Stuck rear rotors, save me from the big hammer

consolidated · 06-28-2010, 10:18 PM

For you guys who have replaced your rotors, mine seem to be stuck on pretty tight, lots of cussing in the garage tonight. I've gone so far as to try a 2# dead blow hammer but it's not budging.

I don't see a place for a push-out bolt on the carrier/hub. Did yours require some forcible persuasion to get off? Don't want to bend the fingers on the carrier but I'm about to hook a 4000# winch to it.

(yes, bolts are out)

rzm3 · 06-28-2010, 10:23 PM

It's all about leverage...

Try pulling at various locations and it will eventually come off.

Trier Germany · 06-28-2010, 10:31 PM

Soak the hub with penetrating oil and use your dead blow hammer you will be ok

JAJ · 06-28-2010, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by consolidated

For you guys who have replaced your rotors, mine seem to be stuck on pretty tight, lots of cussing in the garage tonight. I've gone so far as to try a 2# dead blow hammer but it's not budging.

I don't see a place for a push-out bolt on the carrier/hub. Did yours require some forcible persuasion to get off? Don't want to bend the fingers on the carrier but I'm about to hook a 4000# winch to it.

(yes, bolts are out)

You took the retaining bolts out, right?

(sorry - had to ask)

Mine came off with no fuss at all.

Hammer them inward all the way around with your dead blow hammer - once they come loose they just about fall off. In fact, I screwed a wheel bolt into one of the holes to make sure they didn't fall off!

dawgdog · 06-29-2010, 07:11 AM

As I recall mine took a fair amount of persuasion when I had my BBK installed.

JAJ · 06-29-2010, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by consolidated

For you guys who have replaced your rotors, mine seem to be stuck on pretty tight, lots of cussing in the garage tonight. I've gone so far as to try a 2# dead blow hammer but it's not budging.

I don't see a place for a push-out bolt on the carrier/hub. Did yours require some forcible persuasion to get off? Don't want to bend the fingers on the carrier but I'm about to hook a 4000# winch to it.

(yes, bolts are out)

How did it go? Are they off yet?

If it's the rear you're struggling with, make sure the handbrake is off. I've made that mistake.

If they're stuck from corrosion, the thing that gets them loose is not force but shock. Hit them with your dead-blow hammer or even a heavy 2# regular hammer. Corrosion is like cement - strong under steady pressure, but it shatters when it takes an impact.

Mavrick151 · 06-29-2010, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAJ

If they're stuck from corrosion, the thing that gets them loose is not force but shock. Hit them with your dead-blow hammer or even a heavy 2# regular hammer. Corrosion is like cement - strong under steady pressure, but it shatters when it takes an impact.

+1

haze gray · 06-29-2010, 11:41 PM

+2

consolidated · 06-30-2010, 09:51 PM

Thanks gents. I let it sit overnight with penetrating oil, got it up in the air and two big wacks with a dead blow popped it.

Malek@MRF · 07-01-2010, 07:14 AM

Ok, I know this is a dumb question I am asking, and is in no way meant to be insulting, but did you make sure your E-Brake is NOT activated??

The rotors should slide right off no problem with a very light tap on each side.

quality_sound · 07-01-2010, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Malekreza11

Ok, I know this is a dumb question I am asking, and is in no way meant to be insulting, but did you make sure your E-Brake is NOT activated??

The rotors should slide right off no problem with a very light tap on each side.

It depends greatly on the conditions the car is subjected to. California cars, especially SoCal cars are ridiculously easy to work on because there's almost no rust. A light blow WILL loosen the rotors on them. Contrast that with a NorEast car and your opinon will change.

A sugestion to make everything easier next time, put some anti-sieze on both sides of the hubs and the wheels AND rotors will come off easily next time.

consolidated · 07-01-2010, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Malekreza11

Ok, I know this is a dumb question I am asking, and is in no way meant to be insulting, but did you make sure your E-Brake is NOT activated??

The rotors should slide right off no problem with a very light tap on each side.

It's usually the obvious solution that works isn't it, so no insult taken. Yes, two bolts out and parking brake off. The back side of the rotor was just bonded to the hub with a little corrosion. It took getting it up in the air to get a good backswing at it. The fronts fell off by themselves, I think it's the parking brake at the rear that adds dust and more contact surfaces that makes it stick.

GT3 Tim · 07-01-2010, 11:21 AM

Glad to hear they are off!

I would recommend you sand off all corrosion on the hub and rotor and apply some anti-seize before re-installing them.

bimmer254 · 08-20-2015, 01:03 PM

Do you have to take off the control arm that's bolted to the rear calipers to take out the rotors? If so, how much torque do you apply when reinstalling?

Hopefully my sentence makes sense.

NoSHAM3 · 08-20-2015, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bimmer254

Do you have to take off the control arm that's bolted to the rear calipers to take out the rotors? If so, how much torque do you apply when reinstalling?

Hopefully my sentence makes sense.

No. You only have to remove the caliper, caliper bracket, and set screws. Also make sure your ebrake is off. Removing rotors off of the M3 is the same process as any other car.

bimmer254 · 08-28-2015, 08:15 AM

Sounds good, thanks for the reply!

tdott · 08-28-2015, 08:38 AM

Sometimes backing out the parking brake adjustment from inside helps. The other option is to try to get to in hub adjusters from the holes on the rotor, this would back out the parking brake shoes to clear the rust.

I don't like wacking them with a hammer (on my own car) because it puts all the stress on the backing plate hold downs which are known to rust away and no longer hold or worst case you damage the backing plate when hammering them out.

Amirsm3 · 08-28-2015, 09:53 AM

^ You mean the dust shield?

Op, I sprayed some PB blaster on the hub and waited about 45 minutes and tapped around the edges with a rubber mallet. Rotor came off pretty easily after that.

Scrippy · 08-30-2015, 09:50 PM

Don't mean to offend but.......the E-brake isn't on by chance is it? If so that's your problem. It's kind of a no brainier but I've done it myself

Delete:I just saw the guys in front of me.

slawless · 08-31-2015, 10:07 PM

I would second the penetrating oil. It worked very well for me. look in the lug nut holes and put some in at the point where the rotor meets the hub.

Another issue with the rears. The rotor was loose but would not come off. The Ebrake was off but still grabbing. I had to turn the E brake adjusting wheel to remove the last bit of grip.

06-28-2010, 10:18 PM	#1
consolidated Lieutenant Colonel 205 Rep 1,864 Posts Drives: F80 M3 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Texas iTrader: (2) Garage List 2016 Porsche GT4 [0.00] 1999 Porsche Spec B ... [0.00] 2014 Ram 1500 Laram ... [0.00] 2007 Porsche GT3 RS [10.00] 2013 Tesla Model S 85 [0.00]	Stuck rear rotors, save me from the big hammer For you guys who have replaced your rotors, mine seem to be stuck on pretty tight, lots of cussing in the garage tonight. I've gone so far as to try a 2# dead blow hammer but it's not budging. I don't see a place for a push-out bolt on the carrier/hub. Did yours require some forcible persuasion to get off? Don't want to bend the fingers on the carrier but I'm about to hook a 4000# winch to it. (yes, bolts are out) __________________ F80 M3 / Mineral Grey-Silverstone / CCB
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06-28-2010, 10:23 PM	#2
rzm3 Moderator 673 Rep 4,737 Posts Drives: E92 M3 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: USA iTrader: (18)	It's all about leverage... Try pulling at various locations and it will eventually come off.
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06-28-2010, 10:31 PM	#3
Trier Germany Banned 58 Rep 1,084 Posts Drives: 2009 E-90 M3 space gray Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Deutschland KreisTrier auf Autobahn 64 & Tucson AZ iTrader: (1)	Soak the hub with penetrating oil and use your dead blow hammer you will be ok
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06-29-2010, 07:11 AM	#5
dawgdog Colonel 148 Rep 2,278 Posts Drives: 2015 M3, 2016 GT3 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Seattle, Wa. iTrader: (0)	As I recall mine took a fair amount of persuasion when I had my BBK installed. __________________ 2015 f80 M3, 2016 GT3
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06-29-2010, 11:41 PM	#8
haze gray Second Lieutenant 5 Rep 264 Posts Drives: 2009 M3 Coupe / 2011 X5 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern Virginia iTrader: (0)	+2
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06-30-2010, 09:51 PM	#9
consolidated Lieutenant Colonel 205 Rep 1,864 Posts Drives: F80 M3 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Texas iTrader: (2) Garage List 2016 Porsche GT4 [0.00] 1999 Porsche Spec B ... [0.00] 2014 Ram 1500 Laram ... [0.00] 2007 Porsche GT3 RS [10.00] 2013 Tesla Model S 85 [0.00]	Thanks gents. I let it sit overnight with penetrating oil, got it up in the air and two big wacks with a dead blow popped it. __________________ F80 M3 / Mineral Grey-Silverstone / CCB
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07-01-2010, 07:14 AM	#10
Malek@MRF BimmerPost Supporting Vendor 731 Rep 3,735 Posts Drives: E92 M3, E46 M3, G82 M4 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Irvine, California iTrader: (5)	Ok, I know this is a dumb question I am asking, and is in no way meant to be insulting, but did you make sure your E-Brake is NOT activated?? The rotors should slide right off no problem with a very light tap on each side. __________________ BMW PERFORMANCE SPECIALISTS. Race Engines. Suspension. F/I. Brakes. Race Preparation. Factory Service. Alignments. OFFICIAL PARTNERS: KW. MOTON. Brembo. AP Racing. BBS Motorsport. iND. HRE. Turner Motorsport. VAC. BMW Motorsport. Facebook \| Instagram \| Yelp! \| Flikr Phone: 949-233-0448 \| E-Mail: info@mrfengineering.com
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07-01-2010, 11:21 AM	#13
GT3 Tim Moderator 94 Rep 1,920 Posts Drives: 2014 MB E63S Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Sacramento, CA iTrader: (0)	Glad to hear they are off! I would recommend you sand off all corrosion on the hub and rotor and apply some anti-seize before re-installing them. __________________ Tim <--- apparently likes "3" cars 2014 E63S -- The Rocket 2014 F30 328i -- Kids car 2008 E90 M3 -- Sold 2004 GT3 -- Sold 1997 M3/4 -- Sold 1995 M3 -- Sold
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08-20-2015, 01:03 PM	#14
bimmer254 Mvua 17 Rep 75 Posts Drives: BMW (E92) Join Date: May 2014 Location: Twin Cities/Bungoma iTrader: (0)	Do you have to take off the control arm that's bolted to the rear calipers to take out the rotors? If so, how much torque do you apply when reinstalling? Hopefully my sentence makes sense. __________________ 08' E93 M3 6M/T \| 12' F30 N20 6M/T SPORT \| 08' E92 N52 6/MT (SOLD).
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08-28-2015, 08:15 AM	#16
bimmer254 Mvua 17 Rep 75 Posts Drives: BMW (E92) Join Date: May 2014 Location: Twin Cities/Bungoma iTrader: (0)	Sounds good, thanks for the reply! __________________ 08' E93 M3 6M/T \| 12' F30 N20 6M/T SPORT \| 08' E92 N52 6/MT (SOLD).
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08-28-2015, 08:38 AM	#17
tdott Brigadier General 3941 Rep 3,988 Posts Drives: M3 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South FL / 6ix iTrader: (4)	Sometimes backing out the parking brake adjustment from inside helps. The other option is to try to get to in hub adjusters from the holes on the rotor, this would back out the parking brake shoes to clear the rust. I don't like wacking them with a hammer (on my own car) because it puts all the stress on the backing plate hold downs which are known to rust away and no longer hold or worst case you damage the backing plate when hammering them out. __________________ N/A S65 Headers Before/After Dyno Results
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08-28-2015, 09:53 AM	#18
Amirsm3 Brigadier General 514 Rep 3,482 Posts Drives: 2011 Space Grey e90 M3 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Williams/Flagstaff, AZ iTrader: (3)	^ You mean the dust shield? Op, I sprayed some PB blaster on the hub and waited about 45 minutes and tapped around the edges with a rubber mallet. Rotor came off pretty easily after that. __________________ 2011 e90 M3 Space Grey DCT ZCP- eAs, BMW Performance, Agency Power, Macht Schnell, iND, Milltek, Volk, Challenge, Stoptech, Ohlins BMWCCA:518970
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08-30-2015, 09:50 PM	#19
Scrippy Lord Scrip 1812 Rep 3,013 Posts Drives: 2011 M3 Coupe Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: LA,Ca iTrader: (0) Garage List [0.00] 2007 BMW 335i [0.00]	Don't mean to offend but.......the E-brake isn't on by chance is it? If so that's your problem. It's kind of a no brainier but I've done it myself Delete:I just saw the guys in front of me. __________________
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08-31-2015, 10:07 PM	#20
slawless Private 20 Rep 58 Posts Drives: 2008 E92 M3 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Wilmington, DE iTrader: (0)	I would second the penetrating oil. It worked very well for me. look in the lug nut holes and put some in at the point where the rotor meets the hub. Another issue with the rears. The rotor was loose but would not come off. The Ebrake was off but still grabbing. I had to turn the E brake adjusting wheel to remove the last bit of grip.
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