Major oil leak after rod bearing service

[tailgate1234]

I’ve driven my car for about 350 miles since my rod bearing service and gone through 1 liter of oil already. Dealer who just just replaced my airbag under the recall said I had a valve cover and upper timing chain cover seal leak.

I’m not very mechanically inclined - could these leaks have something to do with the rod bearing service or are this likely a huge coincidence?

Thank you!

[roastbeef]

There is a difference between a leak and consumption. Is there oil on the ground, or does your engine burn more oil than before?
Either way, a rod bearing job won't cause consumption.

[DSilk]

None of the parts contacting these gaskets should need to come off for rod bearing replacement (they can be accessed by removing the oil pan), so it is likely to be a coincidence.

[XKxRome0ox]

how many miles are on the car?
it could just be time to replace the gaskets and such

[tailgate1234]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

There is a difference between a leak and consumption. Is there oil on the ground, or does your engine burn more oil than before?
Either way, a rod bearing job won't cause consumption.

The dealer says the valve cover gasket and upper timing chain cover are both leaking. No evidence of oil on the ground though. I’ve typically burned a liter of oil every 5k miles, plus or minus. I’m mostly trying to figure out if there is something about a rod bearing service that could result in a valve cover or timing chain cover issue, or whether this is a cruel coincidence.

[msan]

Well I'd suggest a second opinion that is not a dealer. I took my car in for an oil change once and when it was time to pick up the car they said my rear diff was leaking and it would be $3700 to replace the sealing rings. I took it home instead and looked underneath and there was a tiny bit of weeping which I wiped with a paper towel, no leaks then and no leaks since ~5k miles. So you should understand the dealer service advisors are basically car salesmen in that they are paid on commission. Not saying you don't have to worry about it, but saying you should check with someone not incentivized to get work done to feed their family.

Finally, having to add oil between oil changes is normal from my own experience and what I've read.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by tailgate1234

The dealer says the valve cover gasket and upper timing chain cover are both leaking. No evidence of oil on the ground though. I’ve typically burned a liter of oil every 5k miles, plus or minus. I’m mostly trying to figure out if there is something about a rod bearing service that could result in a valve cover or timing chain cover issue, or whether this is a cruel coincidence.

I think they are trying to pinch you for a couple grand. There is no way 1L of oil or even close to that amount is coming out of the valve covers... there would be burnt oil smoke coming out of the hood. Pop the hood and just look around. There may be some residue, but not to the emergent extent that they are saying.

After a bearing job, a lot of oil is removed from the engine- more than your standard oil change. It just has a lot of time to drip out of there. If they filled it conservatively, it might have just burned a little bit and needs a top-off.

[MMachines]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

After a bearing job, a lot of oil is removed from the engine- more than your standard oil change. It just has a lot of time to drip out of there. If they filled it conservatively, it might have just burned a little bit and needs a top-off.

I'd top it off and monitor as long as there aren't puddles or drips.

[tailgate1234]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

I think they are trying to pinch you for a couple grand. There is no way 1L of oil or even close to that amount is coming out of the valve covers... there would be burnt oil smoke coming out of the hood. Pop the hood and just look around. There may be some residue, but not to the emergent extent that they are saying.

After a bearing job, a lot of oil is removed from the engine- more than your standard oil change. It just has a lot of time to drip out of there. If they filled it conservatively, it might have just burned a little bit and needs a top-off.

Thank you. This explanation of the large oil loss makes sense and while I don’t doubt there is a valve cover gasket leak I can’t see how that much oil could be leaking without a lot of oil all over the place. The dealer wanted $1300 for the valve cover gasket and **$7,100** !!! for resealing the timing chain cover.

[msan]

Originally Posted by tailgate1234

Thank you. This explanation of the large oil loss makes sense and while I don’t doubt there is a valve cover gasket leak I can’t see how that much oil could be leaking without a lot of oil all over the place. The dealer wanted $1300 for the valve cover gasket and **$7,100** !!! for resealing the timing chain cover.

That buys a lot of Big Macs for the service advisor's family

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by tailgate1234

Thank you. This explanation of the large oil loss makes sense and while I don’t doubt there is a valve cover gasket leak I can’t see how that much oil could be leaking without a lot of oil all over the place. The dealer wanted $1300 for the valve cover gasket and **$7,100** !!! for resealing the timing chain cover.

Yore welcome. I'm glad I saved you $7k. My consulting service only cost $1k. PayPal accepted.

Keep an eye on it. Find a reputable independent shop. Even an expensive Indy shop that does high end work isn't going to try to do you raw like a dealer.

[pbonsalb]

I agree - find an honest independent shop.

Rod bearing work unrelated to valve cover gasket or timing chain cover, if you actually do have leaks there.

[AggieZig]

Worth asking - how did you realize you lost 1L? Are you sure that the shop put in 8.8L (or close) to begin with? The oil measuring sensor in these cars isn't the most accurate device. When I had my rb's done, the shop was shy about .5-.75L from full capacity. Sometimes, it can take a few days for the sensor to accurately tell you where your at after an oil change. I watch mine each day for a week to make sure it's at the same level after an oil change before agreeing with the car.

As others have stated, the two items the dealer pointed out are unrelated. If you were losing oil from the pan below the engine, then it would make a lot more sense. I'd find a good indy for a second opinion.

[anerbe]

Keep monitoring, and do an oil analysis in 3-4K. Could be the oil level sensor eventually catching up so soon after the bearing service. You shouldn't be losing that much thru the covers. I highly doubt there's an issue with the bearing install, but for piece of mind, you can always pull and check the filter for any particles or flakes.

[deansbimmer]

There is so much wrong here...

Rod bearings don't contribute to oil consumption. Changing them won't affect oil usage unless the oil pan gasket didn't get installed correctly, (which is hard to do wrong) but you'd see an oil slick under the car.

There are no "timing covers" on the S65 like there are on many of BMW's other engines. There are two small VANOS cover plates that can be replaced in 30 minutes and $30 in parts. $7100 is just plain fraud for servicing imaginary parts.

Valve covers do leak, and they can leak quite badly in some cases. $1300 is a high estimate to replace both valve cover gaskets, but again is borderline theft for a single side.

I don't know if they're giving you bad advice out of ignorance or what but either way I would advise you don't take them any more business.

[trustbran]

I'd have to agree with Deansbimmer, I'd be very cautious returning back to that dealer for future services.... Check out the DIY section we have here too, there is tons of useful info there that might assist you with just even checking yourself for any of these claimed issues. Glad you asked here first, some dealers (most) are unfortunately shady

-Brandon

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by AggieZig

Worth asking - how did you realize you lost 1L? Are you sure that the shop put in 8.8L (or close) to begin with? The oil measuring sensor in these cars isn't the most accurate device. When I had my rb's done, the shop was shy about .5-.75L from full capacity. Sometimes, it can take a few days for the sensor to accurately tell you where your at after an oil change. I watch mine each day for a week to make sure it's at the same level after an oil change before agreeing with the car.

As others have stated, the two items the dealer pointed out are unrelated. If you were losing oil from the pan below the engine, then it would make a lot more sense. I'd find a good indy for a second opinion.

You have to remember that 8.8L doesnt account for the oil in the oil cooler. If you let the car drain for an extended period of time, oil will slowly drain out of the cooler and you will have to put more than 8.8L in.

[MMachines]

Originally Posted by drwankel

You have to remember that 8.8L doesnt account for the oil in the oil cooler. If you let the car drain for an extended period of time, oil will slowly drain out of the cooler and you will have to put more than 8.8L in.

Mine took about 10L to get to MAX

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by MMachines

Mine took about 10L to get to MAX

....ouch. Sounds like a lot mate.

[330ciprem]

Originally Posted by MMachines

Mine took about 10L to get to MAX

Did you put oil in the correct hole? There is one in the back, towards the right of the car too - don't use that one.

[MMachines]

I had a bunch of partials around from top ups that I used and figured I put in about 8.8, then after a drive I polished off another jug and got into another 1L bottle to add the 1L it asked for, it's not like it was a medical procedure but it took lots, and it took a lot more than normal. Also it was taken apart for a while so it kept coming out for DAYS once oil pan was removed. Also you'd be amazed how much was in the pan that doesn't come out from a normal draining. Point being, put some in and see what happens over time.