Technical Help! (Brake, DSC & Shock Indicators On)

[Ro_Ja Boy]

I just walked in the door from 10 1/2 hours of driving from picking up my second E9x M3, this time a 2008 E90 M3. I purchased it from a forum member, paid for it and flew up last night to finally get it. Part of the deal was new summer tires, so instead of having him install them on the 220s, I bought and sent a set of AG M359s to him. He had those installed on Thursday.

He had brought it to my buddy's house earlier this week since he had to unexpectedly go out of town and couldn't meet me last night or today (booked a flight a couple weeks back, so I didn't want to change it either. Also have been traveling every week lately so I wanted to settle down).

My buddy picks me up from the airport last night and we go to his house so I can finally see the car in person. I offered to drive to dinner and on the way back, the DSC and Brake indicators came on (both in amber).

Great...my new to me car and I already have an issue. I start the car this morning to drive home and within an hour or so the lights come back on. When I shut the car off, the picture of the shock shows up on the tachometer screen. When I shut the car off to gas up, the lights (other than the exclamation mark on the tach screen) go away until about 150 miles later when they come back on.

The guy I bought the car from has been helpful with everything thus far and am not trying to point fingers at all. Just posting facts so that perhaps I'm missing something that could be the issue. Am hoping it is something simple such as a wheel speed sensor or something similar that could have gotten messed up during the wheel/tire install this past week.

Any help before I take it to the stealership or try to find a local shop?

Thanks in advance!

Bonus pic from my drive home:

[edwinm3]

Sounds like it could be the pressure sensor on the brake master cylinder, My old 08 had that same problem. Lights would come on, shut it off and lights would be off but they would come back on after a few miles. Have it scanned and see what it says.
It usually gets messed up by spilling fluid on it, it sits in a bad spot so if one is flushing the brakes and spill some fluid, it will drip right on the sensor messing it up.

[Ro_Ja Boy]

Just talked to a buddy and believe it could be a wheel speed sensor. The cruise control would shut off when the lights would come on as well.

I'll try to get it scanned sooner than later.

[edwinm3]

Just edited my post to add reason why this happens...yeah scan it first.

[edwinm3]

Originally Posted by Ro_Ja Boy

Just talked to a buddy and believe it could be a wheel speed sensor. The cruise control would shut off when the lights would come on as well.

I'll try to get it scanned sooner than later.

Hope you get it fixed soon Good luck and keep us posted pls

[Ro_Ja Boy]

Because the codes go away (other than the EDC one), there were no existing codes when I had it run. Going to try the left rear wheel speed sensor.

[ThatGuyMikee]

Steering wheel angle sensor, take it out, cleAn it and reset it by turning the wheel full lock left , full lock right, back to center, theirs a how to in the e90 post somewhere , easy way to find out if its that is starting the car, turn wheel full lock both way and back to center, usually all the lights clear when u start driving and comes back on

[Ro_Ja Boy]

Thanks. I'll give that a try first thing in the AM. Otherwise, the left rear wheel speed sensor is being offered.

Thanks everyone

[Ro_Ja Boy]

Installed a new wheel speed sensor. The shock warning indicator still shows each time I shut the car off. Would that clear automatically if fixed?

Thanks in advance!

[Longbow64]

Could be the wheel bearing.

[Ro_Ja Boy]

The two codes showing are EDC: 5FE1 and DSC: 5E46

Any help based on that info? Thanks

[jcolley]

Originally Posted by Ro_Ja Boy

The two codes showing are EDC: 5FE1 and DSC: 5E46

Any help based on that info? Thanks

Codes tell all on these cars, there are so many things that can cause similar indications it's hard to say anything without them.

So, based on the two you posted:



Possible faulty steering angle sensor,but I would have the battery and alternator voltage checked first just to rule that out first. The modules on these cars are very susceptible to low voltage faults. That would explain the CAN faults.

Failing that, the SZL module has a few test functions in ISTA that can be performed. It may be as simple as needing a calibration.

[Ro_Ja Boy]

Battery is ok with 12.15 to 12.3 volts. I think that's the bad news. Going to try to find someone to hook the car up and get this figured out.

[Ro_Ja Boy]

Tried disconnecting the battery and then doing the full lock recalibration of the wheel speed sensor with no luck as well. Not sure I disconnected long enough as the warning didn't go away, but am going to take it to an Indy shop to get the codes run.

[KrazyM3]

Did you actually get the battery tested? This happened to me, my battery was on its way out even though it would start my car normally. Replaced the battery and reset the steering angle, has not been back since.

[Ro_Ja Boy]

I tested the voltage of the battery and it seems fine although the car is 6 years old and would assume replacement would be near.

[quiettfxgt]

The cruise control would shut off when the lights would come on as well.

[Ro_Ja Boy]

That's what I said. :P

[joe@trinityautosport]

Originally Posted by Ro_Ja Boy

Just talked to a buddy and believe it could be a wheel speed sensor. The cruise control would shut off when the lights would come on as well.

I'll try to get it scanned sooner than later.

I believe you are right.

I had the SAME issue and it was the right rear wheel sensor.

[Ro_Ja Boy]

It wasn't it. Replaced that this past weekend.

[KrazyM3]

Originally Posted by Ro_Ja Boy

I tested the voltage of the battery and it seems fine although the car is 6 years old and would assume replacement would be near.

What did you use to test it? a voltmeter? If so that will not tell you if the battery is weak, low, needs charging etc. You really need to use a battery tester and any location like auto zone or O' Reilly will do it for you for free.

Have the battery checked out first, and then get the codes scan hopefully we can help you clear this mess up without throwing random parts at it.

[Ro_Ja Boy]

Yea...used a voltmeter. I'll get this figured out sooner than later.