_ZAEHLER nicht _aktiv
SFY_ID_MONITOR nicht _aktiv

Then reset all errors in all modules. If this doesn't work you may need to plug everything back into the ABG, then code the KOMBI then remove the ABG.
QUOTE”

My car is about 3186lbs all interior panels with the exception of fiberlabs front door cards. With sound deadening and front carpet, headliner.

Removed small amount of wiring, about 3 lbs.

[TheStevo1000]

Can iDrive and the nav screen be completely removed without causing any issues? What about changing the settings for M Drive mode? Is there another way to do that without going through menus on the screen?

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by TheStevo1000

Can iDrive and the nav screen be completely removed without causing any issues? What about changing the settings for M Drive mode? Is there another way to do that without going through menus on the screen?

Yes you can remove it all and code everything and it works just fine (like a single hump car) but you lose a couple settings. You only have on/off for steering and throttle sport mode.

To set it you put the car in MDM, set everything how you want and then press and hold the M button. After 5-10 seconds the M icon in the dash will blink indicating your MDM settings are saved.

[TheStevo1000]

OK, got it. Thanks!

[tlrid3r]

Originally Posted by amg6975

Yes you can remove it all and code everything and it works just fine (like a single hump car) but you lose a couple settings. You only have on/off for steering and throttle sport mode.

To set it you put the car in MDM, set everything how you want and then press and hold the M button. After 5-10 seconds the M icon in the dash will blink indicating your MDM settings are saved.

Once again sharing great knowledge.
Thanks so much

[roastbeef]

I’m working on thinning some of the wire in my car, and came across this box that was mounted above the battery. A google search of the part number revealed it’s part of the keyless locking system. If I remove it, could I still use my fob? Anyone know? Dash is out of the car at the moment and can’t test jt.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

I’m working on thinning some of the wire in my car, and came across this box that was mounted above the battery. A google search of the part number revealed it’s part of the keyless locking system. If I remove it, could I still use my fob? Anyone know? Dash is out of the car at the moment and can’t test jt.

i think the CAS module is under dash so you should be okay. i would confirm that though.

[VicS5]

I removed mine and can still use buttons on fob to lock and unlock. I think that’s just a proximity sensor that enables passive unlocking when you are close to the car with the key.
The approach I took to wire thinning was to unplug the modules I wanted to remove , then wait and see whether things went sideways. Everything in the trunk is now gone, along with the wires that fed them. TPMS needs to be coded out.

FYI, the little plastic box under the driver’s seat on the floor is a gyro critical to stability control, and things do literally go sideways when that is removed.

[berns]

anyone know how to bypass the clutch switch? i want to put a clutch stop in my 6MT because i have a ton of unneded pedal travel, but, I won't be able to start the car because of the switch. Tried to code it out unsuccessfully... It's also related to cruise control which would be nice to keep, honestly, but not sure what's doable.

[VicS5]

I’d guess that it’s a simple single pole switch, but necessary since the conditions needed for cruise control and starting conflict with each other. Shorting the switch would make one of those conditions impossible to satisfy.
One approach would be to move the switch and replace it with a toggle that you can control without the clutch pedal - closed when you want to start the car and open when you want to use cruise control (or vice versa, depending on the nature of the stock switch) - but drilling new holes in the dash for a new toggle switch might not be an option on a car where cruise control is still desired. Maybe you could hide it in the footwell, even make it foot-activated.

[roastbeef]

so at some point, i'm going to need to get this thing programmed... and i'm thinking i'm going to have to do it before i do much more. some of this might be forum folklore, but its stuff i've read about over the years...

my main concern is the fiber optic loop... i accidentally left it undone a while back and it caused all kinds of problems.

second is airbags... the only airbag i have left is the steering wheel- mostly for aesthetics because i don't have a kmp yet, and i can't get rid of the module behind the handbrake without programming it off.

another area of concern is the hvac controls. from what i understand, you can't get rid of the control unit without the efan for the car not working right. i've read it just goes at full blast or something.

i didn't unplug anything new really, i just moved a huge loom of wire from the trunk to the driver's side rear footwell, but left behind the wire that powers the third brake light and the associated ground. i need to get to the back of the electrical panel that is behind where the glovebox would be, but its a lot of work and i'm thinking i should get the car programmed before i proceed further. pic for fun.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by berns

anyone know how to bypass the clutch switch? i want to put a clutch stop in my 6MT because i have a ton of unneded pedal travel, but, I won't be able to start the car because of the switch. Tried to code it out unsuccessfully... It's also related to cruise control which would be nice to keep, honestly, but not sure what's doable.

Based on my experience with the brake switch on a DCT car (required to start the car) you could pretty easily fab a bracket for the switch that moves the switch X mm closer/further to ensure engagement when you install the clutch stop.

[roastbeef]

anyone have a good lead on bmw tis wiring diagrams? all i'm finding is expensive paywalls and dead links.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

anyone have a good lead on bmw tis wiring diagrams? all i'm finding is expensive paywalls and dead links.

I have the general e9x giant manual. No longer needed if you’d like? It’s not M3 specific but does have the other models and I’m sure most of the harness / modules are matching. No charge but will send USPS media mail or whatever unless you want to pay shipping.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by DRLane

I have the general e9x giant manual. No longer needed if you’d like? It’s not M3 specific but does have the other models and I’m sure most of the harness / modules are matching. No charge but will send USPS media mail or whatever unless you want to pay shipping.

thats a generous offer, thank you. what do the diagrams look like? just curious.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

thats a generous offer, thank you. what do the diagrams look like? just curious.

Will text or email you photos tomorrow. Just pm good way to do so.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by DRLane

Will text or email you photos tomorrow. Just pm good way to do so.

i gained access to tis, so i should be good, thanks. i just have to figure out what i'm looking at. lol

edit- looking at some of the wiring diagrams... they are pretty much useless to me. i don't have the knowledge base to interpret them.

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by berns

anyone know how to bypass the clutch switch? i want to put a clutch stop in my 6MT because i have a ton of unneded pedal travel, but, I won't be able to start the car because of the switch. Tried to code it out unsuccessfully... It's also related to cruise control which would be nice to keep, honestly, but not sure what's doable.

Have you checked coding options? It seems like something that should be able to be simply coded out.

Originally Posted by roastbeef

so at some point, i'm going to need to get this thing programmed... and i'm thinking i'm going to have to do it before i do much more. some of this might be forum folklore, but its stuff i've read about over the years...

my main concern is the fiber optic loop... i accidentally left it undone a while back and it caused all kinds of problems.

second is airbags... the only airbag i have left is the steering wheel- mostly for aesthetics because i don't have a kmp yet, and i can't get rid of the module behind the handbrake without programming it off.

another area of concern is the hvac controls. from what i understand, you can't get rid of the control unit without the efan for the car not working right. i've read it just goes at full blast or something.

i didn't unplug anything new really, i just moved a huge loom of wire from the trunk to the driver's side rear footwell, but left behind the wire that powers the third brake light and the associated ground. i need to get to the back of the electrical panel that is behind where the glovebox would be, but its a lot of work and i'm thinking i should get the car programmed before i proceed further. pic for fun.

You should be able to remove the MOST loop as long as nothing is plugged into it in the back.

Just unplug the steering wheel airbag. Same thing as removing it.

The HVAC thing is just so if AC is on the radiator fan runs harder. This can be coded off. I don't know if that means you can remove the IHKA module though.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by amg6975

You should be able to remove the MOST loop as long as nothing is plugged into it in the back.

what do you mean by this? i've had the amp or comms unit (i can't remember which) unplugged for some time now, and it has a most cable in the harness... no issues. however, i left the most plug uncapped by the hood release once and the car would randomly turn off and had a bunch of other odd quirks.

[amg6975]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

what do you mean by this? i've had the amp or comms unit (i can't remember which) unplugged for some time now, and it has a most cable in the harness... no issues. however, i left the most plug uncapped by the hood release once and the car would randomly turn off and had a bunch of other odd quirks.

Hm. The only side effect I had from removing it was a clicking in the speakers, and I just had to code it out and it's fine now.