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      02-05-2018, 03:24 PM   #1
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Gentlemen,

First of all, thanks to everyone here for all their contributions. Love the discussions and insights. It is certainly one of the more active track-based forums that I have seen and I have studied many of the threads here. Also lucky that I have access to a few of you guys at our SoCal track days to ask questions. As I write this I'm debating between Chuckwalla or ACS this weekend with my other track car....hope to see some of you.

The goal will be to acquire a stock low mileage example, and only mod where needed, providing the best bang for the buck possible.

Besides doing an inspection to replace worn items, I'm thinking about initial mods. What would you guys recommend? Thinking about my previous e92 - I have an idea about a couple things to get it going. I will not be doing the same build as last time. In fact it will be completely opposite. I'm initially looking to do: whees+tires, brake pads fluid and SS lines, coils and unitized sub-frame. Some minor software coding as well.

Some initial questions on brakes, tires and coils (thanks in advance for responding):

For stock brakes, which pad and fluid do you prefer? I like initial high torque bite and also tend to threshold brake. Not sure this style will work with the stock brakes for long sessions so BBK might be in the future. Also any recommendation for fluid and SS lines?

Wheels will likely be Apex ARC-8's. Not sure of the widths yet as I guess that depends on fitment with the coils I choose. I would like to start with a reasonably priced tire that can see driving to-and-from the track. Street/track tires that I have used previously that I liked are MPSC2's, RE71R's, NT05's, R888's.

Coils and spring rate: Seems like lots to choose from. I would like a multi-adjustable option. And something that comes with camber plates is a plus. I've heard really good things about Bilstein. Of course KW is the popular choice and I've used Ohlins on another track car. Can go wild here but would like to keep the budget in mind. I'm getting old so it has to be relatively comfortable haha. But hey this won't be a daily driver.

I think that's all at the moment. Anyway I'm starting to look at cars this week and hopefully with some luck will have something soon.

Cheers.
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      02-05-2018, 04:01 PM   #2
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A. I have two sets of PFC01 brand new in box if you're going stock brakes and like initial bite. Also have titanium shims that I'll throw in if you're really willing to go oem brakes with ss lines. Heck I'll throw in solid guide pins and ss lines for the front of you're set on trying the oem setup. Castrol SRF or similar, t700, endless for fluid. You'll prob end up getting bbk though.

For you I would recommend just getting a bbk and jrz rs pro and seats and half cage and it's a pretty good car with just that.

Brakes see above
Suspension JRZ RS Pro / MCS 2-way - a bit more coin but dampening is superior, thus makes it more supple, suits the age comment lol
Wheels - get the newer Apex wheels, they are stronger. I bent my Arc8 on the first day but never had an off, just some hard jumping berms. SM10 or FL5, I think I'm going to swap for one of these wheels.
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      02-05-2018, 04:11 PM   #3
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Would recommend SRF Brake Fluid. Many on here would agree. Slightly pricier but less frequent changes.

I'll be at ACS on Sat, perhaps I will see you around!
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      02-05-2018, 04:33 PM   #4
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I'd like to see you try stock brakes with fresh track pads, SRF fluid, and see if people really need a bbk or ducts, etc. Would love to see your thoughts after trying it out.
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      02-05-2018, 04:54 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by msan View Post
I'd like to see you try stock brakes with fresh track pads, SRF fluid, and see if people really need a bbk or ducts, etc. Would love to see your thoughts after trying it out.
i've been on oem brakes for a few years now. Everyone has gone to bbk and it seems like I'm the last one left lolol....
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      02-05-2018, 04:56 PM   #6
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Question that may help, how many track days per year are you targeting and how much street time? For example I track ~8-10 days/year and drive my car on the street maybe 4-6 days/month. I also to/from track events. I was originally trying to DD my car and I took it too far such that it wasn't comfortable enough as a DD anymore. Now that I have another DD I've gone even further on the more track-focused mods. I have a much better understanding of what is street-able and what's not having tried to balance it for awhile.

Here are my recommendations for a weekend warrior with a track focus, which is what I suspect you are after.

Brakes - There are two approaches that I like. If you really want to save money here, I would go for PFC DD v3 front rotors that work with the stock calipers. The main advantage is from the cooling that these high-vane-count rotors offer. Pair them with Castrol SRF fluid and track pads. You must use track pads and swap pads before/after events, it's the only answer, no hybrids. FWIW, Castrol SRF is the only fluid I use after having many experiences boiling other brands. For pads I love Pagid yellows, RS-29 fronts and RS-19 rears, they are great for the tires that you mention. Many folks also like Cobalt Friction, I haven't tried them yet but hear good things. Starting out like this will let you decide how deep into this you want to go and if you want to spend on something like the AP Racing kit that Essex offers at a later date. Phenomenal kit but maybe not where most folks would start out.

Suspension - If you want to lean track-focused I would go for Bilstein Clubsports - LINK. If you want softer springs and more of an in-between I would go for Bilstein PSS10, K&W, or Ohlins R&T. You can't really go wrong with any of these setups. I have MCS 2WNR's with 600/900 spring rates and while I love this setup at the track I consider it a bit much for the street. Track focused suspensions are noisier as well, just keep that in mind. The Bilstein Clubsports are probably the most extreme option that I've heard people say is still quiet on the street, I haven't tried them myself. Then this kit also comes with camber plates, if you get another setup that doesn't have them I would grab some Vorshlag camber plates. I run these and enjoy them.

Wheels - 18x10 et25 square Apex wheels are a great option - nt-01, re-71r, cup2 or similar tires are all great, square allows you to rotate and maximize tire life

For bushings and other items like that, a stock M3 is pretty good out of the box. I've started to replace some of these items, small gains per component to be had here. Your money is probably best spent on maximizing tires, brakes, suspension, and alignment, getting some track days in, and then addressing any areas of concern. For example, you might decide you want to move on to a larger BBK setup before addressing bushings and other items. Just my thoughts, everyone does it a little different.

I've enjoyed reading your posts in the past and am looking forward to hearing more this go round. Good luck with the car search and feel free to reach out with any questions!
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      02-05-2018, 05:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msan View Post
I'd like to see you try stock brakes with fresh track pads, SRF fluid, and see if people really need a bbk or ducts, etc. Would love to see your thoughts after trying it out.
edit: reposted for some reason.
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      02-05-2018, 08:29 PM   #8
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If you really want to go for the minimal viable track mods then you just need track pads, high temp fluid (SRF is great), some decent 200TW tires like the Hankook RS4 on the stock wheels and camber plates so you don't destroy your front wheels. Start there, see how it goes and take it from there.
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      02-05-2018, 08:37 PM   #9
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Or just rebuild same as the old car. Supercharge again lol
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      02-05-2018, 08:51 PM   #10
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i know its a "budget" build, but brakes are the worst part of the car. especially with anything more than street tires. everything else can come with time if you don't want to drop a bunch of coin right off the bat. i feel like they are essential, and other things can wait. that has pretty much been how i've been building all along. i might be one of the only track bro's on oem suspension for that reason....
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      02-05-2018, 09:29 PM   #11
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Not in order but here is my suggestions. Now I am of the mindset why spend the money on something twice....and i have done that. If I had know what I know now here is what I would do:
1) Brakes (I consider this a safety item as well as performance): if you go ahead and go BBK your consumables will be less while initial expense is larger. On a OEM system and going fast you dont want to lose brakes from fade or exceeding the limits of them. you will go through rotors and pads alot more than with BBK. So it might pay for itself in consumable savings. I would go Front BBK. You can go Stoptech or AP Radi-Cal both good choices (AP would be my preferred). Pads are personal choice. Fluid I would go SRF.
2) Suspension: Well I had KW Clubsports and just couldnt stand that I couldnt get the support I needed. Motion Control has been great. I would stay with 2 ways Non remote. This will allow you to dial in the setting for street and track super easy from the top of the shock. MCS will get you right on spring rates. Just tell them and they will suggest
3) Seats and Harnesses: It will hold you in better make you be in touch with the car better. Half Cage here as well.....Safety.
4) Wheels: Bimmerworld Forged. Not much more than Apex for a forged wheel. Also they are on sale and free shipping right now....
5) Tires: NT01 great till they cord hard to beat for street tire.

Others things than this probably go out side the "budget" build.

just my thoughts
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      02-05-2018, 09:54 PM   #12
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4) Wheels: Bimmerworld Forged. Not much more than Apex for a forged wheel. Also they are on sale and free shipping right now....
wow, thats a pretty good deal. $1,900 shipped for a set of 18x10.5 forged wheels.
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      02-05-2018, 10:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Number 86 View Post
A. I have two sets of PFC01 brand new in box if you're going stock brakes and like initial bite. Also have titanium shims that I'll throw in if you're really willing to go oem brakes with ss lines. Heck I'll throw in solid guide pins and ss lines for the front of you're set on trying the oem setup. Castrol SRF or similar, t700, endless for fluid. You'll prob end up getting bbk though.

For you I would recommend just getting a bbk and jrz rs pro and seats and half cage and it's a pretty good car with just that.

Brakes see above
Suspension JRZ RS Pro / MCS 2-way - a bit more coin but dampening is superior, thus makes it more supple, suits the age comment lol
Wheels - get the newer Apex wheels, they are stronger. I bent my Arc8 on the first day but never had an off, just some hard jumping berms. SM10 or FL5, I think I'm going to swap for one of these wheels.
Definitely gonna pick your brain next time I see you P! I know you've been at it for a while with this car and want to understand what you have learned along the way and if you had to start all over again (with a stock car) how you would do it. Appreciate the offer on the brake parts...now I just need a car haha.

Quote:
Originally Posted by elim11 View Post
Would recommend SRF Brake Fluid. Many on here would agree. Slightly pricier but less frequent changes.

I'll be at ACS on Sat, perhaps I will see you around!
Ok awesome. I'm leaning toward ACS (closer) but some friends are going Sunday. Two votes for SRF...must be good stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by msan View Post
I'd like to see you try stock brakes with fresh track pads, SRF fluid, and see if people really need a bbk or ducts, etc. Would love to see your thoughts after trying it out.
Stock brakes are definitely the plan for now. Only issues is that I like to threshold brake and it does generate a lot of heat. Perhaps forcing myself to keep the stock brakes will make me better at brake management.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mobbin View Post
Question that may help, how many track days per year are you targeting and how much street time? For example I track ~8-10 days/year and drive my car on the street maybe 4-6 days/month. I also to/from track events. I was originally trying to DD my car and I took it too far such that it wasn't comfortable enough as a DD anymore. Now that I have another DD I've gone even further on the more track-focused mods. I have a much better understanding of what is street-able and what's not having tried to balance it for awhile.

Here are my recommendations for a weekend warrior with a track focus, which is what I suspect you are after.

Brakes - There are two approaches that I like. If you really want to save money here, I would go for PFC DD v3 front rotors that work with the stock calipers. The main advantage is from the cooling that these high-vane-count rotors offer. Pair them with Castrol SRF fluid and track pads. You must use track pads and swap pads before/after events, it's the only answer, no hybrids. FWIW, Castrol SRF is the only fluid I use after having many experiences boiling other brands. For pads I love Pagid yellows, RS-29 fronts and RS-19 rears, they are great for the tires that you mention. Many folks also like Cobalt Friction, I haven't tried them yet but hear good things. Starting out like this will let you decide how deep into this you want to go and if you want to spend on something like the AP Racing kit that Essex offers at a later date. Phenomenal kit but maybe not where most folks would start out.

Suspension - If you want to lean track-focused I would go for Bilstein Clubsports - LINK. If you want softer springs and more of an in-between I would go for Bilstein PSS10, K&W, or Ohlins R&T. You can't really go wrong with any of these setups. I have MCS 2WNR's with 600/900 spring rates and while I love this setup at the track I consider it a bit much for the street. Track focused suspensions are noisier as well, just keep that in mind. The Bilstein Clubsports are probably the most extreme option that I've heard people say is still quiet on the street, I haven't tried them myself. Then this kit also comes with camber plates, if you get another setup that doesn't have them I would grab some Vorshlag camber plates. I run these and enjoy them.

Wheels - 18x10 et25 square Apex wheels are a great option - nt-01, re-71r, cup2 or similar tires are all great, square allows you to rotate and maximize tire life

For bushings and other items like that, a stock M3 is pretty good out of the box. I've started to replace some of these items, small gains per component to be had here. Your money is probably best spent on maximizing tires, brakes, suspension, and alignment, getting some track days in, and then addressing any areas of concern. For example, you might decide you want to move on to a larger BBK setup before addressing bushings and other items. Just my thoughts, everyone does it a little different.

I've enjoyed reading your posts in the past and am looking forward to hearing more this go round. Good luck with the car search and feel free to reach out with any questions!
Thanks very helpful! Good question - probably similar to you 8-10 track days a year, as a secondary track car. There are some tracks I just won't go to with my current track car like Big Willow or any track that is a long drive. The M3 will not see any daily driving but it must drive relatively comfortably to and from the track...and I might do some long distance events like NorCal or even COTA. That said with no rear seat I could easily fit track wheels/tires and tools and misc stuff. Love this aspect of the car.

Thx for the input about bushings. Good point. Also new question regarding coils vs springs on the stock ZCP suspension (I plan on getting a ZCP car), can springs be an adequate alternative? The biggest issue I had was massive body roll of the stock suspension. If there is a properly matched spring with the stock ZCP suspension then perhaps I could try that with a camber plate. What do you think?

Quote:
Originally Posted by macdude357 View Post
If you really want to go for the minimal viable track mods then you just need track pads, high temp fluid (SRF is great), some decent 200TW tires like the Hankook RS4 on the stock wheels and camber plates so you don't destroy your front wheels. Start there, see how it goes and take it from there.
Thx I actually plan on doing do this exact thing for my first track day except I won't buy the camber plates since they might come with coils. So I would plan on maxing neg camber in the front (and rear).

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Number 86 View Post
Or just rebuild same as the old car. Supercharge again lol
Haha no chance! That thing was heavy and with stock suspension and with all that weight up front was understeer-biased and leaned like a boat in the turns. I plan to make this one lighter than stock by removing anything possible and much more nimble with suspension focus.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
i know its a "budget" build, but brakes are the worst part of the car. especially with anything more than street tires. everything else can come with time if you don't want to drop a bunch of coin right off the bat. i feel like they are essential, and other things can wait. that has pretty much been how i've been building all along. i might be one of the only track bro's on oem suspension for that reason....
So do you have springs at least? Body roll on stock suspension was pretty agonizing for me. Body roll isn't necessarily bad although in my experience didn't allow it to be sharp on the turn-in and wide sweepers were super painful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by warp10 View Post
Not in order but here is my suggestions. Now I am of the mindset why spend the money on something twice....and i have done that. If I had know what I know now here is what I would do:
1) Brakes (I consider this a safety item as well as performance): if you go ahead and go BBK your consumables will be less while initial expense is larger. On a OEM system and going fast you dont want to lose brakes from fade or exceeding the limits of them. you will go through rotors and pads alot more than with BBK. So it might pay for itself in consumable savings. I would go Front BBK. You can go Stoptech or AP Radi-Cal both good choices (AP would be my preferred). Pads are personal choice. Fluid I would go SRF.
2) Suspension: Well I had KW Clubsports and just couldnt stand that I couldnt get the support I needed. Motion Control has been great. I would stay with 2 ways Non remote. This will allow you to dial in the setting for street and track super easy from the top of the shock. MCS will get you right on spring rates. Just tell them and they will suggest
3) Seats and Harnesses: It will hold you in better make you be in touch with the car better. Half Cage here as well.....Safety.
4) Wheels: Bimmerworld Forged. Not much more than Apex for a forged wheel. Also they are on sale and free shipping right now....
5) Tires: NT01 great till they cord hard to beat for street tire.

Others things than this probably go out side the "budget" build.

just my thoughts
Great points. Agree with braking from a safety perspective. I will know asap if the stock brakes just aren't for me. But I really want to give them a chance. I've cooked brakes before and think I've learned some good lessons.

Hearing a lot of good things about MCS. I like 2-way option and sounds like they are custom ordered?
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      02-05-2018, 10:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
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So do you have springs at least? Body roll on stock suspension was pretty agonizing for me. Body roll isn't necessarily bad although in my experience didn't allow it to be sharp on the turn-in and wide sweepers were super painful.
no, all i have are camber plates. i want moton coils with the rear coil conversion and a 1/2 cage integrated into the rear mounting points. i can't justify writing a check that big at the moment... in a way, it has been beneficial- i'm treating it as an education.
if i want to put up a respectable time, i have to be smoother with my inputs. i'm forced to be smooth. i'm at the point now where i can understand the limitations of the edc suspension. i feel like i understand the benefits of coilovers and i know how to articulate or describe what i want out of suspension tuning when i finally get coilovers. kinda silly, but its fun.
i also can't wait to finally get coilovers and destroy all my previous pb's. lol
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      02-06-2018, 08:30 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
So do you have springs at least? Body roll on stock suspension was pretty agonizing for me. Body roll isn't necessarily bad although in my experience didn't allow it to be sharp on the turn-in and wide sweepers were super painful.
no, all i have are camber plates. i want moton coils with the rear coil conversion and a 1/2 cage integrated into the rear mounting points. i can't justify writing a check that big at the moment... in a way, it has been beneficial- i'm treating it as an education.
if i want to put up a respectable time, i have to be smoother with my inputs. i'm forced to be smooth. i'm at the point now where i can understand the limitations of the edc suspension. i feel like i understand the benefits of coilovers and i know how to articulate or describe what i want out of suspension tuning when i finally get coilovers. kinda silly, but its fun.
i also can't wait to finally get coilovers and destroy all my previous pb's. lol
That's pretty cool. I def want to start with the stock suspension to feel the car out again. For a daily driver the EDC suspension is amazing. Very soft and comfortable, particularly paired with the amazing stock seats.

I do remember a gentlemen at Auto Club Speedway (forget his name / screen name - are you here????) was doing low 1:50's in a white e92 and I think the car was bone stock except for tires, pads/fluid and springs which I recall him saying the springs made a huge difference - even allowing him to carry the roval at WOT (over 140mph) which is almost unbelievable. He was also a fairly newb driver too which made it that much more amazing.

That was part of the inspiration as to why I think this car can be really fun safe and competitive without spending huge sums of money. Part of why I'm doing this is that as I fade into retirement in a couple years I cannot afford to throw money away at this hobby. So I plan to be very disciplined like you in my approach - spending money only where necessary on things that will be beneficial in the long run while keeping a big grin around the circuits.
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      02-06-2018, 09:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
So do you have springs at least? Body roll on stock suspension was pretty agonizing for me. Body roll isn't necessarily bad although in my experience didn't allow it to be sharp on the turn-in and wide sweepers were super painful.
no, all i have are camber plates. i want moton coils with the rear coil conversion and a 1/2 cage integrated into the rear mounting points. i can't justify writing a check that big at the moment... in a way, it has been beneficial- i'm treating it as an education.
if i want to put up a respectable time, i have to be smoother with my inputs. i'm forced to be smooth. i'm at the point now where i can understand the limitations of the edc suspension. i feel like i understand the benefits of coilovers and i know how to articulate or describe what i want out of suspension tuning when i finally get coilovers. kinda silly, but its fun.
i also can't wait to finally get coilovers and destroy all my previous pb's. lol
That's pretty cool. I def want to start with the stock suspension to feel the car out again. For a daily driver the EDC suspension is amazing. Very soft and comfortable, particularly paired with the amazing stock seats.

I do remember a gentlemen at Auto Club Speedway (forget his name / screen name - are you here????) was doing low 1:50's in a white e92 and I think the car was bone stock except for tires, pads/fluid and springs which I recall him saying the springs made a huge difference - even allowing him to carry the roval at WOT (over 140mph) which is almost unbelievable. He was also a fairly newb driver too which made it that much more amazing.

That was part of the inspiration as to why I think this car can be really fun safe and competitive without spending huge sums of money. Part of why I'm doing this is that as I fade into retirement in a couple years I cannot afford to throw money away at this hobby. So I plan to be very disciplined like you in my approach - spending money only where necessary on things that will be beneficial in the long run while keeping a big grin around the circuits.
That's redpriest but he's a special kind of crazy
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      02-06-2018, 10:09 AM   #17
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Longboarder, I look forward to seeing you with another one of these cars!

I'm generally aligned with Mobbin

BRAKES
The PFC DD v3 rotors are very good. More than enough 'BBK' for most use.
As far as pads, I have fallen in love with the PFC 11 compound because it has almost zero street squeal, lasts a long time and is very easy to modulate. Although I have street pads on my BBK I no longer swap them out and just drive all year with the track pads.
Still, I would likely add a front BBK. BW sells the PFC Z54 front caliper I have in two cars for around 3k during their sales. Another option is the Essex kit referenced below


SUSPENSION
I would directly go for the BS Clubsport.
I have the MCS 3WR on one car and the MCS 2WNR on the other. They are quite livable with 700/1000 springs, but unless you're going bananas like me I'd go for the Bilsteins.
The JRZ's are rattle cans after driving them on the street. Bought a set freshly rebuilt by Olsen and after 5k miles I was willing to go back to stock for them to STFU. These are for sale if you want a full 2W kit for 3k.
If you don't want to drop the coin on the Bilsteins CS I'd stay stock with camber plates instead of getting the KW CS, Ohlins R&T, etc. Despite all the whining you read about here, stock suspension is still fast as hell.


WHEELS
You need a set of 18x10 or 18x10.5. I digress on the ARC8s though. If you can afford it, and you can, why don't you get a set of real forged wheels? The BW ones I have are excellent, light and strong. They're currently running a promo on them for a few more days.


BUSHINGS
I'd leave them alone for now, maybe switch out the front 'brake bushing' for the one BW or Dinan sells
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      02-06-2018, 10:26 AM   #18
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If you got access to Project Mu or Endless there, I can recommend:

1. Project Mu HC+
Semi-metallic pads. You will break your neck even with mildly semi slick tyres like R888R. They say it's street&track dual use, but it's more towards track than street. Will squeal like hell.

2. Endless CC-RG
One of the most consistent pads I've used. Withstood 2 hours of continuous full brake at 4th gear entry hairpins pulling high Gs. Still got more than 60% left after around 10,000km of usage. Does not brake fade with Brembo 4Ps. Works pretty well with stock rotors. Doesn't squeal too much, considering it's semi-metallic.

3.Endless MX-72
Right in the middle of street/track, but it will lock your street tyres pretty easily. Much, Much better control and braking than DS2500s I've recently tried (they were shit. Don't buy it.) Doesn't fade unless you really stamp on it in the middle of the summer. (I ran 2 hours of tight course circuit lap length of ~50sec and it didn't fade during the 40C summer of Suzuka.) CC-RG is better for threshold braking.

Japanese aftermarket brake pads are pretty hardcore, as they are standard pads in races like SuperGT or D1. When they say it's race spec it means you need slick tyres. Just my $0.02.
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      02-06-2018, 12:39 PM   #19
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If you are going for Apex wheels bear in mind that the EC-7 wheels clear all big brake kits whereas the Arc-8 wheels do not, I seem to remember.
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      02-06-2018, 03:26 PM   #20
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Budget? Budget? Yikes, I guess BIG is a budget too.

Stock m3 needs nothing more than pads and fresh non-horrible fluid to get on track and not explode in 20-30 minute sessions. I'm running some of the cheapest functional parts - powerstop track day pads (under $200 for all) and ATE fluid ($17ish/liter) and ps2/re71r/ps91 tires.

I'm not winning any races against prepped GT4s but for a comfy DD it's not half bad.
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      02-06-2018, 06:27 PM   #21
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Okay, my two cents, though lots of very good suggestions in this thread so far.

1) Suspension
a. Turner front suspension kit. You’d have all new components and mono-ball tension strut. Much better than bolt in, have about 10K miles on mine (https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...2-e9x/?pdk=AwE
b. Vorschlag camber plates specific for your suspension
c. I’d leave suspension stock for now, it’s not bad, if you go coil over as you know, a million choices. I only know JRZ and I’ve been through 4 rebuilds (all paid for by JRZ because of noise issues, it’s good now, I have the dual adjustable and like it a lot, but plenty of good choices out there).
d. Fall-Line rear camber shim kit. Super easy install, relatively easy adjustments and absolutely locks down the rear camber.


2) Brakes
a. I’ve run Performance Friction DD rotors for about 8 years, with stock calipers and just switched to Performance Friction Z-54 front kit last year. I suspect you have the ability so just get the Z-54 kit and be done with it. For the rear install bronze bushing kit in stock caliper and you’re done and the brakes are incredible. PF Z-11 pads are fantastic, I used to love Pagid RS-19 pads but the Z-11 just as good and a bit more cost effective.


3) Engine/drivetrain
a. Primary Cat bypass pipes
b. Good tune to maximize above – plenty of vendors but I’d choose a “conservative” tune
c. Forget the small pulleys, I think cooling should be maximized
d. CSF radiator- excellent quality and makes a big difference in temps
e. Upgraded oil cooler CSF or M-24
f. Get some decent motor mounts, BW N-type are excellent and super durable
g. I haven’t done it, but if it’s in the budget a better LSD would be good. I have 125K on mine and it’s worthless on track, more like an open diff.
h. BW power steering reservoir. I don't see the need for power steering cooler and I live in a really hot climate. BW reservoir takes care of all the "spitting" from a stock reservoir.


4) Tires
a. If you run high performance summer I’ve run and like both RE-71R (my current tire) and AD-08R both are good but there are slight differences between the two. I don’t know anything about R-comps as I’ve never run them but pretty much everyone tells me I should switch over.
b. Wheels- not an area where I generally cost save so anything forged is probably best. There are some very good cast wheels out there, but I’ve seen wheel failures and figure why chance it.

Last edited by VictorH; 02-06-2018 at 06:45 PM..
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      02-06-2018, 07:09 PM   #22
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So are we going to be seeing you at a Bimmer Challenge event sometime soon?
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