Angel Eyes recommendations please

[HKKid92]

Im comparing the AiB and Lux.
All the pictures for the Lux H8, difference, some have more blue, some don't. Could owners of the Lux H8 post an accurate view of what it looks like? Could I also get the same for the AiB from you folks? Thanks

[HKKid92]

nvm, im going with Lux. Everyone has literally voted for Lux on all the threads I've been looking at in this forum

[Legion5]

Thanks for all the appreciation. It's really good to hear.

Originally Posted by jaehshim

to chime in a little,
i've been searching on this for a long time too
No plans to HID+ballast on angel eye (i don't think it's neccessary), don't want the headlight brightness on my fog+angel eye.

so my choice is LED angel eye.
I was about to purchase the Lux 8, which is well known on this forum, but just came across another vendor e-92 lighting? selling Dtec angel eye LED bulbs for half the price and claiming that it has no flickering, and it will dim unlike the Lux.

Lux blubs do not flicker. I've owned 4 different sets since 2010 and none of them have ever had that issue. Most likely what you read is a rumor, fluke, outdated info or just plain made up. I can't find what you're discussing on e92 lighting's website, feel free to post a link.

some question out of my curiosity:
1. will the Lux 8 bulb flicker on start?

No that should never happen.

2. What really justifies the price of these? how come one brand is at ~130 and the other at ~240? it seems too much of a difference.

Most people make the mistake of underestimating the actual cost of the parts that goes into a set of LED angel eyes. They think "It's just some random cheap LED, why is it so expensive??". The reality is for an Angel Eye bulb to be any good, it needs to be about as bright as a headlight, which is literally hundreds of times brighter than just any random LED and requires some serious hardware.

Anyways the first and foremost difference between the Lux H8 and both DTEC v1 and v2 bulbs is that the Lux H8 is actually made from more than $140 of parts, either DTEC does not. The LEDs are the same units as the Lux in the DTEC v2 ($160 version) but the drivers are not. LUX's drivers are high end units that are designed to handle the current surges that come through the system such as the bulb check which is notorious for destroying LED bulbs within a year or less (I've had at several of these failures personally and it's a really annoying issue, very few LED drivers are designed properly, even when (and especially when) the manufacturer claims that their units are high quality and free of any issues). The Lux drivers also condition the current and manage the fade on/off function. The Lux drivers are custom units that are designed specifically for the electronic functions of the 3 series and cost $20 per side alone. The DTEC unit you're looking at just use bargain basement drivers that cost $3 or less from a chinese electronics supplier.

Also the specific DTEC v1 unit you're looking at for $130 is a peice of junk and is half as bright as it needs to be if I'm reading it correctly, it's a 10watt unit vs 20 watts for their v2 unit which is the absolute minimum sort of output you want for a decent result.

The cheaper one claims no error code nor flickering whatsoever, so perhaps why go with more expensive one? (just in the function stand point)

Thanks all for keeping us with good info, and also those vendors with fantastic products keep getting better and better!

I've said this before and I'll say it again. Even the best LED Angel Eye options barley work well, and ONLY the best options have the necessary electronics to guarantee the life of the unit. It's an extremely bad idea to be cheap on something where the most high end unit barley works well enough to begin with.

Hopefully that answers your questions.

[jaehshim]

Originally Posted by Legion5

Thanks for all the appreciation. It's really good to hear.



Lux blubs do not flicker. I've owned 4 different sets since 2010 and none of them have ever had that issue. Most likely what you read is a rumor, fluke, outdated info or just plain made up. I can't find what you're discussing on e92 lighting's website, feel free to post a link.



No that should never happen.



Most people make the mistake of underestimating the actual cost of the parts that goes into a set of LED angel eyes. They think "It's just some random cheap LED, why is it so expensive??". The reality is for an Angel Eye bulb to be any good, it needs to be about as bright as a headlight, which is literally hundreds of times brighter than just any random LED and requires some serious hardware.

Anyways the first and foremost difference between the Lux H8 and both DTEC v1 and v2 bulbs is that the Lux H8 is actually made from more than $140 of parts, either DTEC does not. The LEDs are the same units as the Lux in the DTEC v2 ($160 version) but the drivers are not. LUX's drivers are high end units that are designed to handle the current surges that come through the system such as the bulb check which is notorious for destroying LED bulbs within a year or less (I've had at several of these failures personally and it's a really annoying issue, very few LED drivers are designed properly, even when (and especially when) the manufacturer claims that their units are high quality and free of any issues). The Lux drivers also condition the current and manage the fade on/off function. The Lux drivers are custom units that are designed specifically for the electronic functions of the 3 series and cost $20 per side alone. The DTEC unit you're looking at just use bargain basement drivers that cost $3 or less from a chinese electronics supplier.

Also the specific DTEC v1 unit you're looking at for $130 is a peice of junk and is half as bright as it needs to be if I'm reading it correctly, it's a 10watt unit vs 20 watts for their v2 unit which is the absolute minimum sort of output you want for a decent result.





I've said this before and I'll say it again. Even the best LED Angel Eye options barley work well, and ONLY the best options have the necessary electronics to guarantee the life of the unit. It's an extremely bad idea to be cheap on something where the most high end unit barley works well enough to begin with.

Hopefully that answers your questions.

wow, thanks for your clarification
What I was really curious about LUX was the flickering issue.
I knew their reputation through long time, it's just that i searched/saw many threads regarding its flickering and LUX's response to it, and the conclusion i could draw from all observation was that "yea, it flickers, but just when you start the car, and it should be fine from that short period, just live with it"
I guess it shouldn't flicker at all, and from your review it implies that there shouldn't be any error code with the lux plug n play

[RGS]

lux
my favorite so far until I get bored of them and decide to get oss

[e90m3japan]

if and when it does flicker you can disable flickering by coding!!

[badazzm]

Orion V4 here! best ever. Worth the process.

[snowmants]

Originally Posted by Legion5

This isn't the best example but this is what LED seperation is:

I intentionally picked the Orion V2 over the V4 because I actually like the way these look with a little bit of separation. Call me crazy but I think they look more mechanical and less organic.