Official S65 Bearing Specification/Clearance Wiki

[4corners]

See this post. BE and ARP bolt and bearing sets.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...2&postcount=33

[Doc Oc]

Originally Posted by LangRacingDevelopment

If it's looser at the top and bottom it will be proportionally looser at the parting line yes.

Perhaps I'm looking at it wrong, I'm no engine builder, but I'm not following the physics of it. A round bore is a perfect circle right? How can changing the shape of that circle cause an increase in clearance all around? If you squeeze it at the top the sides bulge and visa versa. An increase in clearance all around is essentially increasing the inner diameter of the circle (shell set), but how does forcing the bore out of round accomplish that?

[07E60M5]

Wow! Lot's of information on this thread.

Hello ladies and gents, I just joined as I purchased an 07 E60 M5 to start my ventures. Currently I will be tackling a vanos oil pressure code 27B6 to be exact. The car has 109K miles, any recommendations while i'm in there? Reading about the rod bearing side clearance issue has me a bit worried, should I just tear the engine down and proceed with a complete rebuild?

Thanks in advance to all, I'm glad i'm able to find all this information!

[JankGiovanella]

Hey E60M5,

I recently bought my E92 M3 and almost lost my engine due to rod bearings, had to replace the bearings with 30k miles on the clock. From what I hear the problem is not so bad on the S85, but I would advice replacing it with 109k miles for sure.

Congrats on the M5, awesome car.

[NickS65]

Originally Posted by JankGiovanella

Hey E60M5,

I recently bought my E92 M3 and almost lost my engine due to rod bearings, had to replace the bearings with 30k miles on the clock. From what I hear the problem is not so bad on the S85, but I would advice replacing it with 109k miles for sure.

Congrats on the M5, awesome car.

This is a good advice.

Congratulations with your S85 monster!

[07E60M5]

Thanks guys,

Looking forward to taking the S85 for a spin. My thoughts exactly with the mileage of the vehicle, shame for the issues on the these engines, they are amazing when working correctly haha.

[dry87]

any suggestion what mile should i change rod bearing? what bearing should i used BB bearings, OEM bearing?
thx

[LangRacingDevelopment]

Originally Posted by Doc Oc

Perhaps I'm looking at it wrong, I'm no engine builder, but I'm not following the physics of it. A round bore is a perfect circle right? How can changing the shape of that circle cause an increase in clearance all around? If you squeeze it at the top the sides bulge and visa versa. An increase in clearance all around is essentially increasing the inner diameter of the circle (shell set), but how does forcing the bore out of round accomplish that?

You have it right. If the bore gets egg shaped the clearance increases where people are measuring, but decreases at the parting line. Bearings have eccentricity and have more clearance at the parting line compared to 90 degrees from the parting line.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by 4corners

See this post. BE and ARP bolt and bearing sets.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...2&postcount=33

So it looks like the ARP-2000 bolts are a more acceptable substitute for the OE bolts with a neglible increase in bore distortion?

After going through this on my S54 with OE bolts, I think the ARPs, if the above is true, would be better since it's more likely you'll correctly execute a single 55 ft/lb torque procedure.

[L4ces]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

So it looks like the ARP-2000 bolts are a more acceptable substitute for the OE bolts with a neglible increase in bore distortion?

After going through this on my S54 with OE bolts, I think the ARPs, if the above is true, would be better since it's more likely you'll correctly execute a single 55 ft/lb torque procedure.

Note: they listed two types of custom ARP bolts, VAC and BE and torque specs differ for each.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by L4ces

Note: they listed two types of custom ARP bolts, VAC and BE and torque specs differ for each.

I was taking about the BE bolts. I'd never buy those from VAC.

[Titan_br]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

I was taking about the BE bolts. I'd never buy those from VAC.

BE are better?

Any thoughts about using with Arrow Connecting Rods?

[Green-Eggs]

Originally Posted by Titan_br

BE are better?

Any thoughts about using with Arrow Connecting Rods?

BE-ARP and VAC-ARP bolts have been tested for bore distortion. BE Bolts, when torqued correctly produce less bore distortion than VAC-ARP bolts when torqued correctly.

Measurements, results, and graphs for both are found here at the BE-Bearings wiki:
http://wiki.rcollins.org/core/index..../S85_Rod_Bolts

[dry87]

Originally Posted by JankGiovanella

Hey E60M5,

I recently bought my E92 M3 and almost lost my engine due to rod bearings, had to replace the bearings with 30k miles on the clock. From what I hear the problem is not so bad on the S85, but I would advice replacing it with 109k miles for sure.

Congrats on the M5, awesome car.

Are you changing rod bearing such low miles 30k only?
How do u know that ud have rod bearing problem within 30k mile only?

[Green-Eggs]

Originally Posted by dry87

Are you changing rod bearing such low miles 30k only?
How do u know that ud have rod bearing problem within 30k mile only?

Factory engines have blown with rod bearing failure in as little 1500, 4000, and 6000 miles.

[Green-Eggs]

Kudo's to RG, kawasaki00, BMRLVR, and all the others who brought this issue to the fore. Now recognized and discussed by Road and Track Magazine!

Fast-Forward to 21:30 in the video.

See more info:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1284487

[CHE///MIST3]

Green-Eggs: Do you know what the designed or (average) clearance is that switching to BE bearings would provide in rods bearing/crank space? ...how much better is the overall clearance over factory ?

Thanks in advance

GM

Originally Posted by Green-Eggs

BE-ARP and VAC-ARP bolts have been tested for bore distortion. BE Bolts, when torqued correctly produce less bore distortion than VAC-ARP bolts when torqued correctly.

Measurements, results, and graphs for both are found here at the BE-Bearings wiki:
http://wiki.rcollins.org/core/index..../S85_Rod_Bolts

[Green-Eggs]

Originally Posted by GMCHEM83

Green-Eggs: Do you know what the designed or (average) clearance is that switching to BE bearings would provide in rods bearing/crank space? ...how much better is the overall clearance over factory ?

Thanks in advance

GM

Nominal factory clearance is 0.00145 inch. Nominal BE Bearing clearance is 0.00240 inch.

Here's a wiki page with all the measurements for each bearing brand.
http://wiki-diy.com/index.php/Engine...5_Rod_Bearings

[tdott]

I was curious, Are BE-ARP and VAC-ARP bolts the same just different torque specs?

They are bolt listed as ARP2000 composition.

[07E60M5]

After tearing down the bottom end of my S85 to fix the VANOS - Oil Pressure code (27B6) I was surprised with two spun rod bearings, so now comes fixing the issue. The BE rod bearings seems to be the way to go to correct the rod bearing clearance issue from factory, but now what about the rod side clearance? How can I get in contact with someone such as Van Dyne to fix this issue for me?

[Green-Eggs]

Originally Posted by 07E60M5

After tearing down the bottom end of my S85 to fix the VANOS - Oil Pressure code (27B6) I was surprised with two spun rod bearings, so now comes fixing the issue. The BE rod bearings seems to be the way to go to correct the rod bearing clearance issue from factory, but now what about the rod side clearance? How can I get in contact with someone such as Van Dyne to fix this issue for me?

Our shop works with Van Dyne, so we might be able to help you. PM me for details.

I'm pretty sure the factory rods can be adjusted the same way Van Dyne did on the Carrillo rods. The rods will need to be out of the engine of course. If your engine is still assembled you can measure the side clearance by using a feeler gauge and measuring the gap between the two adjacent connecting rods; make sure to try and spread them apart with a spreader or screwdriver. Send those measurements and the connecting rods to Van Dyne for adjustments.

If the rods are outside the engine, then so is your crank. You can ship crank and rods to Van Dyne, and they can take the measurements, make the adjustments, and send it back.

If the shops in your area have high precision grinding equipment with magnetic base, then they could do this for you as well.

PM me for details

[jomamma]

Originally Posted by SenorFunkyPants

Seriously dude stop obsessing about me it is getting embarrassing.
Why not go for a spin in your M3 and chill...oh wait you can't, you still haven't managed to put it all back together again yet,
oh well another 4 years should see it done.
Maybe go and measure some stuff, that normally calms you down.

wow--I'm amazed you're not banned.