What brake fluid do you use?

[STi_traitor]

I am trying to get a general idea from others here on what they use for tracking. I personally have used RBF 600 for my cars and never stopped using it but I currently have SRF in my car.

For the guys that use ATE, do you use this just for easier fluid changing? Compared to RBF 600 there is a 58F difference on "dry" boiling point and 13F difference between "wet" boiling point. What are your opinions on this?

For the guys that use Castrol SRF, this stuff is expensive! RBF 600 has a 4F advatange on "dry" boiling point but the "wet" boiling point is a 117F difference in favor to SRF. I am not a fluid expert but this is huge and I am thinking that the "wet" boiling point is the one you should really worry about being that its most likely due to a build-up of moisture in the lines over time. Being that these fluids are water absorbing this seems to be the winner.

Please give feedback on your choice, thanks! I wouldn't mind sticking to the SRF but there is a huge price difference between the two and it really needs to be worth it. Does anyone here use a different fluid?

[1MOREMOD]

I've been using the ate super blue-gold now partially for ease of use and partially cuz its cheap. I'm thinking I will end up changing fluid often enough that wet boiling pt won't be as much of an issue. Also with the bbk now I figure I will put less heat into the caliper and lines and less likely to boil it. If I do have issues I will probably move to something else. Had srf in my e90 for a bit but didn't use it long enough to have a good feel if it was worth it.

[ms372]

Motul RBF 600 or 660! does the job for track and street use

[STi_traitor]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

I've been using the ate super blue-gold now partially for ease of use and partially cuz its cheap. I'm thinking I will end up changing fluid often enough that wet boiling pt won't be as much of an issue. Also with the bbk now I figure I will put less heat into the caliper and lines and less likely to boil it. If I do have issues I will probably move to something else. Had srf in my e90 for a bit but didn't use it long enough to have a good feel if it was worth it.

I just read that in racing applications dry boiling point is more important due to it being changed often. Being that I use my car in a "racing" application but change it at normal intervals I am going to be needing to worry about wet boiling points? Your E46 M is only used for the track? How often do you change your fluid? I was changing my fluid out once a year usually before each Nurburgring season.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by STi_traitor

I just read that in racing applications dry boiling point is more important due to it being changed often. Being that I use my car in a "racing" application but change it at normal intervals I am going to be needing to worry about wet boiling points? Your E46 M is only used for the track? How often do you change your fluid? I was changing my fluid out once a year usually before each Nurburgring season.

I will probably flush every 6 months or so. It was built as a track car but is still street legal. I hardly use it otherwise, once in a while get an itch to rip it around a little. I bleed fairly often now also. Don't have a set schedule do it more by feel.

[STi_traitor]

Originally Posted by ms372

Motul RBF 600 or 660! does the job for track and street use

A 17F "dry" boiling point difference for double the price, do you think that its worth it? I don't see why they would even make the two if there is such a small difference.

I do agree with you on the RBF 600 and haven't had issues for daily and track driving. I will most likely keep with it unless someone can really sell me on the SRF being worth it. From what I am seeing nobody has picked SRF on the poll yet.

[STi_traitor]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

I will probably flush every 6 months or so. It was built as a track car but is still street legal. I hardly use it otherwise, once in a while get an itch to rip it around a little. I bleed fairly often now also. Don't have a set schedule do it more by feel.

Sounds good!

[1MOREMOD]

Srf is the go to fluid for serious drivers as it requires less bleeding due to the high wet boiling pt. Just put it in and forget it. That's not what I do with my car so don't feel I need it. I get bored on the weekend and fix stuff that doesn't need fixiing yet!

[MasterP]

RBF 600. IT's not expensive @ $14-$17 Per 600ml bottle so changing it more fequently isn't overlly expensive. Plus it's readily available on the shelves at cycle gear, etc.

[///M Ryder]

Originally Posted by ms372

Motul RBF 600 or 660! does the job for track and street use

Originally Posted by TrakBch

RBF 600. IT's not expensive @ $14-$17 Per 600ml bottle so changing it more fequently isn't overlly expensive. Plus it's readily available on the shelves at cycle gear, etc.

Same camp as these guys..........Phil

[M3 Esq]

I'm using ATE. When it gives me a reason to upgrade to Motul or SRF I will.

[jacobe92]

For me who lives in sunny California were I don't have to deal w/ two sets of extreme weather "extreme cold and extreme hot" Motul 600 or 660 works best for me.

[tropicatango]

i use gulf 1000. very good oil for track and lapping, never boiled this oil. on the other side, this oil need to be changed once or twice a year minimum and cost around 20$ per 500 ml

[M3SQRD]

I use Performance Friction 665 and PROSPEED RS683.

Both are great for the track (BimmerWorld uses RS683 in their racecars) as well as the street. I'm using PFC's brake kit with 01 pad compound and have experienced zero fade nor any change in pedal firmness while on the track. Hygroscopic properties are good enough so that you can run the fluid for an entire season. Pricing is very good - $28-35/0.5L

[1MOREMOD]

i will have to try various ones in the future. good thread and info.

[Drifty//]

AP Racing PRF 660. Designed for NASCAR. It has a higher dry boiling point than Castrol SRF (325 C vs. 310 C), better recovery, and it's cheaper ($60 per liter vs. $80). For me, it's overkill. But when it comes to brakes, it's much better to have excess capacity than insufficient capacity in the system.

IMO, about the only reason I can see for going with SRF is if you skip bleeding your brakes between events. Which is probably not a great idea, no matter what fluid you have. I guess people also go longer between flushes with SRF. Again, not sure if that's a good idea. I don't do enough events for it to matter, as you should do a minimum of 1 flush per season, regardless. So, I might end up doing a couple more flushes beyond what a SRF user may try to get by with.

[Endless619]

For day to day driving that 95% of us do, normal factory/DOT 4 brake fluid will suffice.

When I tracked my old NSX I ran Motul.

[Drifty//]

Originally Posted by Endless619

For day to day driving that 95% of us do, normal factory/DOT 4 brake fluid will suffice.

Sorry, I just assumed we were talking about tracked cars, here. As you say, fluid is pretty much a non-issue for street driving... unless you do a lot of canyon runs or something.

[Endless619]

Originally Posted by Drifty//

Sorry, I just assumed we were talking about tracked cars, here. As you say, fluid is pretty much a non-issue for street driving... unless you do a lot of canyon runs or something.

Yeah, I didn't see anything in reference to tracking, unless he updated his original post.

So factory/DOT 4 will suffice.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by Endless619

Yeah, I didn't see anything in reference to tracking, unless he updated his original post.

So factory/DOT 4 will suffice.

your right he didnt say it, but OP is talking in reference to running the ring so upgrade is probably prudent.

[sawzall]

We use SRF in both our track day cars and our race car. The main reason we like SRF over the other fluids is because you can basically do a flush once a year, and then bleed as needed, and never have to worry about the fluid boiling. It really is the best stuff out there.

Motul RBF is a fantastic fluid, and generally you can't go wrong with it. If you do boil it (which can be tough to do), it's cheap enough to flush. We used to run Motul, and found that we would end up flushing the fluid 2-3 times a track season, and we would bleed pretty much at the end of every day.

[STi_traitor]

Originally Posted by Endless619

Yeah, I didn't see anything in reference to tracking, unless he updated his original post.

So factory/DOT 4 will suffice.

My bad, I figured talking boiling points and what not would have made that clear. I will make a update.

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

your right he didnt say it, but OP is talking in reference to running the ring so upgrade is probably prudent.

Not just the Ring. I am curious what others use for state side tracks as well. I am going to return to the states at some point.

Plus this is great to get a idea of what everyone uses and to maybe try out new fluids like you stated earlier.