new brake pads Q&A

[lucid]

Originally Posted by syncros

Thanks Lucid.
For a intermediate driver who will start this year to run r-comp would you recommand XP10 before XP12? What differences have you found between XP10 and XP12?

Looking forward to your post on Limerock...

Thanks, Vince

XP12 has more bite, but I didn't have trouble modulating it. You would be fine with either I think. I got XP12s mainly because of the temperature issues I was having at the Glen; they can operate at higher temps than the XP10s. Measuring rotor temps and having an objective sense of where things are might help you make the choice. HT10s I used at the Glen scored both rotors deeply in several locations. After a day with the XP12s, those grooves are smoothed out, so they can grind things down. Although the wear with XP12s is even, which is a good thing, it is somewhat visible after one track day. So, I guess that is the trade-off between a more aggresive pad like the XP12 and RS19/XP10 (fade resistance and bite vs rotor wear). My 2 cents...I know there are other people on this forum who have used XP12s, so maybe they can chime in as well.

[Subw00er]

Ya, so there are always tradeoffs. I think that if you are not a super hard braker, go with the xp10. I used them for two seasons (note on my z06, not m3), and they were great. I never really felt like I needed the xp12, but I am not hard on brakes and would occasionally take a cool down lap mid-session just to regroup.

Lucid, thats cool the carbotechs smoothed your pads out for you. I guess it makes sense though that the wear is visible.. it was only touching half the rotor surface most of the time!

BTW, I never have actually worn a rotor down, they always spidered and needed replacement far before they wore through.

[lucid]

Originally Posted by Subw00er

BTW, I never have actually worn a rotor down, they always spidered and needed replacement far before they wore through.

Although there are no real "cracks", there is plenty of spidering on my front rotors. They are done...

[M3V8Driver]

WHO has the best price for the RS19s? Turner and German Performance are the same. Anybody else? They are starting to become less rare now that all the shops are beginning to get them in again.

[xrayos]

I got mine for a great price at import replacement parts. Just under $700 shipped. Ask for Mike.

[attila]

My Carbotech XP-10's has no place for the wear sensors?? What is the case with the XP-12's?? By the way I dont have sensor on the rear drive side break.

Bedded them this weekend and seems fine. There is some noise when cold but not unbarable. Cleaned the rotors somewhat. When changed the pads, bleeded the breaks I realized how much damage was done by the melted OEM pads. There are tons of deposite on the rotor, and the pads looked like marble and cooked.

How could you remove the metal plate shielding the rear rotors?? Anyone?? I have a feeling that thing just hurts the break cooling.

[M3V8Driver]

Originally Posted by xrayos

I got mine for a great price at import replacement parts. Just under $700 shipped. Ask for Mike.

They don't list them. Are they not http://www.importrp.com?

[von_zoom]

Originally Posted by M3V8Driver

They don't list them. Are they not http://www.importrp.com?

I could not get their site to list them either. Perhaps you have to use the telephone.
vz

[m3larson]

Originally Posted by attila

My Carbotech XP-10's has no place for the wear sensors?? What is the case with the XP-12's?? By the way I dont have sensor on the rear drive side break.

Bedded them this weekend and seems fine. There is some noise when cold but not unbarable. Cleaned the rotors somewhat. When changed the pads, bleeded the breaks I realized how much damage was done by the melted OEM pads. There are tons of deposite on the rotor, and the pads looked like marble and cooked.

How could you remove the metal plate shielding the rear rotors?? Anyone?? I have a feeling that thing just hurts the break cooling.

I just ordered my XP-10's. What did you do with the sensor? Is there a place to hide it? Is you brake light going on?
We should have done a Carbotech group buy.

Also, what is everyone running for brake fluid after bleeding?

[lucid]

Yes, this is a problem with Carbotechs. The bonding material overflows into the contact sensor groove. You don't really want the sensor on when you are at the track anyway. You should know how much pad material you have left. Once the sensor makes contact, the light on the dash comes on, and you need a special tool to reset it and replace the sensor. Just zip tie the the sensor and its cables to your suspension.

[xrayos]

yes, give them a call.


I got mine several weeks back and haven't even installed them yet. Just sitting in the garage. If you need a set before hand then let me know.

Originally Posted by von_zoom

I could not get their site to list them either. Perhaps you have to use the telephone.
vz

[von_zoom]

Originally Posted by lucid

. Just zip tie the the sensor and its cables to your suspension.

That is what I do plus I use electrician tape around the end to make sure that it does not make inadvertant contact with metal.
vz

[attila]

Originally Posted by von_zoom

That is what I do plus I use electrician tape around the end to make sure that it does not make inadvertant contact with metal.
vz

+1

I use Castrol SRF fluid. looks very similar to OEM fluid a little bit lighter in color.

[von_zoom]

Originally Posted by attila

+1

I use Castrol SRF fluid. looks very similar to OEM fluid a little bit lighter in color.

Yo attila - you lost me on this one.
vz

[attila]

Originally Posted by von_zoom

Yo attila - you lost me on this one.
vz

Castrol SRF looks - by color only- similar to the factory break fluid. This is good since a BMW tech will not be able to see you changed your fluid, which potentialy could void the warranty on the breaks.
However it is not easy to see the new fluid when you bleed your breaks.
ATE has blue and gold color fluids so it is easy to see the new fluid comming into the system.
The cold modulation on the XP-10 is not as good as the OEM pads but as soon as there is some heat they work better.

[farbarg]

Originally Posted by attila

Castrol SRF looks - by color only- similar to the factory break fluid. This is good since a BMW tech will not be able to see you changed your fluid, which potentialy could void the warranty on the breaks.
However it is not easy to see the new fluid when you bleed your breaks.
ATE has blue and gold color fluids so it is easy to see the new fluid comming into the system.
The cold modulation on the XP-10 is not as good as the OEM pads but as soon as there is some heat they work better.

So I'm going to have a warrranty problem if I ask my dealer to put motul 600 brake fluid in the system? SRF is way too expensive (and unnecessary) for me.

[attila]

Originally Posted by farbarg

So I'm going to have a warrranty problem if I ask my dealer to put motul 600 brake fluid in the system? SRF is way too expensive (and unnecessary) for me.

Maybe not! I read it here on M3post that dealer may void warranty if you change your break fluid. So I am not planning to tell them.
I got the SRF, not because I need it but was available when others (Motul, Super ATE) were not.

[syncros]

Is the motul 600 the same color as the OEM brake fluid?
I was planning on buy this oil.

Thanks,

[jml]

Originally Posted by farbarg

So I'm going to have a warrranty problem if I ask my dealer to put motul 600 brake fluid in the system? SRF is way too expensive (and unnecessary) for me.

[Not picking on you, but your comment on SRF prompted me to think of this]

I find it funny how many people say that SRF is unnecessary and then are also whistling the merits of an $8K BBK.

SRF is magical. If you are a track rat, instead of flushing 4x per year, you will only need to do it once, and on top of that, probably not heave to bleed the system either.