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| 07-22-2012, 03:30 PM | #1 |
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M3 Correction..... needs better results
I have a Jet Back M3..... paint has some swirls pitts ect. I visited a local detail supply store. The rep inspected my car and recommended the following:
Wash Clay Bar Microfiber wipe off Usings a Porter Cable 5" Lake Country Orange with Meguiars Ultimate Compound on speed 5 Microfiber wipe off Lake County Red with Meguiars Ultimate Polish on speed 4 Micofiber wipe off Glanz Wax applied with microfiber applicator Microfiber wipe off  The results were not to my expectations. I feel the Ultimate compound did not cut as well as I was hoping for. It was obviously better then what I had so I continued with the rest of the steps. The polish was very difficult to wipe off. I had to spray the surface with water a few times to remove the product. The wax went on and off with no issues. The results left hazy light swirls only visble in direct sunlight. They are from one of the products. I offten found my towel wipes reappearing in the finish. I tried giving it another wash today to see if the results would improve. The hazing was still there and I found the water spots even more difficult to remove. Any other suggetions or products to try?    UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!! As I had menchioned in a post, the first combo of products didnt work so well for me. I gave the car a wash in Dawn soap to remove everything. Here a photo with a lamp on the hood.  You can clearly still see swirls. My hood is pretty pitted. Jet black is weird, its like a really hard clear coat, but a really soft undercoat, so it pits easly but swirls are hard to remove. So I tried the Ultimate compound with the Meg Microfiber pad, then used the Menzerna 2500 with the LC Orange pad, then the Menzerna 4500 with the black pad. I really love the Menzerna Products, they wipe off really easy, and make the color really pop. Heres the same spot after all 3 stages.  I then waxed the whole car with the 1Z again but applied with with the LC red pad on like 2 on the PC. I didnt get a chance to take a bunch of pics in the sunlight kinda be busy changing the evaporator lol...        Last edited by Mbauer; 07-25-2012 at 08:51 AM.. |
| 07-22-2012, 04:14 PM | #3 |
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Martin will definitely know what to do. But as a quick tip, make sure ur using the right technique with the porter cable. This means pressing down level with the surface with about 12-15 lbs of force when using the orange pad with compound. Make sure the pad is spinning. Also, the common mistake I have is I go to fast on each pass. Three slow an steady passes with the right technique should show a significant difference.
Consult Martin first. Because its always good to start with the least aggressive product for the job.
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| 07-22-2012, 07:43 PM | #4 |
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first you need to strip off the wax you just applied with something like the chemical guys citrus wash. (not sure how I feel about mixing in dawn soap to strip off protectant) You also need a compound with more cut, something of a Meguiars 105 nature. Black Paint is tough to work on. A lot of "paint correction" is trial and error as every paint is different. With a porter cable it is going to take TIME to get decent results regardless of your product. Also may need to go with a more aggressive cutting pad ( Lake Country Cyan Hydro Tech pads or the Flat foam yellow cut pads by LC. Another thing to look into may be the Meguiar's Microfiber cut pads with the D300 compound. Then follow up with a finishing polish like the Meguiars 205 or a Menzerna Super Finish (203). These combos also seem to work faster with the Griots Garage 6" DA polisher however I have seen people get good results with the PC. After product is spread apply pressure but still allowing the PC to spin (put a black marker on the yellow backing plate so you can see if it is still spinning or not). Do let up on the pressure on your final passes once you see the compound start to break down (transparent look). then also to save some product spray some water onto your compounded area and rework in the compound again as this will reactivate what is already on the paint, plus giving you more working time to get more results.
The swirls are going to be your biggest battle as this will take time. The compound will be your best friend on this aspect and the finishing polish will be to get rid of the haze. That being said.... this can become a very spendy process playing around with products so I would not get a Lot of a product until you find the right combo for YOUR specific car. Also remember, black shows EVERYTHING so it is very easy to put back scratches and swirls into the paint right after a correction process. Be sure you have microfiber towels that are fresh and do not apply pressure as you will quickly mar the paint with a simple swipe. (the lovely perks of owning a black car) BMW has pretty hard paint so it will again, take time. How much time did you spend on each section and how are you breaking it up? I would do no more than a 2x2 area and you may even break it into a smaller work section depending on results. *note* try doing this process with the products you have before buying others. I cannot stress the amount of patience and time it will take but done properly, you should get results
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Last edited by mpower4life; 07-22-2012 at 07:49 PM.. Reason: adding |
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| 07-22-2012, 08:29 PM | #5 |
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Yea I tried the process again in a test area and tried a IPA wipe as well. Same results. I found some pictures of another detail on a Jet Black 645. They got good results with the D300 with microfiber pad, but finished it with Sonax cleaner wax with the CL black pad. Should I still apply Glanz 1z after the cleaner wax?
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| 07-22-2012, 10:30 PM | #6 |
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There's something off in your workflow. If you'd like, you can stop by our shop, show me your exact process, and I can help fix whatever issues you're having. PM me if you'd like.
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| 07-23-2012, 01:03 PM | #7 |
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there is not an exact product that will always work for any situation. Every car's paint is different and needs test spots to lock in the proper process that will work for YOUR PAINT. BMW has hard paint. You need a gritty, heavier cutting compound to get those defects out.
However, I can attest to the meguiar's microfiber system. (look up the Kevin Brown method) this will give you a wealth of knowledge on the process of using a DA polisher at top performance how long are you spending on your compounding step on each section? Also, the wax has nothing to do with what you are seeing in your paint.
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Last edited by mpower4life; 07-23-2012 at 01:09 PM.. Reason: adding |
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| 07-23-2012, 01:13 PM | #8 |
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| 07-23-2012, 03:27 PM | #9 | |
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| 07-23-2012, 06:24 PM | #10 |
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Nice work! Having a Jet Black car myself, it takes a little patience to get the results you want. But nevertheless, when it comes out nice, black is hard to beat as an aesthetically pleasing color.
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| 07-25-2012, 01:20 PM | #13 |
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I also use a PCXP when I polish/jewel the paint on my AW coupe. When I first acquired the polisher, I didn't research the internet much, and I bought some pads that were simply too large for the PC to be effective (Adam's pads I believe). Later I learned from detailing forum that you really want to go with 5 inch pad if you don't want to waste time and polish all day for minimal result. Now I use chemical guys optical fiber pads, and I also use a heavier counter weight for less vibration.
I also use Menzerna super intensive polish and super finish with great results, your car looks great now after the polish! hope this helps! Last edited by Leonardo629; 07-25-2012 at 01:26 PM.. |
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| 07-25-2012, 03:01 PM | #15 | |
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| 07-25-2012, 03:10 PM | #16 |
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The Meguiars UC works well with BMW paint from my experience.
Looks like you used a red pad with the polish though....I think a LC white pad would have made the difference. Overall I don't think you need to buy anymore products. Just work with what you have and take the tips from the others on technique. |
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much better results! glad to see you got a system that works for you!
