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      11-04-2016, 03:13 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demon Barber View Post
Hoping to revive an old thread and get a few more details regarding the procedure for changing the two DCT filters. What size torx screws hold the transmission pan in place, and what are the torque values? For the canister filter, what tool to use after you remove the snap ring to unscrew the round black plastic cap? Any known torque value for this?
Nobody know the torque spec for the oil pan

the one 28 00 4AZ find in the manual service

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      11-05-2016, 02:51 PM   #156
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I find 10n.m +\- 1

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      11-08-2016, 04:10 PM   #157
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I did this job over the weekend, replacing both filters and fluid. Easily one of the most frustrating and disgusting jobs I've ever done on a car. There was a lot that I had to figure out along the way since there's not a really clear-cut DIY, but if I had to do it all over it wouldn't be such a big deal knowing what I now know.

If you want to try it I'm happy to answer any questions.

EDIT: In this post I originally shared my concerns that I had not been able to get a complete fill, but my mechanic verified that the system was full. Part of my confusion was due to measuring the drained fluid in quarts and measuring the new fluid in liters.

Last edited by NoCarrier; 11-09-2016 at 02:08 PM.
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      11-08-2016, 05:02 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoCarrier View Post
I did this job over the weekend, replacing both filters and fluid. Easily one of the most frustrating and disgusting jobs I've ever done on a car. There was a lot that I had to figure out along the way since there's not a really clear-cut DIY, but if I had to do it all over it wouldn't be such a big deal knowing what I now know.

In the end, though, I'm not sure I'd recommend this as a DIY job because I simply wasn't able to add enough fluid. I drained about 5.25 quarts of fluid (plus whatever dripped all over my garage floor and into my hair and eyes while the pan was removed), and I wasn't able to add more than 4.5 quarts back in. I added over 3 quarts with the first fill, then did the 2000rpm for 1 minute trick and was able to add an additional quart plus. Did 2k for 1m another time and wasn't really able to add any more. Given that I'm hitting the track in two weeks, I'm not comfortable running around 3/4 qt low. So I'm taking it to my mechanic to hook it up to the computer, run the pump and top it off.

If you still want to try it I'm happy to answer any questions, but I'm disappointed with how this one turned out.
Did you used ISTA/D (Rheingold) software operation to add an additional fluid?
If not, you need to do it in anyway.

Last edited by ///Mario; 11-08-2016 at 05:15 PM.
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      11-09-2016, 02:09 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mario View Post
Did you used ISTA/D (Rheingold) software operation to add an additional fluid?
If not, you need to do it in anyway.
No, I used the DIY method described in the #1 post on this thread. My mechanic verified that it was a complete fill, so my fears are assuaged.
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      11-11-2016, 04:13 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoCarrier View Post
No, I used the DIY method described in the #1 post on this thread. My mechanic verified that it was a complete fill, so my fears are assuaged.
Ok, thanx!
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      01-20-2017, 03:47 PM   #161
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Anyone know if the Vaico suction filter is the same as BMW brand? Maybe BMW just rebranded the Vaico filter?

I'd rather not pay more if it's the same filter but I am willing to pay more for quality:

Vaico:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vaico-pa...FYGHfgodvqwGsA

BMW:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...FUuSfgodDV4ANQ
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      03-11-2017, 12:52 PM   #162
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I just completed the DCT fluid and pan change on my E92. Not a bad job.

As per most guides, added around 3L of fluid until it dripped out of the fill hole. Fit the fill plug but do not torque, run the engine for 1-2 mins at 2000rpm, monitoring oil temps on DIS, around the 37-38C mark, remove the fill plug and top up. All working great.

Total amount of fluid used was around 5.5L. Pentosin FFL-4
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      03-21-2017, 12:13 AM   #163
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Short DIY on changing the suction filter. Its pretty easy but messy. I got some pentosin in my ear!

This is what you see with the pan off. The white plastic piece is the sucking jet pump. Remove a single T40 bolt (its not on very tight...maybe finger tight) and then pull the jet pump down. It doesn't take a lot of force. Not much fluid will spill out at this point.



There are 2 T30 bolts holding the suction filter in. Again, not on very tight. Pull down just like you did on the jet pump. Should pop off. Fluid will spill out of the filter and drain from the tranny. I pulled out the gasket and cleaned up the pan, gasket channel and gasket.

I've drained close to 6 qts of fluid so far.

This is what you see with the suction filter off...



Onto the pressure filter. I would love to find a set of snap ring pliers that doesn't suck.
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      03-22-2017, 01:46 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
.....I would love to find a set of snap ring pliers that doesn't suck.
Go to Harbor Freight and get this for $3.99: http://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ri...ads-60531.html

Grind/Sharpen off the tip on the 45 degree attachment and it works like a charm.
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      04-29-2017, 01:04 AM   #165
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In the process of doing this right now. I drained roughly 5.5L (Also doing a filter swap so the pan came down), but I'm only able to get 4.25L back in.

Does the engine have to be idling after the 60 seconds at 2K RPM to get more fluid in?

EDIT: I was able to get an addition liter in for 5.25L total with the engine idling.
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Last edited by Townending; 04-29-2017 at 01:56 AM.
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      04-29-2017, 11:03 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Townending View Post
In the process of doing this right now. I drained roughly 5.5L (Also doing a filter swap so the pan came down), but I'm only able to get 4.25L back in.

Does the engine have to be idling after the 60 seconds at 2K RPM to get more fluid in?

EDIT: I was able to get an addition liter in for 5.25L total with the engine idling.
Yep, you figured it out it has to be idling. Did you change both the suction filter and the side filter? Looking to order supplies soon and just want to make sure 6L will be enough to cover it.
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      04-30-2017, 10:54 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3MPH1S View Post
Yep, you figured it out it has to be idling. Did you change both the suction filter and the side filter? Looking to order supplies soon and just want to make sure 6L will be enough to cover it.
I ended up letting the car sit overnight and double checked the fluid level in the morning. I was able to get in yet another 0.5L for a total of 5.75L.

I only swapped the suction filter this time around. I plan to do the side filter at the next fluid change.

6L should be enough, but next time I do this I'll probably order 7L just incase I spill some while trying to fill it.
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      05-02-2017, 05:57 PM   #168
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Okay...

So just got quoted $1200 in labor to do a DCT service, PLUS $630 in parts.

They have the DCT service kit @ ECStuning for $272 + $170 for the DCT oil pan. That's $342 for parts.

What SHOULD labor be? I would say no more than 3hrs...maybe aside from letting 6L of oil drain.

Figured this should be a $6-700 job from a shop. Not $1900.
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      05-02-2017, 06:24 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noremaC View Post
Okay...

So just got quoted $1200 in labor to do a DCT service, PLUS $630 in parts.

They have the DCT service kit @ ECStuning for $272 + $170 for the DCT oil pan. That's $342 for parts.

What SHOULD labor be? I would say no more than 3hrs...maybe aside from letting 6L of oil drain.

Figured this should be a $6-700 job from a shop. Not $1900.

Even at $200/hr that is 6 hours of work, which is absurd. Find another shop.

Why are you replacing the pan? Is it cracked or something?
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      05-03-2017, 09:56 AM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Even at $200/hr that is 6 hours of work, which is absurd. Find another shop.

Why are you replacing the pan? Is it cracked or something?
No, just figured it was a wearable part. If not, I have no issue reusing a perfectly good oil pan.

Their rate is $100/hr. Why would ANYONE quote 12hrs on that job? Maybe they think they need to drop the transmission?

EDIT: apparently to replace the Mecatronic Unit gasket cover (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/28607842856/), they have to drop the transmission.

Has anyone replaced or needed to replace this piece?
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      05-03-2017, 11:03 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noremaC View Post
No, just figured it was a wearable part. If not, I have no issue reusing a perfectly good oil pan.

Their rate is $100/hr. Why would ANYONE quote 12hrs on that job? Maybe they think they need to drop the transmission?

EDIT: apparently to replace the Mecatronic Unit gasket cover (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/28607842856/), they have to drop the transmission.

Has anyone replaced or needed to replace this piece?

If the pan is fine, leave it be. Same for the gasket. There's a fine line between preventative maintenance and wasting money....

IF the gasket leaks, replace it then. It may never leak.
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      05-03-2017, 11:15 AM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
If the pan is fine, leave it be. Same for the gasket. There's a fine line between preventative maintenance and wasting money....

IF the gasket leaks, replace it then. It may never leak.
Little dampness on the pan. On the opposite side of the gasket. Not going to worry about that unless it's leaking directly from the gasket.

I'm sure it's out there...any estimate of time to do fluid flush, change filters? Just the basic DCT service.
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      05-03-2017, 04:38 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noremaC View Post
Little dampness on the pan. On the opposite side of the gasket. Not going to worry about that unless it's leaking directly from the gasket.

I'm sure it's out there...any estimate of time to do fluid flush, change filters? Just the basic DCT service.

I dunno, maybe 1-1.5 hours?
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      05-04-2017, 11:13 AM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noremaC View Post
No, just figured it was a wearable part. If not, I have no issue reusing a perfectly good oil pan.

Their rate is $100/hr. Why would ANYONE quote 12hrs on that job? Maybe they think they need to drop the transmission?

EDIT: apparently to replace the Mecatronic Unit gasket cover (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/28607842856/), they have to drop the transmission.

Has anyone replaced or needed to replace this piece?
We replace the mechatronics cover gaskets semi regularly, it's not necessary to drop the trans to change it with the right tools, although I believe the book calls for it.
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      05-04-2017, 01:53 PM   #175
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I have done it once on friend's and will do mine sometime soon. If you don't care much about bolt torque, it is OK. There is not enough room for the upper screws to be torqued (or I don't have a wrench that could fit in there).
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      05-04-2017, 06:01 PM   #176
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FYI for anyone who is changing theirs soon: I have two unopened bottles of Motul's fluid available.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=21655904
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