Using 02 extenders with primary cat delete

[sftitanium5]

I understand the consensus is that with primary Cat delete it’s very difficult to get your OBD two readiness monitors to set using O2 extenders. With that being said there are a good number of people that have managed to do so. I have the 45° angle 02 extenders in place and it seems that one bank is fine and not getting any codes, however the other bank is getting the codes displayed below. Do identical set ups. From what I understand because because because the O2 sensor is pushed too far out of the exhaust stream making its response time from lean to rich delayed triggering the code.Has anybody else dealt with this and managed to make it work, I’m gonna try a different O2 extender that’s just directly pushes it out not a 45° angle want to see what happens

[dmz_m3]

From what I've read on these forums it seems that O2 extenders are not reliable. Your best options if you don't want codes thrown would be a tune. If your main objective is readiness though, I'm honestly not sure how to go about this (no emissions testing for passenger vehicles where I live).

Hopefully someone else can chime in with some more info if that's your goal.

[sftitanium5]

Yeah it’s just temporary to smog and the. Put my tune right back on

[CamasM3e93]

To clarify, since it's unsaid, the extenders go in the downstream oxygen sensor position. The downstream sensors (closest to the tailpipe) are there to check on the efficiency of the cats. So they send a check engine light if the cat is removed or losing effectiveness due to age. They have no function in operation of the vehicle, gas / air mixture, etc. Some people will leave plugs in this position and zip tie their downstream sensors out of the way or disconnect them altogether, usually in track car circumstances.

I ran 90 degree spacers on my downstream position for about 8 months with no subsequent check engine light. However, once I hit summer I threw CEL codes twice in a couple weeks. I cleared them with my OBDII scanner easily enough - though I've heard that the ECU stops allowing you to reset the code after a few tries.

Also, should mention the sensor extenders are challenging to simultaneously tighten down and have in the position you want and need. I ended up lashing mine down with hose clamps which does the job but isn't exactly in the spirit of a German engineered vehicle.

I subsequently installed a turbocharger with software that disabled the codes from the downstream oxygen sensors.

Highly recommend just getting a stage II tune and moving on. BPM and Alpine seem to be the most talked about on the forum.

[sftitanium5]

I have a tune this is just for smog readiness and switching to stock tune and not having to remove test pipes. Insight is helpful and interesting the 90 degree worked for you. I am perplexed as one side is fine and not throwing codes and thinking I must have damaged the wiring on the side throwing codes. It's gppd to know that it can work. Not sure I understand how you rigged the sensors with hose clamps?

Originally Posted by CamasM3e93

To clarify, since it's unsaid, the extenders go in the downstream oxygen sensor position. The downstream sensors (closest to the tailpipe) are there to check on the efficiency of the cats. So they send a check engine light if the cat is removed or losing effectiveness due to age. They have no function in operation of the vehicle, gas / air mixture, etc. Some people will leave plugs in this position and zip tie their downstream sensors out of the way or disconnect them altogether, usually in track car circumstances.

I ran 90 degree spacers on my downstream position for about 8 months with no subsequent check engine light. However, once I hit summer I threw CEL codes twice in a couple weeks. I cleared them with my OBDII scanner easily enough - though I've heard that the ECU stops allowing you to reset the code after a few tries.

Also, should mention the sensor extenders are challenging to simultaneously tighten down and have in the position you want and need. I ended up lashing mine down with hose clamps which does the job but isn't exactly in the spirit of a German engineered vehicle.

I subsequently installed a turbocharger with software that disabled the codes from the downstream oxygen sensors.

Highly recommend just getting a stage II tune and moving on. BPM and Alpine seem to be the most talked about on the forum.

[sftitanium5]

I meant to ask earlier - what cel codes did you throw? Cat effeciency? I am getting an odd code I have never seen on any of my cars. P016d? I would have expected a cat effeciency code. Another reason I thought may have damaged the 02 wiring.



once I hit summer I threw CEL codes twice in a couple weeks. I cleared them with my OBDII scanner easily enough - though I've heard that the ECU stops allowing you to reset the code after a few tries.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by CamasM3e93

To clarify, since it's unsaid, the extenders go in the downstream oxygen sensor position. The downstream sensors (closest to the tailpipe) are there to check on the efficiency of the cats. So they send a check engine light if the cat is removed or losing effectiveness due to age. They have no function in operation of the vehicle, gas / air mixture, etc. Some people will leave plugs in this position and zip tie their downstream sensors out of the way or disconnect them altogether, usually in track car circumstances.

I ran 90 degree spacers on my downstream position for about 8 months with no subsequent check engine light. However, once I hit summer I threw CEL codes twice in a couple weeks. I cleared them with my OBDII scanner easily enough - though I've heard that the ECU stops allowing you to reset the code after a few tries.

Also, should mention the sensor extenders are challenging to simultaneously tighten down and have in the position you want and need. I ended up lashing mine down with hose clamps which does the job but isn't exactly in the spirit of a German engineered vehicle.

I subsequently installed a turbocharger with software that disabled the codes from the downstream oxygen sensors.

Highly recommend just getting a stage II tune and moving on. BPM and Alpine seem to be the most talked about on the forum.

I want to hear more about the turbocharger 😆

[CamasM3e93]

Originally Posted by DRLane

I want to hear more about the turbocharger 😆

Face to palm. Yeah, supercharger.

My wife drives the turbocharged Mercedes GLC 300 and we just picked up a twin turbo V8 in the Mercedes E550. Most of my car brain has been over there the last couple of weeks and I must have turbos on my mind.

[CamasM3e93]

Originally Posted by sftitanium5

I have a tune this is just for smog readiness and switching to stock tune and not having to remove test pipes. Insight is helpful and interesting the 90 degree worked for you. I am perplexed as one side is fine and not throwing codes and thinking I must have damaged the wiring on the side throwing codes. It's gppd to know that it can work. Not sure I understand how you rigged the sensors with hose clamps?

Well, as you can see in this highly technical CADD drawing, I've got the O2 sensors arranged parallel to the test pipe, coming off the 90 degree elbow. I can't simultaneously have the elbow tight to the test pipe and in the proper orientation, so the 90 degree elbow is a little loose. (Were I to tighten the elbow, the O2 sensors would hang down and I'd lose ground clearance, I couldn't get adding washers to work out).

It's tight enough to create a seal, but not tight enough to prevent vibration and rattling. So I've got a hose clamp across the test pipe and the body of the oxygen sensor, with enough tension to stop the rattle.

[sftitanium5]

Originally Posted by CamasM3e93

Attachment 2674291

Well, as you can see in this highly technical CADD drawing, I've got the O2 sensors arranged parallel to the test pipe, coming off the 90 degree elbow. I can't simultaneously have the elbow tight to the test pipe and in the proper orientation, so the 90 degree elbow is a little loose. (Were I to tighten the elbow, the O2 sensors would hang down and I'd lose ground clearance, I couldn't get adding washers to work out).

It's tight enough to create a seal, but not tight enough to prevent vibration and rattling. So I've got a hose clamp across the test pipe and the body of the oxygen sensor, with enough tension to stop the rattle.

Makes perfect sense now thanks for elaborating. Most the extenders will have a bolt you can tighten in addition to position and secure. I am going to play around with it more tonight. Will keep you updated on my progress.

[slawless]

I have used these on an E46 M3

https://www.fabspeed.com/fabspeed-un...nverters-pair/

They are somewhat big and not cheap. the cylinder is a very small metal cat. They work well on the E46. you may need a longer wire on the O2 sensor on the E92.