MT Refresh what's all needed ?

[M_Torx]

Clutch release bearing getting worse pretty sure that's what it is am at 109000km lots of noise when clutch is engaged in neutral going to refresh everything while it is apart anything am missing or that is not needed definitely want to do upgraded clutch...

Clutch Slave Cylinder
Rear Crank Seal
Shifter rebuild and upgrade kit
Trans Bushings 80a
Clutch Masters stage 3+ FX 350
BMS Billet clutch valve
Release Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Air Injection Control Valves
Output Shaft Seal
Driveshaft Seal
Trans Fluid

Thanks In advance

[amrazM]

Im not sure if you should mess around with the rear crank seal, if you dont have the tool to put the seal back in you will be in for a world of headaches when you gotta pull the trans back out. The snout of the crankshaft stick out past the end of the block and there really isnt anywhere to attach a homemade tool back there. the seal sits recessed into the bore.

If it isnt a track car take those 80a trans mounts off your list, the transmission will vibrate the entire car loose around 4K RPM.

[Jerrycy]

I did RMS myself it was okay... Having the right tools really helps but is not a must, you just need to be really careful when tapping it in, a lot of patience is needed.

Also, it is a track car or not?
If not, go with the stock clutch and flywheel, and OEM trans mount. Because the noise these stuffs will make will drive you crazy if you just cruising around town.

Also, you don't need a BMS Billet clutch valve, M3 does not have a clutch delay valve.
And if you changing the output shaft seal and driveshaft seal, you might as well change the driveshaft center bearing and flex disc (guibo) while you are at it.

[tbuck]

Originally Posted by Jerrycy

I did RMS myself it was okay... Having the right tools really helps but is not a must, you just need to be really careful when tapping it in, a lot of patience is needed.

This should fall into the category of "just because you can do a thing does not mean you should do a thing". If this is not leaking don't touch it, period.

"Tapping" them in as mentioned, while possible, is just asking for a repeat in fairly short order. RMS are fairly delicate and it takes very little to damage the sealing surface. On top of that, not using an install tool can very easily distort the seal causing uneven wear and premature failure.

OP, I would leave it alone if it is not leaking. And unless you are putting down 6-700 HP you would not need or ever use a stage 3 clutch. Hell, this engine barely stresses a stage 1 clutch, LOL! Save your money!

[Jerrycy]

Originally Posted by tbuck

This should fall into the category of "just because you can do a thing does not mean you should do a thing". If this is not leaking don't touch it, period.

Mine is leaking so I have to change it. Like I said before, with the right tools it will be much better, and I think $150 for RMS tools is totally worth it. I just don't have the tool at the time and I am in a pinch so I have to do it the hard way.

I do not agree to leave it out when doing the clutch, I learned this the hard way. When my car is at 100k I changed the clutch without doing the RMS, and at 120k RMS started to leak. Wasn't leaking a lot but was leaking enough to sling oil onto my clutch causing it to slip and fail. So I have to redo the clutch again with RMS.

Maybe I am just unlucky that my RMS failed, maybe yours will last a very long time, IDK. But I don't want to take the chance again in the future. Just spend the $150 to get the tools and do it properly.

Just a tip, when buying RMS, buy the one with a plastic install guide, it makes your installation way easier and only costs a few bucks more.

[M_Torx]

thanks a lot for all the feedback and when the car comes out it gets beat on hard basically every time a lot of clutch kicks and banging first to second and will probably be doing VF620 on this car wouldn't mind a bit of extra noise from the tranny or clutch as the car is not a daily it's either track or street drift but if stock trans mounts hold up fine with more power will go with stock...

[M_Torx]

Originally Posted by Jerrycy

I did RMS myself it was okay... Having the right tools really helps but is not a must, you just need to be really careful when tapping it in, a lot of patience is needed.

Also, it is a track car or not?
If not, go with the stock clutch and flywheel, and OEM trans mount. Because the noise these stuffs will make will drive you crazy if you just cruising around town.

Also, you don't need a BMS Billet clutch valve, M3 does not have a clutch delay valve.
And if you changing the output shaft seal and driveshaft seal, you might as well change the driveshaft center bearing and flex disc (guibo) while you are at it.

Thanks

[M_Torx]

Originally Posted by Jerrycy

Mine is leaking so I have to change it. Like I said before, with the right tools it will be much better, and I think $150 for RMS tools is totally worth it. I just don't have the tool at the time and I am in a pinch so I have to do it the hard way.

I do not agree to leave it out when doing the clutch, I learned this the hard way. When my car is at 100k I changed the clutch without doing the RMS, and at 120k RMS started to leak. Wasn't leaking a lot but was leaking enough to sling oil onto my clutch causing it to slip and fail. So I have to redo the clutch again with RMS.

Maybe I am just unlucky that my RMS failed, maybe yours will last a very long time, IDK. But I don't want to take the chance again in the future. Just spend the $150 to get the tools and do it properly.

Just a tip, when buying RMS, buy the one with a plastic install guide, it makes your installation way easier and only costs a few bucks more.

yea think will just get RMS done while it's all apart that would be annoying af