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      05-26-2016, 11:30 AM   #1
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No Warning tones / Speakers stops working

Sorry for posting in wrong section but this is section has the most traffic. I tried to search but no help I could find except replace the battery. Every-time I start the car in the morning or even just unlock the car, speakers make very loud tick sound (or whatever it is called) and then I get no warning tones on the i-drive display.

Did anyone have this issue before?
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      05-26-2016, 01:09 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-M3 View Post
Sorry for posting in wrong section but this is section has the most traffic. I tried to search but no help I could find except replace the battery. Every-time I start the car in the morning or even just unlock the car, speakers make very loud tick sound (or whatever it is called) and then I get no warning tones on the i-drive display.

Did anyone have this issue before?
That's a new one! I would try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery and then see if that solves the problem...
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      05-26-2016, 01:22 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by IIAp3x View Post
That's a new one! I would try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery and then see if that solves the problem...
Yes but no luck
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      05-26-2016, 02:26 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Bimmer-M3 View Post
Yes but no luck
Is it just related to audible warnings or is your whole sound system not working?

Do you still get the door chime at all?
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      05-26-2016, 02:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIAp3x View Post
Is it just related to audible warnings or is your whole sound system not working?

Do you still get the door chime at all?
Important as the tick might be something wigging out in the power amp (my home subwoofer did this before finally blowing an opamp) or something specific to warning
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      05-26-2016, 03:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIAp3x View Post
Is it just related to audible warnings or is your whole sound system not working?

Do you still get the door chime at all?
Loud tick then nothing from speakers then no warning tones on display. After few seconds sounds come back and everything is normal. It happens multiple times only cold starts but today there was nothing coming out of speakers not even tick sound. I hope that Amp is still working find and something small

Does anyone know where is the other end of battery cable? I want to make sure all connections are tight!
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      05-26-2016, 08:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-M3
Sorry for posting in wrong section but this is section has the most traffic. I tried to search but no help I could find except replace the battery. Every-time I start the car in the morning or even just unlock the car, speakers make very loud tick sound (or whatever it is called) and then I get no warning tones on the i-drive display.

Did anyone have this issue before?
I had the same issue this Feb. When I searched this forum, the threads I found seemed to point at water pooling under the audio amplifier causing some sort of grounding issue. It would seem the tail light brackets can loosen over time letting water drip into the void in the left side of the trunk and underneath the amp.

Anyway, when I looked in the trunk under the amp mount, clearly there were dried water spots. I went ahead and tightened the left taillight and visually inspected for moisture.

When I thought about it, the car had just been parked outside in a heavy thunderstorm. Normally it is in my garage and rarely driven in the rain so maybe that was the culprit...

That was the one and only time it has occurred.
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      05-26-2016, 08:58 PM   #8
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You have a faulty/failing component on the MOST bus. It's either the CIC, the AMP, or TCU/MULF or Combox.

Check the left corner of the trunk by the rear tail light for water ingress. Chances are the AMP got wet and shorted if it was recently in rain.
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      05-26-2016, 10:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
You have a faulty/failing component on the MOST bus. It's either the CIC, the AMP, or TCU/MULF or Combox.

Check the left corner of the trunk by the rear tail light for water ingress. Chances are the AMP got wet and shorted if it was recently in rain.
I am also suspecting something is failing but I don't believe I have a leak in my trunk. I will doublecheck to make sure.
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      05-26-2016, 10:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGBF18 View Post
I had the same issue this Feb. When I searched this forum, the threads I found seemed to point at water pooling under the audio amplifier causing some sort of grounding issue. It would seem the tail light brackets can loosen over time letting water drip into the void in the left side of the trunk and underneath the amp.

Anyway, when I looked in the trunk under the amp mount, clearly there were dried water spots. I went ahead and tightened the left taillight and visually inspected for moisture.

When I thought about it, the car had just been parked outside in a heavy thunderstorm. Normally it is in my garage and rarely driven in the rain so maybe that was the culprit...

That was the one and only time it has occurred.
had a very similar issue on an e92 that i was going to buy in the past from a dealer. Was about ready to take delivery but i noticed a weird sound as if the speakers were powerd onn. They looked into it and the amp was fried and there was water sitting somewhere in the cars frame. BMW ended up salvaging the car
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      06-01-2016, 08:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
You have a faulty/failing component on the MOST bus. It's either the CIC, the AMP, or TCU/MULF or Combox.

Check the left corner of the trunk by the rear tail light for water ingress. Chances are the AMP got wet and shorted if it was recently in rain.
I have checked all the connections and counterparts and I can confirm there is no sign of water ingress at all.

Is there anything else that might causing the problem? I also replaced the battery. The problem seems to happen only when there is a warning tone like seat belt and only at cold starts
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      06-01-2016, 09:54 PM   #12
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If you have it diagnosed, the failing control unit will likely be obvious. You can terminate each one until the issue no longer occurs. It has to be one of the items I listed in the previous post.
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      06-01-2016, 10:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
If you have it diagnosed, the failing control unit will likely be obvious. You can terminate each one until the issue no longer occurs. It has to be one of the items I listed in the previous post.
I guess I have to ask, is there easy way to terminate each one easily? I am assuming you are talking about the wire with red lights? Is there easy way to terminate it?
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      06-01-2016, 10:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
If you have it diagnosed, the failing control unit will likely be obvious. You can terminate each one until the issue no longer occurs. It has to be one of the items I listed in the previous post.
I guess I have to ask, is there easy way to terminate each one easily? I am assuming you are talking about the wire with red lights? Is there easy way to terminate it?
Yes, you can purchase a terminator and it will just plug in.
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      06-01-2016, 10:29 PM   #15
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Yes, you can purchase a terminator and it will just plug in.
Be careful the terminator doesn't become self aware and don't use SkyNet brand
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      06-01-2016, 10:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJT86 View Post
Be careful the terminator doesn't become self aware and don't use SkyNet brand
Would something like that work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1819582...&ul_noapp=true
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      06-04-2016, 11:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-M3
Quote:
Originally Posted by EJT86 View Post
Be careful the terminator doesn't become self aware and don't use SkyNet brand
Would something like that work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1819582...&ul_noapp=true
Yup, that should do the trick, but it's a strange one. The ones we use don't have the loop part, they just plug in. But that will work the same way.
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