Intermittent Limp Mode w/Codes

agl1911 · 05-12-2022, 02:04 PM

Hi Everyone, hoping to get the collective brain power of the forum to help me track down an intermittent issue I am experiencing. The car will go into limp mode and on restart runs fine below are the details of what I am experiencing and also some of the things I have found.

Car Details
2008 E90 M3
Location: southern california
Mileage: ~64K miles
Usage: Mainly a HPDE car, low commuter not uncommon for the car to sit for a week+
Mods: Suspension, Brakes, remus muffler, NO TUNE nor engine mods
Maintenance: have NOT done 60K maintenance so no new spark plugs, battery is probably more than 8 years old. Throttle Actuator Bank 1 replaced at ~49K, Throttle Actuator Bank 2 replaced at ~61K. I have done both of these myself.

What I am Experiencing:
The issue I am experiencing is intermittent and does NOT happen everytime i take it out. When it does happen the car goes into limp mode within 15 minutes from start up and has only occurred on surface streets Never during a HPDE event or freeway... not once. When it happens I immediately pull over power down the car and restart and issue goes away. When the issue happens I am usually going no more than 30mph or so maybe even less. Prior to the car going into limp mode it is running fine, post limp mode restart the car runs fine as far as I can tell.

On start up i have noticed and cant recall if its normal sound but the car on start before its warm sounds burbly... i know its not a word but trying to describe the sound. The burbly/throaty sound goes away once its warmer and the idle does NOT bounce around its pretty steady.

The Error Codes:

All error codes are listed below and occurs every time when an Engine light/limp mode comes on. Attached image for reference and codes pulled are from a Launch reader.

279D - DME: Power management, closed circuit violation
2B39 - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 5
2B3A - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 6
2B3B - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 7
2B3C - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 8
2B41 - DME: Misfire with cutout, Several Cylinders
2738 - DME: Charge Plausibility, Diagnosis, Cold Start Strategy Bank 2

I have searched on this forum and have come up with threads that are kinda like my issue but not really. I plan on doing the following partly because of maintenance items but also from what i have read on this forum.

1) replace all spark plugs
2) replace battery to OE spec
3) replace O2 sensors... read it on a thread that might cause a misfire but which ones do i replace?

Any input on this would be great, this is only happening to the on bank of cylinders which leads me to believe its a localized problem to that side. someone suggested i swap the Coil packs from one bank to the other to see if the problem follows the coil packs

. Before i start ordering parts and investing the time to work on it I'd really like some input if anyone has actually had this problem and what the fix was or based on their experience what the issue could. Thanks everyone!

nycplumber · 05-12-2022, 02:56 PM

Surprised you're not getting 2b21 because that looks like TA

agl1911 · 05-12-2022, 04:05 PM

well that is the last TA i replaced about 6 months ago and that controls the 5/6/7/8 cylinders. It's possible the one i purchased from FCPeuro is bad but is unlikely. I could swap the actuators and see if the problem follows the bank TA

.

smokinjoe64 · 05-12-2022, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by agl1911

Hi Everyone, hoping to get the collective brain power of the forum to help me track down an intermittent issue I am experiencing. The car will go into limp mode and on restart runs fine below are the details of what I am experiencing and also some of the things I have found.

Car Details
2008 E90 M3
Location: southern california
Mileage: ~64K miles
Usage: Mainly a HPDE car, low commuter not uncommon for the car to sit for a week+
Mods: Suspension, Brakes, remus muffler, NO TUNE nor engine mods
Maintenance: have NOT done 60K maintenance so no new spark plugs, battery is probably more than 8 years old. Throttle Actuator Bank 1 replaced at ~49K, Throttle Actuator Bank 2 replaced at ~61K. I have done both of these myself.

What I am Experiencing:
The issue I am experiencing is intermittent and does NOT happen everytime i take it out. When it does happen the car goes into limp mode within 15 minutes from start up and has only occurred on surface streets Never during a HPDE event or freeway... not once. When it happens I immediately pull over power down the car and restart and issue goes away. When the issue happens I am usually going no more than 30mph or so maybe even less. Prior to the car going into limp mode it is running fine, post limp mode restart the car runs fine as far as I can tell.

On start up i have noticed and cant recall if its normal sound but the car on start before its warm sounds burbly... i know its not a word but trying to describe the sound. The burbly/throaty sound goes away once its warmer and the idle does NOT bounce around its pretty steady.

The Error Codes:

All error codes are listed below and occurs every time when an Engine light/limp mode comes on. Attached image for reference and codes pulled are from a Launch reader.

279D - DME: Power management, closed circuit violation
2B39 - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 5
2B3A - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 6
2B3B - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 7
2B3C - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 8
2B41 - DME: Misfire with cutout, Several Cylinders
2738 - DME: Charge Plausibility, Diagnosis, Cold Start Strategy Bank 2

I have searched on this forum and have come up with threads that are kinda like my issue but not really. I plan on doing the following partly because of maintenance items but also from what i have read on this forum.

1) replace all spark plugs
2) replace battery to OE spec
3) replace O2 sensors... read it on a thread that might cause a misfire but which ones do i replace?

Any input on this would be great, this is only happening to the on bank of cylinders which leads me to believe its a localized problem to that side. someone suggested i swap the Coil packs from one bank to the other to see if the problem follows the coil packs

. Before i start ordering parts and investing the time to work on it I'd really like some input if anyone has actually had this problem and what the fix was or based on their experience what the issue could. Thanks everyone!

Unfortunately, there's actually a TON of similar posts [including my own; specifically related to bank 2 issues; multiple efforts, repairs, etc]

Highly Suggest - Search/check further before beginning actions, spending $$ or from simply going with random 'responses/posts'.

agl1911 · 05-12-2022, 08:55 PM

I'll look for your post and see what i can gather. Did you happen to work your issues out? i could always take it to a dealership but im trying to understand if they will have any better luck troubleshooting than I would. If they are going to just start replacing shit its no different to what i can do

.

Quote:

Originally Posted by smokinjoe64

Unfortunately, there's actually a TON of similar posts [including my own; specifically related to bank 2 issues; multiple efforts, repairs, etc]

Highly Suggest - Search/check further before beginning actions, spending $$ or from simply going with random 'responses/posts'.

omgzirra_exe · 05-13-2022, 01:36 PM

check all your ground cables to see if they have any rust or if it's falling apart.

especially the one next to the transmission.

upstream o2 sensors are what you want to replace. you can swap the driver and passenger side and see if the code follows.

alternatively you could just have a blown donut gasket. (wouldn't cause limp from my experience, but misfire codes)

$40 fix while you're under the car checking, i suggest using the felco chevy camaro gaskets and just removing the inner ring and filing the gasket down a bit, it'll crush between the header and midpipe when you tighten it down.

agl1911 · 05-14-2022, 02:21 PM

Omgzirra, thanks for the input do you know if there is a map or image of where all the ground cables could be? Also, noticed in your profile you are in the LBC... same here

Quote:

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

check all your ground cables to see if they have any rust or if it's falling apart.

especially the one next to the transmission.

upstream o2 sensors are what you want to replace. you can swap the driver and passenger side and see if the code follows.

alternatively you could just have a blown donut gasket. (wouldn't cause limp from my experience, but misfire codes)

$40 fix while you're under the car checking, i suggest using the felco chevy camaro gaskets and just removing the inner ring and filing the gasket down a bit, it'll crush between the header and midpipe when you tighten it down.

omgzirra_exe · 05-14-2022, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by agl1911

Omgzirra, thanks for the input do you know if there is a map or image of where all the ground cables could be? Also, noticed in your profile you are in the LBC... same here

I don't have a pic, but once you jack your car up, its on the driver side right next to the xpipe upstream (primary cat).

agl1911 · 06-16-2022, 12:51 PM

Just thought I’d update this with what’s happening now. So, the issue has NOT returned. I got some feedback from another enthusiast who asked some questions regarding gas. And admittedly I had switched to Arco/Costco gas about a month or so before the issue started happening. Well, I ran injector cleaner and went back to 76/shell/chevron and the issue has yet to return. I have done nothing else since this started however I do plan on an oil change and new plugs in the near future. Not sure if that was the smoking gun but I’ll continue to monitor.

When the guy made the suggestion at the time it was hard for me to believe that the type of gas could possibly be the cause. I was having this issue EVERY time I ran the car when the issue began. Since the cleaner and switch, not a single CEL. 🤷🏽

deansbimmer · 06-16-2022, 12:59 PM

You have a closed circuit current violation, which means a component is waking the car when it's off. Nothing should do that, so you should start there and identify which component is faulty- it could be the root problem to the remaining faults.

You need to run the ISTA-D test plan for the fault before replacing anything. Otherwise you're just guessing and throwing parts at it.

05-12-2022, 02:04 PM	#1
agl1911 Enlisted Member 3 Rep 32 Posts Drives: 2008 E90 M3, NC miata Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Socal iTrader: (0)	Intermittent Limp Mode w/Codes Hi Everyone, hoping to get the collective brain power of the forum to help me track down an intermittent issue I am experiencing. The car will go into limp mode and on restart runs fine below are the details of what I am experiencing and also some of the things I have found. Car Details 2008 E90 M3 Location: southern california Mileage: ~64K miles Usage: Mainly a HPDE car, low commuter not uncommon for the car to sit for a week+ Mods: Suspension, Brakes, remus muffler, NO TUNE nor engine mods Maintenance: have NOT done 60K maintenance so no new spark plugs, battery is probably more than 8 years old. Throttle Actuator Bank 1 replaced at ~49K, Throttle Actuator Bank 2 replaced at ~61K. I have done both of these myself. What I am Experiencing: The issue I am experiencing is intermittent and does NOT happen everytime i take it out. When it does happen the car goes into limp mode within 15 minutes from start up and has only occurred on surface streets Never during a HPDE event or freeway... not once. When it happens I immediately pull over power down the car and restart and issue goes away. When the issue happens I am usually going no more than 30mph or so maybe even less. Prior to the car going into limp mode it is running fine, post limp mode restart the car runs fine as far as I can tell. On start up i have noticed and cant recall if its normal sound but the car on start before its warm sounds burbly... i know its not a word but trying to describe the sound. The burbly/throaty sound goes away once its warmer and the idle does NOT bounce around its pretty steady. The Error Codes: All error codes are listed below and occurs every time when an Engine light/limp mode comes on. Attached image for reference and codes pulled are from a Launch reader. 279D - DME: Power management, closed circuit violation 2B39 - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 5 2B3A - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 6 2B3B - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 7 2B3C - DME: Misfire with cutoff, CYL. 8 2B41 - DME: Misfire with cutout, Several Cylinders 2738 - DME: Charge Plausibility, Diagnosis, Cold Start Strategy Bank 2 I have searched on this forum and have come up with threads that are kinda like my issue but not really. I plan on doing the following partly because of maintenance items but also from what i have read on this forum. 1) replace all spark plugs 2) replace battery to OE spec 3) replace O2 sensors... read it on a thread that might cause a misfire but which ones do i replace? Any input on this would be great, this is only happening to the on bank of cylinders which leads me to believe its a localized problem to that side. someone suggested i swap the Coil packs from one bank to the other to see if the problem follows the coil packs. Before i start ordering parts and investing the time to work on it I'd really like some input if anyone has actually had this problem and what the fix was or based on their experience what the issue could. Thanks everyone! Attached Images
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

05-12-2022, 02:56 PM	#2
nycplumber Major 686 Rep 1,230 Posts Drives: slow Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: nyc iTrader: (0)	Surprised you're not getting 2b21 because that looks like TA
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-12-2022, 04:05 PM	#3
agl1911 Enlisted Member 3 Rep 32 Posts Drives: 2008 E90 M3, NC miata Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Socal iTrader: (0)	well that is the last TA i replaced about 6 months ago and that controls the 5/6/7/8 cylinders. It's possible the one i purchased from FCPeuro is bad but is unlikely. I could swap the actuators and see if the problem follows the bank TA.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-13-2022, 01:36 PM	#6
omgzirra_exe Lieutenant Colonel 1490 Rep 1,700 Posts Drives: 4.4L M3, IS300 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Long Beach, CA iTrader: (0)	check all your ground cables to see if they have any rust or if it's falling apart. especially the one next to the transmission. upstream o2 sensors are what you want to replace. you can swap the driver and passenger side and see if the code follows. alternatively you could just have a blown donut gasket. (wouldn't cause limp from my experience, but misfire codes) $40 fix while you're under the car checking, i suggest using the felco chevy camaro gaskets and just removing the inner ring and filing the gasket down a bit, it'll crush between the header and midpipe when you tighten it down. __________________ Build: ZillaSpec M3 N1 Build M3Post Track General Discussion: Discord #fakeGTS
	Appreciate 1 agl19113.00 Quote

06-16-2022, 12:51 PM	#9
agl1911 Enlisted Member 3 Rep 32 Posts Drives: 2008 E90 M3, NC miata Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Socal iTrader: (0)	Just thought I’d update this with what’s happening now. So, the issue has NOT returned. I got some feedback from another enthusiast who asked some questions regarding gas. And admittedly I had switched to Arco/Costco gas about a month or so before the issue started happening. Well, I ran injector cleaner and went back to 76/shell/chevron and the issue has yet to return. I have done nothing else since this started however I do plan on an oil change and new plugs in the near future. Not sure if that was the smoking gun but I’ll continue to monitor. When the guy made the suggestion at the time it was hard for me to believe that the type of gas could possibly be the cause. I was having this issue EVERY time I ran the car when the issue began. Since the cleaner and switch, not a single CEL. 🤷🏽
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-16-2022, 12:59 PM	#10
deansbimmer BimmerPost Supporting Vendor 3751 Rep 2,907 Posts Drives: 2011 E93 M3 Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: DFW, Texas iTrader: (17) Garage List 1988 BMW M3 [0.00] 2013 BMW M3 [0.00] 2011 X5M [0.00] 2011 BMW M3 [0.00]	You have a closed circuit current violation, which means a component is waking the car when it's off. Nothing should do that, so you should start there and identify which component is faulty- it could be the root problem to the remaining faults. You need to run the ISTA-D test plan for the fault before replacing anything. Otherwise you're just guessing and throwing parts at it.
	Appreciate 0 Quote